First Scale7 layout

[iain_r]

Hi,

I have been a OO modeller for most of my life & have tried to make this look as good as I feel possible.
In order to improve the appearance, I re-space sleepers & chop pointwork about to narrow the 6' to something more realistic.
The next step seemed to be P4, but this involved a lot of work on my stock, so a smaller project may have been more appropriate because it involves an achievable amount of work. I also like the look & feel of O gauge & because of its size & cost, this also lends itself to smaller layouts. I thought that S7 would be a nice blend of these 2, so decided to model in this scale.
I have never built a turnout or sprung axles before.
I have 9' x 1'6" to play with & intend to start with a tuning fork layout. I have a Dapol LMS Jinty, class 08 & LT Pannier in O gauge to convert. I also have a Heljan class 37 & will not be able to resist a class 50 when they arrive.
I figured a small goods/coal depot will be flexible enough that I could run any of these on just by changing the stock & maybe 1-2 buildings.
So far, I have some laser cut baseboards & track components on order. I have a Heljan OAA wagon which I have re-gauged to S7. The wheels look quite fine & the flanges seem to be slimmer than my check rail clearance gauge so I think I may get away with these but have some Slater's S7 wheels just in case they don't. It already had sprung wheels/w irons, which I was quite pleased about. I have also part-built a Slater's wagon, with S7 wheelsets & sprung W irons.

I was a bit worried about building pointwork but a chat with some Scale7 group members at Scaleforum recently has made me feel a bit more comfortable with this.

 

[BrushType4]

Hi Iain, Welcome to the dark side! Plenty of S7 expertise on this forum so I'm sure if you have any questions, someone will know the answer.

Not sure where you are, but there is a dedicated S7 Show this weekend in Somerset if thats of interest.

Looking forward to seeing your layout build.

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Hi,

I have been a OO modeller for most of my life & have tried to make this look as good as I feel possible.
In order to improve the appearance, I re-space sleepers & chop pointwork about to narrow the 6' to something more realistic.
The next step seemed to be P4, but this involved a lot of work on my stock, so a smaller project may have been more appropriate because it involves an achievable amount of work. I also like the look & feel of O gauge & because of its size & cost, this also lends itself to smaller layouts. I thought that S7 would be a nice blend of these 2, so decided to model in this scale.
I have never built a turnout or sprung axles before.
I have 9' x 1'6" to play with & intend to start with a tuning fork layout. I have a Dapol LMS Jinty, class 08 & LT Pannier in O gauge to convert. I also have a Heljan class 37 & will not be able to resist a class 50 when they arrive.
I figured a small goods/coal depot will be flexible enough that I could run any of these on just by changing the stock & maybe 1-2 buildings.
So far, I have some laser cut baseboards & track components on order. I have a Heljan OAA wagon which I have re-gauged to S7. The wheels look quite fine & the flanges seem to be slimmer than my check rail clearance gauge so I think I may get away with these but have some Slater's S7 wheels just in case they don't. It already had sprung wheels/w irons, which I was quite pleased about. I have also part-built a Slater's wagon, with S7 wheelsets & sprung W irons.

I was a bit worried about building pointwork but a chat with some Scale7 group members at Scaleforum recently has made me feel a bit more comfortable with this.

Welcome Iain,

When I moved from 4mm scale to 7, some years ago now, I tried finestandard O but very quickly realised that S7 was no more difficult and much more satisfying. I have not deviated from that opinion.

Track building is very satisfying and not difficult if you have the correct gauges, no need to measure to the nearest thou, as the gauges do it all for you. Likewise wheels, the correct profile are best but Slaters and similar finestandard ones with the b-b gauge set to 31.2-3 work OK but appearance will benefit from reducing the tread width. If you can spring the wheels rather than just compensate them you will find stock just glides over the crossings with a satisfying prototypical motion, magic!

The S7 group supply correct pattern wheels for diesels as well as steam and are very open, as we are on here, if you need help or advice.

Ian.

 

[iain_r]

Hi Iain, Welcome to the dark side! Plenty of S7 expertise on this forum so I'm sure if you have any questions, someone will know the answer.

Not sure where you are, but there is a dedicated S7 Show this weekend in Somerset if thats of interest.

Looking forward to seeing your layout build.

I am within walking distance of this weekend's GETS show in Milton Keynes & will be on the DOGA stand at this show for both days, so unfortunately can't make it to Somerset this weekend.
(Location now added to my signature).

 

[iain_r]

Track building is very satisfying and not difficult if you have the correct gauges, no need to measure to the nearest thou, as the gauges do it all for you. Likewise wheels, the correct profile are best but Slaters and similar finestandard ones with the b-b gauge set to 31.2-3 work OK but appearance will benefit from reducing the tread width. If you can spring the wheels rather than just compensate them you will find stock just glides over the crossings with a satisfying prototypical motion, magic!

The S7 group supply correct pattern wheels for diesels as well as steam and are very open, as we are on here, if you need help or advice.

Ian.

Hi Ian,

I joined the Scale7Group a couple of years ago & bought a pack containing go & no go b2b gauges, a track gauge, a 3 point tool & a check rail clearance gauge.
I also bought a set of replacement Jinty wheels. I tried fitting them to my Dapol Jinty last week, but the axles fatter than the Dapol ones & won't fit through the bushes.
You have also mentioned suspension. I have a couple of W iron kits but I guess these are compensation & proper suspension is something else?

I am from a OO background where even re-wheeling is an option (although correcting manufacturer's inconsistent b2b's seems to be becoming a necessity).
I am looking forward to the challenge though.

