Class 20s - A Straw Poll

Railwaymaniac

Western Thunderer
All;

Deal is that I am shortly to go buy a Class 20, and quite possibly paint it blue . . . :)

Question is :- Should I buy a Heljan because it is the cheaper, ready-to-run option?
Or should I avoid Heljan like the plague because of the 'split bearings' problem????

Yes, I know that you can (still) get spares from the folks in Oxford, but what happens when they run out of the things . . .
Is my concern justified, or am I being over-paranoid about ending up with a very expensive scrap-line?????

Ian
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
...Yes, I know that you can (still) get spares from the folks in Oxford, but what happens when they run out of the things . . .
Is my concern justified, or am I being over-paranoid about ending up with a very expensive scrap-line?????

Ian, I would be fairly confident that - should the split gear problem persist - someone will be able to offer a suitable replacement component.

On the other hand I hope to build up stock for a scrap yard, so would be most happy to waiver the usual waste disposal charges on any non-working hulks :)
 

Ian G

Western Thunderer
It all depends on if you want to build one Ian, and as your standards are high, it may be cheaper to buy one and detail it with all the time off you get from the local authority :p

Ian
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Ooh - Detailing? Could anyone recommend please a good link to either a write-up of the exercise for this loco, or a supplier of upgrade parts? (edit: I've found Brian Daniels's review 'elsewhere')

For another of my boxed strategic reserve fleet ( :rolleyes: ) I've just stumbled across a terrific write-up by David Smith for detailing the Charlie Cheng 8F http://www.davidlosmith.co.uk/LMS_8F.htm
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
This is not a fishing exercise or a comparison attempt at all as far as I know there are 3 suppliers Heljan, PMP and Tower. The main differences are starting with the most difficult PMP the kit is a bugger to get right the nose needs to be cut and profiled correctly to look right the Heljan offering has the nose raked back at the incorrect angle not noticeable really but for nit pickers a big no no, the Tower example prob the best offering in Pewter, my own views and not to start a war on what looks best or is correct
 

marsa69

Western Thunderer
Tower don't do them anymore. I only got my Tower kit from the GoG website. What about JLTRT?
 

Railwaymaniac

Western Thunderer
Tower don't do them anymore. I only got my Tower kit from the GoG website. What about JLTRT?
Yes, I was thinking of building the JLTRT offering. (and *damn* but I wish I could get hold of a Tower kit :'( )

But the JLTRT is at least £150 more expensive than the HJ, after you buy the motor gears and wheels, although I do get the option of the headcode box version.

Hence the original question. To my mind the HJ is cheaper but comes with the disc headcode arrangement and a massive risk in the gears.
Oh, and wasn't there an article in the Gauge 0 Guild mag about the wheels on HJ locos?

I'm fishing for your thoughts here, folks, before I disturb the moths . . .

Ian
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Oh, and wasn't there an article in the Gauge 0 Guild mag about the wheels on HJ locos?
Yes there was but it related to the reluctance of HJ Hymek and Type 4 wheel sets to pass through O-MF (31.5mm gauge) without modification. The HJ wheel profile is most kindly described as 'non-standard'. I believe you're OK if you stick with O-FS.
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Yes there was but it related to the reluctance of HJ Hymek and Type 4 wheel sets to pass through O-MF (31.5mm gauge) without modification. The HJ wheel profile is most kindly described as 'non-standard'. I believe you're OK if you stick with O-FS.

Go scale7, it's easy to reprofile the wheels. :)
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Yes there was but it related to the reluctance of HJ Hymek and Type 4 wheel sets to pass through O-MF (31.5mm gauge) without modification. The HJ wheel profile is most kindly described as 'non-standard'. I believe you're OK if you stick with O-FS.

In fact, the 20 wheelsets will go through 31.5mm without reprofiling.

Richard
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Dave, I will post pictures on my workbench thread the next time I get the chance to use the lathe. In answer to your question, the wheels easily slide off the axles for reprofiling and the axles are plenty long enough for the gauge widening. :thumbs:
 

Railwaymaniac

Western Thunderer
Dare I mention that there is another possibility for a Class 20 kit?

Model Express do one. They don't seem to have a sensible website, so I guess I wait until I see them at an exhibition before I can check this out properly.
But I think the basic body is about £90 - almost cheap enough to throw away if necessary, and certainly cheap enough to hack around if that's what it takes.

That said, the thought did occur to me that a JLTRT one (powered) with a Model Express one (unpowered) might just make a cost-effective pairing?

Ian
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
If you've got £90 to throw away, throw it my way :)

The model express will end up costing you more in time, effort and hard cash in the long run to get to a good standard.

I've gone Hejan. It's a reasonable representation of a class 20 and it runs out of the box for £350. That's a bargain.
 

marsa69

Western Thunderer
£337.50 each if you buy two together from them :thumbs:

It depends if Ian prefers to modify RTR or would like a kit instead? I had thought of the unpowered Model Express option for my weedkilling train. Heljan 20 pulling from the front with a cosmetic ME one at the rear,

Mark
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
If you've got £90 to throw away, throw it my way :)

The model express will end up costing you more in time, effort and hard cash in the long run to get to a good standard.
The Model Express one is a totally new tooling compared to the rest of the range & didn't look too bad to me at Telford, so I would have a look before dismissing it as it may be OK as an non-powered second Class 20;)

I do agree with Phil though with regard to Heljan v JLTRT.......at £350 for a Heljan it would not be a difficult choice for me!
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
It's the gears on the axles that might split; but it seems to be a bit hit'n'miss whether it happens or not; I've not had any trouble with my HJ locos but then they don't do much mileage. Someone with a Garden Line might think otherwise - but I think I'm right in saying that Phill (Withercombe Branch :bowdown: )hasn't had much trouble either.?
There are some I've heard of who've had their HJ31 arrive with all sorts of bits loose or broken; again mine was just fine - I think a lot of trouble is down to the Post system - if you can pick up your loco direct from a Trader there seems to be less chance of damage.
Jordan is indeed correct:thumbs:.......I have four Heljan's (3 Hymeks & a 47) & I have replaced one gear in one loco after many miles & quite a few years of use, the one offending gear was also replaced free of charge by Howes.
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Dave, I will post pictures on my workbench thread the next time I get the chance to use the lathe. In answer to your question, the wheels easily slide off the axles for reprofiling and the axles are plenty long enough for the gauge widening.
Thanks. I would appreciate that. I didn't know if removing wheels caused issues with the insulation or if the axles would be too short for reliable refitting.

Dave
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Thanks. I would appreciate that. I didn't know if removing wheels caused issues with the insulation or if the axles would be too short for reliable refitting.

Dave
The wheels almost fall off. It's a very easy upgrade. It's so easy that I've no concerns to recommend anyone to S7. The sooner the better so you don't have to redo too much track, :thumbs:
 

40126

Western Thunderer
Sorry to hijack your thread.. Just looking at Moore Street TMD on Youtube & found this....


Steve :cool:
 
Top