7mm GWR (?) 15XX kit build

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
This series of photographs shows the complexity of some parts of the kit. The cylinder attachment consists of a cylinder spacer with 'handed'cylinder 'attachment brackets' to obtain the correct 15 degree slope of the cylinders and the front and rear cylinder faces. The casting, that sits under the smokebox, needs to be carefully shaped to be a neat fit over the top of the cylinder and chassis spacers.

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The axle bearings depart from the traditional method by being inserted from the inside of the chassis. This is to allow the chassis to be wider than normal due to their being no 'footplate on this engine. This also means that normal plunger pickups cannot be easily used so I used a method, shown in the photographs, of making a small 'cutout' in the top of the chassis, behind the driving wheels , and attaching a sprung 'back scratcher' pickup to a short length of copper clad, glued to the inside of the chassis frames. The Nickel Silver wire shown in the photograph was changed for 32swg phosphor bronze wire.
The brakes were a bit tricky to get right as there is not a lot of room between the front driver and cylinder rear.
If you look closely at the bearing for the middle axle you will see a couple of further modifications I have made. I formed a recess in the end of the bearing for the spring to sit in and filed a flat on the bearing to slide against a length of scrap 'L' shaped brass to prevent the bearing rotating.
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The valve gear, all cast nickle, was the next challenge but it all fits together quite well. I modified it so that the cylinders and motion bracket could be removed as one which will require the Slaters crank pins replacing with 10BA bolts and also tapping the bearings 10BA (8 in total as 4 are needed for the middle cranks)

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Regards
Sandy
 
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Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Chassis assembled and test running complete. I have modified the valve gear to make it completely removable for painting/maintenance etc.


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The cab can be built as a modular unit and I have modified the cab roof to make it removable. I now find out it can be fitted back to front as well!!!

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Sandy
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
One day I am going to buy this kit but that will be some years from now! I think I will be going to Reading in December so I hope to see Warren there. I already have his GWR Mogul kit unopened!

Why this loco? It is very tempting to build one in its Coventry Colliery second life, though I also remember several of them on coach duty shunting at Paddington back in the late 1950s.
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
One day I am going to buy this kit but that will be some years from now! I think I will be going to Reading in December so I hope to see Warren there. I already have his GWR Mogul kit unopened!

Why this loco? It is very tempting to build one in its Coventry Colliery second life, though I also remember several of them on coach duty shunting at Paddington back in the late 1950s.

Good luck Paul. Don't leave it too long before you get the kit!!
Regards
Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
This morning I came across a small problem that needed resolving. Somewhere in the drawing process, or it may have been casting shrinkage, the total length of the boiler etch and cast firebox did not quite equal the length of the tanks. This left a gap that needed to be filled. I didn't want to mess with the firebox top, as it is a nice casting, nor the smokebox end, so decided that I needed to lengthen the boiler slightly to make it all fit. Careful measurement showed that I needed to lengthen the boiler by 1.5mm and this is how I did it. To most builders on here this will be quite a straight forward process but I have photographed and described it in detail for those who may be new to kit building.

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I took a length of scrap brass from the scrap box and prepared it to make an inner flange to the boiler etch. It is overly long, in the photograph, to help with holding it in place whilst soldering and will be cut back later.

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I also needed a length of brass 1.5mm wide to fit on top of the flange to bring the patch up to the height of the original boiler. I found a length of etch, the correct width, on part of the kit etch, cut it out and cleaned it up ready to install once the flange was attached.

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The usual method of using various spring clips was used to hold the flange in place while I soldered it to the underside of the boiler using the RSU. An ordinary soldering could also be used. The width of the flange protruding from under the boiler didn't matter at this stage as it is the 1.5mm width of the top part that is important.

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Using the same method as above, the 1.5mm wide length of brass strip was soldered to the flange and butted up against boiler etch. The underneath flange was then filed down so that it matched the width of the top piece. The whole job was then cleaned up and Job Done!

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Regards
Sandy
 
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Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Thank you Paul, excellent. These will assist in getting a lot of the small details in the right location.
Kind regards
Sandy
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Yes, the 15xx class do have a strong resemblance to many 0-6-0T switchers on the other side of the Atlantic. Always a short wheelbase for tight curved industrial sidings and never a need to travel very fast along the way. I realize this is a tender switcher, but look at the overhangs!

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Photographed at Ogden, UT in 1998. Sadly very few tank engines were ever plinthed when steam engines were erased from the landscape. The SP donated locos to various cities on their network according to number of wheels and size of the city. I guess nobody wanted a little tank engine in their local park! This is what Houston received:

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Photographed in Hermann Park in 2001. It now resides outside the Houston Astros Ball Park which used to be the Union Station.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Top photo is a SP S-13 switcher (ex T&NO).

Bottom photo is a T&NO 'Santa Fe' type (ex SP). SP transferred this loco to their T&NO subsidiary.
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Detailing of the superstructure has commenced but the 'fault' with the firebox casting has been niggling at me every time I look at it. I tried filing it down in an attempt to flatten it out but there is not enough meat in top plate representation to allow for this so I decided this morning to do something about it. I found a scrap piece of thin brass at around .027mm thick and cut it out to fit over the 'fault' as a top cover for the f/box. I also added a representation of a few fixing bolts and the retaining bands will be added later.

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Regards
Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
This was the fault in the firebox casting. It was a depression in the top plate that should have been flat. I tried filing it out but it was too deep, hence the replacement.

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Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Do I see the end in sight? Well, yes and no!!!! Like Peter there aren't many bits left in the box bit what is left is still going to take some time.
This morning however I cracked on and got the injectors, both sides, added, the cab doors, sand boxes, tool box, battery box, vac and train heating pipes. The list seems endless!


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Regards
Sandy
 
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