Regarding my locos: will I need to start replacing chassis/bogies or will re-wheeling usually suffice?

 

[BrushType4]

Hi Ian,

I joined the Scale7Group a couple of years ago & bought a pack containing go & no go b2b gauges, a track gauge, a 3 point tool & a check rail clearance gauge.
I also bought a set of replacement Jinty wheels. I tried fitting them to my Dapol Jinty last week, but the axles fatter than the Dapol ones & won't fit through the bushes.
You have also mentioned suspension. I have a couple of W iron kits but I guess these are compensation & proper suspension is something else?

I am from a OO background where even re-wheeling is an option (although correcting manufacturer's inconsistent b2b's seems to be becoming a necessity).
I am looking forward to the challenge though.

Regarding my locos: will I need to start replacing chassis/bogies or will re-wheeling usually suffice?

@eastsidepilot is your man for reprofiling locos and there are tools available if you have access to a lathe. I did my own Heljan diesels with help from a member of the forum. Its quite straight forward, though it does get a little complex when motion is involved.

Wagons and other rolling stock is more straight forward and usually someone will have already come up with a process for any RTR stock. Some is easier than others, but more and more manufactures are keeping S7 in mind when designing.

 

[Wagonman]

Hi Iain. Welcome to the world of Scale7. In your OP you mentioned "getting away with it" in regard to wheel standards etc – I would personally recommend sticking to the rules, at least to start with, if only to avoid expensive disappointments! Colin at East Side Pilot can do wonders with a lathe.

For wagon springing I recommend the Bill Bedford/Mousa or the Exactoscale guitar string varieties as they are easy to use and cater for different prototype W-iron designs. There is a lack of variety in axle box/spring castings available though this is improving thanks to (3D printing – recycling cast w-irons is tedious, especially in 7mm scale!

For track making there's a wide variety of templates available, or you can cook your own with Templot. Likewise there are ready made crossing Vs and point blades still available from C&L (I think) and all manner of extra special chairs are coming through from the 3D printers such as 'Off the Rails' (Dave Rayner). Now that Ian Norman has taken over the Newsletter I might even have time to build a bit of track for myself and join you on your voyage of discovery.

Happy sailing.


Richard

 

[Scale7JB]

Hi Ian,

As Phil has alluded to above, the RTR locos use completely different wheels and axles to the usual Slaters wheels made for kits.

And so they will need to have the wheels pulled out on the Axles and the tyres re-profiled rather than a straight replacement.

@eastsidepilot is definitely your man though

JB.

 

[Prairie Tank]

Hi Ian,

Welcome to the wonderful, accurate world of Scale 7.

Colin (eastsidepilot) converted both Tim and my 08's and a very fine job he made too!

I have converted several RTR wagons and a guards/brake van to Scale 7, I used slaters Scale 7 wheels and Scale 7 axles, the axles are available through the Scale 7 group.

My lay out is only 11' by 2'6"

John

 

[john lewsey]

Welcome Iain
I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. My first S7 loco has F/S wheels and hasn't any springing and runs OK through pointwork all of the others have had their wheels turned down, they do look better.
John

 

[Crimson Rambler]

Hello Iain

I'm sure you will find S7 modelling to be very satisfying.
Last year I converted a Dapol Jinty to S7 using the appropriate wheels from S7 Stores. Earlier this year it ran on Ellerman Road at the S7 AGM.


The cosmetic plastic frames were prized off the mazak block and 80 thou in the form of two layers of 40 thou plastikard added each side. The origanal bearings were drilled and reamed out to 3/16in diameter and in effect thick washers were soldered to the outside to take up the clearance. Based on previous experience I elected to provide very little sideplay and it ran happily enough through all the points (bar one) and curves on the layout. I was told one point was sharper than the rest so I have no idea if it could have run through it or not.



The two layers of plastikard can be seen along with the Slaters loco springs I added to take up the gap. I remember removing a substantial amount from the backs of the sand boxes to get them back to scale thickness - the frames are a scale 4ft 2.5ins over their outside faces.

Crimson Rambler

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Hi Ian,

I joined the Scale7Group a couple of years ago & bought a pack containing go & no go b2b gauges, a track gauge, a 3 point tool & a check rail clearance gauge.
I also bought a set of replacement Jinty wheels. I tried fitting them to my Dapol Jinty last week, but the axles fatter than the Dapol ones & won't fit through the bushes.
You have also mentioned suspension. I have a couple of W iron kits but I guess these are compensation & proper suspension is something else?

I am from a OO background where even re-wheeling is an option (although correcting manufacturer's inconsistent b2b's seems to be becoming a necessity).
I am looking forward to the challenge though.

Regarding my locos: will I need to start replacing chassis/bogies or will re-wheeling usually suffice?

Hi Iain,

I am an unrepentant scratchbuilder and very infrequent builder of kits so have no experience of converting any of the rtr offerings to S7 and didn't know they used non standard axles! However I do know that it is quite a straightforward job to reprofile wheels. East side pilot of this parish offers a service for those without a lathe and there are countless examples of his work running successfully.

I try always to spring every axle but that is not essential, and rigid locos work just fine as, long as you lay pretty flat track work. As you progress you will find just what satisfy you.

Ian.

 

[pcalkel]

Hi Iain

it was me you spoke to at Scaleforum, just glad I have been a help, any questions just ask

Paul

 

[Lancastrian]

Hi Iain,

Welcome to S7. I am Milton Keynes based, so if I can offer any help or advice, let me know. I am only starting a foray in S7, but have lots of experience building track in various scales/standards.

Ian