Giles' misc. Work bench.
- Thread starter Giles
- Start date
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Thanks for posting Giles. 
Very timely, as I’ve been working on a GWR corrugated hut in Fusion 360….
Whilst the sides and ends will be printed*, I want to make the roof, by overlaying pressed sheets of foil (made in a male/female former, much like yours), to provide suitably thin edges.
*There will be a roof included in the sides/ends print and it’ll be corrugated too, adding support to the foil - the foil itself, is needed to give the prototypical overhang.
I haven’t printed any of it yet, but it’s good to know the technique is sound and I won’t potentially be wasting any time or resin!.
Regards
Dan
Very timely, as I’ve been working on a GWR corrugated hut in Fusion 360….
Whilst the sides and ends will be printed*, I want to make the roof, by overlaying pressed sheets of foil (made in a male/female former, much like yours), to provide suitably thin edges.
*There will be a roof included in the sides/ends print and it’ll be corrugated too, adding support to the foil - the foil itself, is needed to give the prototypical overhang.
I haven’t printed any of it yet, but it’s good to know the technique is sound and I won’t potentially be wasting any time or resin!.
Regards
Dan
Giles
Western Thunderer
Working it flat is proving consistent at any rate... I have all the sheets for the roof. Ideally it would be best to deb them down onto a something like a tile grout maybe, bedding the sheet down with the forming tool, so the sheet is nicely supported on the job.... but we will see.....
Hello Giles
Your method is nearly the same as when I was in the steel works in the 1950s. You mentioned pressing in one go. That was how it was done back then.
You mention 6ft x 2ft 6in. They were used with a 3in corrugation pitch and 2 over lap side by side and a 6in overlap across the ends. This means that looking at a sheeted area each the visible part of each sheet was 5ft 6in X 2ft.
I am certain the width & pitch was standard but different lengths may have been available from other sites.
Thanks for the interesting film and bring back memories.
Regards
Allen
Your method is nearly the same as when I was in the steel works in the 1950s. You mentioned pressing in one go. That was how it was done back then.
You mention 6ft x 2ft 6in. They were used with a 3in corrugation pitch and 2 over lap side by side and a 6in overlap across the ends. This means that looking at a sheeted area each the visible part of each sheet was 5ft 6in X 2ft.
I am certain the width & pitch was standard but different lengths may have been available from other sites.
Thanks for the interesting film and bring back memories.
Regards
Allen
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Sheets were pressed and rolled - see examples below.
Modern production tends to be with rollers set at 90 degrees to these two, producing 'continuous' sheeting which is then cut to length as required.
1840s England:
1940s Australia (note 4 sheets at a time):
Images from CORRUGATED IRON Building on the Frontier by Adam Mornement & Simon Holloway (shown for educational purposes only).
Modern production tends to be with rollers set at 90 degrees to these two, producing 'continuous' sheeting which is then cut to length as required.
1840s England:
1940s Australia (note 4 sheets at a time):
Images from CORRUGATED IRON Building on the Frontier by Adam Mornement & Simon Holloway (shown for educational purposes only).
Dangerous Davies
Western Thunderer
See below a photo of a continuous corrugating mill, as referred to by Osgood, above. This image was taken from the John Lysaght website. Note that at the entry end only the centre is formed and as the strip passes through the rolling stands the number of corrugations increases.
Dave
Dave
Giles
Western Thunderer
All very interesting!
I shall carry on with the thick aluminium foil because I went to trouble to buy it!
Here's the carcass of a 10'x7' shepherds hut in 16mm. The roof will have a 2mm MDF substrate over which the corrugated iron gets laid.
I shall draw up and print the cast-iron wheels.
I shall carry on with the thick aluminium foil because I went to trouble to buy it!
Here's the carcass of a 10'x7' shepherds hut in 16mm. The roof will have a 2mm MDF substrate over which the corrugated iron gets laid.
I shall draw up and print the cast-iron wheels.
Giles
Western Thunderer
Finished with making the corrugated iron, but I need to do the bolts! It turned out relatively easy to do in practice as I bedded it down onto 'Sticks like s***' or 'No Nails' or whatever it is.... which made the job simple, and will help support the corrugations when it fully goes off as well. I now need to sort bolt heads before setting about painting. Window and door are made and will be the last things to fit. I also need to get on with the wheels....
Giles
Western Thunderer
I forgot to say that this was done by using aerosol to lay down some basic rust colours all over, then brushed green over most of the body ( for instance not at the bottom, where rust was creeping up) and then sponged dark rust followed by a mid rust over all rust areas and roof. Everywhere had talc applied generously whilst still wet, waited a few minutes a brushed off again.
By this time most of the green had disappeared, so green was reapplied selectively into grooves quite sparingly, again with talc following.
After thorough brushing off, a (quite heavy) black wash was brushed over the whole thing to tie it all together, which looked good wet, awful half dry, and very nice completely dried.....
By this time most of the green had disappeared, so green was reapplied selectively into grooves quite sparingly, again with talc following.
After thorough brushing off, a (quite heavy) black wash was brushed over the whole thing to tie it all together, which looked good wet, awful half dry, and very nice completely dried.....
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
That looks like a really successful example of the vaccuo-visual approach to weathering.
Tim
Tim
simond
Western Thunderer
Giles,
it looks wonderful, and the painting has certainly worked. The rusty cast iron wheels are totally believable.
I feel the smaller wheels were smaller so that they would turn under the body at tight lock, but they look like they just wouldn’t - or is it the viewing angle? I’m guessing it’s a turntable axle? A little more packing perhaps?
best
Simon
it looks wonderful, and the painting has certainly worked. The rusty cast iron wheels are totally believable.
I feel the smaller wheels were smaller so that they would turn under the body at tight lock, but they look like they just wouldn’t - or is it the viewing angle? I’m guessing it’s a turntable axle? A little more packing perhaps?
best
Simon