7mm F*** Parkinson's - Occasional 7mm Workbench

[Matt.S.]

I think that's called "doing a Dunhill". Looks like a box full of good intentions.

 

[AJC]

Does a quick search for Dapol Austerity prices, raises eyebrow, closes window, checks the Slater's website for wheel prices, inhales, sharply... James, there comes a time when you really have to wonder whether it's worth the bother and this, I suggest, really is it.

Adam

 

[76043]

I'm waiting for the lovely BR high bunker Dapol Austerity to hit the £150 mark in the sales as per all my previous Dapol O gauge purchases, then bingo! Job done.

Building a layout is difficult enough as it is timewise, any shortcuts to time are always gratefully received by myself.
Tony

 

[simond]

Good box!

Probably won’t fit the completed model…

 

[James]

Probably won’t fit the completed model…

Even the etches don't fit in the box properly!

 

[paulc]

Even the etches don't fit in the box properly!

He's gonna need a bigger box .

 

[James]

Does a quick search for Dapol Austerity prices, raises eyebrow, closes window, checks the Slater's website for wheel prices, inhales, sharply... James, there comes a time when you really have to wonder whether it's worth the bother and this, I suggest, really is it.

Adam

I can see what you mean, but I m going to give this one a go it's going to be Stewart & Lloyds' JUNO
- I know the Dapol model is really nice but they're not quite as rugged as kit/scratch built models. And I've wanted to build JUNO for quite a long time now. Though when it comes to things like BR mineral wagons and other stands wagon types buying Dapol is the plan.

Sometimes kit bashed models have an appeal all their own - like the Kitmaster/Airfix based Austerity you built some years back - I really liked that one

Kit cost is now £45 after partial refund after id spotted one set of coupling rods are missing - I already have a set of milled rods in stock

In this issue of MORRILL there's an excellent 7mm scale drawing by Don Townsley, who's quite the authority on these locos -



Comparing the etches with the drawing things aren't as bad as the might imagine. The oddest thing is the footplate is about 2mm or so too short despite the cab and saddle tank/boiler being the correct lengths. A new footplate will solve this.

The cab is slightly too wide; the curve around the top of the front and rear sheets too tight but the saving grace is that the eaves are in the right place so correcting this should be very straightforward.

The castings upon first glance looks actually quite decent.

I'm going to build my 50550 first however, it's one my favourite classes and perfect for an ironstone project.

 

[James]

First Iron Ore Tippler just about ready for painting. It's from the Peco kit but with few extras. The brake lever guards are Ambis but the levers are as supplied as they're really rather nice and fine. Brass strip was used for the tie bar (which need tidying at the ends) and brake safety loops.

The mouldings are really nice but the body sides being in multiple pieces seems a bit of a faff! It all goes together very well.

And it started raining as I was taking the photo!

 

[James]

Now in primer! Though it's also a top coat for the body in this case.

Oddly this particular primer has reacted with some of the black plastic Peco use; it'll actually help add texture to the chassis.

 

[simond]

That’s curious, James, but it seems to have given a textured finish to the axleguard tie rod too.

Did it go on a little too thick?
Or was the model still damp?

I think it’ll probably help from a texture POV but it would be good to understand why it happened.

 

[James]

The model was warm and dry, nice thin coats of primer. The paint on the body is beautifully smooth.

It's a bit of an odd one, isn't it?!

 

[simond]

Curious, most curious…

 

[spikey faz]

Not sure what's caused the paint reaction on the underframe, but I use Halfords car spray primer with no problems.

As an aside I use red oxide primer as opposed to grey. The red oxide works well as a basis for a rusty finish, if you happen to like a weathered look to your wagon.

Mike

 

[James]

Not sure what's caused the paint reaction on the underframe, but I use Halfords car spray primer with no problems.

As an aside I use red oxide primer as opposed to grey. The red oxide works well as a basis for a rusty finish, if you happen to like a weathered look to your wagon.

Mike

I use red oxide for fitted wagons for recently painted wagons it's spot on. This ABS wagon was a bit tatty when I bought it but stripped and sprayed with red oxide primer it looks pretty smart



Halfords primer hasn't seemed as good as it used to be since they relaunched the paint range.

 

[James]

The tippler's underframe has its base cost of filth and transfers applied.

These are the Peco supplied Presfix transfers; bearing in mind this kit was purchased a few months back I do wonder how long Peco have had them in stock!



It must be thirty years since the PC Models transfers passed to the HMRC?

 

[James]

Getting there.

 

[Dog Star]

Please tell us how you produced the appearance of rusted steel on the inside of the wagon body.

 

[James]

Please tell us how you produced the appearance of rusted steel on the inside of the wagon body.

It's a mix of Humbrol Matt Orange and Matt Leather with a dash of Metalcote Gunmetal which I airbrushed over the interior

 

[James]

I've finally got round to fitting the buffer heads and couplings. I replaced the supplied plastic coupling hooks with Ambis ones, the shank being shortened and a 1mm hole drilled to match the original.

 

[James]

Trip to the in-laws this morning, getting them trained nicely!