Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
I am very happy with this whole assembly around the door when you compare to the photo below.
Hunslet Works in 7mm
- Thread starter Andy Ross
- Start date
I am very happy with this whole assembly around the door when you compare to the photo below.
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
We have just had a busy weekend at Guildex and the layout was generally well received despite it being a work in progress.
I was helped over the weekend by Peter Kirmond. Peter built the baseboards and has assisted in other areas - including painting the Jubilee and fitting the DCC and sound.
This was the first outing since I painted the structure and the first time I populated the layout with all the loco parts etc.
Obviously I am pleased with how it looks but what does stand out now is that I need to get a lot of the loco parts painted. We have also decided that the next priority should be finishing the floors as this will change the complete appearance of the layout against the painted columns etc.
Below are several photos from the show. I did not take the camera with me so these are all from the phone.
We did have a couple of issues with the crane hoist ropes on both crabs but we managed to sort them both out. Short of having to re rope them completely, this has proved we can sort them no matter how badly tied up they get.
We did have a lot of issues with dirt which we put down to the hall floor which was unsealed concrete and not ideal. This has not been an issue previously.
The most annoying thing was the selector switch for the test track, which appears to of failed internally - I have ordered a replacement and this will be fitted tomorrow.
We are out again this coming weekend at the Steam Museum in Swindon. Jill will be helping this weekend and some of the time she will be demonstrating painting figures for the layout.
If you come along please say hello.
Andy.
I was helped over the weekend by Peter Kirmond. Peter built the baseboards and has assisted in other areas - including painting the Jubilee and fitting the DCC and sound.
This was the first outing since I painted the structure and the first time I populated the layout with all the loco parts etc.
Obviously I am pleased with how it looks but what does stand out now is that I need to get a lot of the loco parts painted. We have also decided that the next priority should be finishing the floors as this will change the complete appearance of the layout against the painted columns etc.
Below are several photos from the show. I did not take the camera with me so these are all from the phone.
We did have a couple of issues with the crane hoist ropes on both crabs but we managed to sort them both out. Short of having to re rope them completely, this has proved we can sort them no matter how badly tied up they get.
We did have a lot of issues with dirt which we put down to the hall floor which was unsealed concrete and not ideal. This has not been an issue previously.
The most annoying thing was the selector switch for the test track, which appears to of failed internally - I have ordered a replacement and this will be fitted tomorrow.
We are out again this coming weekend at the Steam Museum in Swindon. Jill will be helping this weekend and some of the time she will be demonstrating painting figures for the layout.
If you come along please say hello.
Andy.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
The model looked wonderful at Larkrail last year and looks better still (more to see) in these photos. Even if it was "generally" well-received at the show, I suspect it is universally admired here. Everything is inspiring.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
After mistaking Andy for another Andy Ross of this parish on Saturday and once confusion was cleared I had a chance to really admire this layout. Even with very little paint applied the levels of detail are second to none.
A superb project in the making.
A superb project in the making.
And me sort of.
I started work as apprentice electrician in the steel works in Kidderminster in 1956, then in 1961 moved to Brierley Hill. Take out the railway bits and replace with steel coils, bars and/or sheet it could be where I worked.
Allen
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Andy,
A superb model of an industrial works. The view down the length of the shop, with the two overhead cranes reminded me of the heavy engineering works in Wolverhampron where I did my student apprenticeship and worked for several years. Very much looking forward to seeing continued progress towards completion.
Dave.
A superb model of an industrial works. The view down the length of the shop, with the two overhead cranes reminded me of the heavy engineering works in Wolverhampron where I did my student apprenticeship and worked for several years. Very much looking forward to seeing continued progress towards completion.
Dave.
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
I have to be honest there has been very little progress since Guildex and Swindon due to other commitments.
I have had a look at the MOD loco as it was spluttering and sticking on the test track. I put this down to the wire pick ups I had fitted.
I replaced these with some phosphor bronze strips and it is much better.
As you can see the strips run on the top of the wheel treads. You cannot see these in operation due to the side valances.
Our next outing is justo over a week away at the Leeds Model Railway Society Exhibition - see details below.
If you come along, please say hello.
Andy
I have had a look at the MOD loco as it was spluttering and sticking on the test track. I put this down to the wire pick ups I had fitted.
I replaced these with some phosphor bronze strips and it is much better.
As you can see the strips run on the top of the wheel treads. You cannot see these in operation due to the side valances.
Our next outing is justo over a week away at the Leeds Model Railway Society Exhibition - see details below.
If you come along, please say hello.
Andy
Attachments
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
So in the build up to the exhibition this weekend I have not been totally idle.
What we have discovered at exhibitions is that we need another lift option. I have set up the 388Hp Hunslet 0-6-0 with lifting shackles. But to make this work I will need some more loco stands.
I made the originals form an etch I did long before I had a 3d Printer. You can see these in the picture below.
Now I have the printer I thought I would have a go printing some. Yes they will not be as strong but what have I got to lose.
What I did do was to print the stands with a small hole down the centre.
The hole is for a piece of 0.7 wire. This is glued in place and this makes it a lot stronger.
I then removed enough supports so I could prime them using Army Painter primer.
This was then brush painted with Rough Iron and then a dark wash applied.
Not sure the colour is right so I am trying some different colours.
Once it was dry I removed the rest of the supports.
The brass wire is left at the base, I will drill a small hole int the workshop floor to position the stands from a template for the loco.
As the layout is all crated up now for the weekend, I will have to fit these on Friday once we are set up at the show.
I have added the details of the show again. If you come along, please say hello - we will be just behind the pay desk.
Andy
What we have discovered at exhibitions is that we need another lift option. I have set up the 388Hp Hunslet 0-6-0 with lifting shackles. But to make this work I will need some more loco stands.
I made the originals form an etch I did long before I had a 3d Printer. You can see these in the picture below.
Now I have the printer I thought I would have a go printing some. Yes they will not be as strong but what have I got to lose.
What I did do was to print the stands with a small hole down the centre.
The hole is for a piece of 0.7 wire. This is glued in place and this makes it a lot stronger.
I then removed enough supports so I could prime them using Army Painter primer.
This was then brush painted with Rough Iron and then a dark wash applied.
Not sure the colour is right so I am trying some different colours.
Once it was dry I removed the rest of the supports.
The brass wire is left at the base, I will drill a small hole int the workshop floor to position the stands from a template for the loco.
As the layout is all crated up now for the weekend, I will have to fit these on Friday once we are set up at the show.
I have added the details of the show again. If you come along, please say hello - we will be just behind the pay desk.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
The layout is all set up at for the Leeds Model Railway society exhibition - see details in previous post.
With the new stands in place the shop looks a lot different with a large loco on the Wheeshop side of the erecting shop.
We also took a video of the first ever lift of the 388HP loco. This was a bit of a risk as the lifting brackets on the loco a re the resin ones from the kit but they seem more than strong enough.
This loco is a Judith Edge Kit and thank go to Mike Edge for the loan of the locomotive.
If you want to see Locomotives lifted with twin overhead cranes including wheeling on the MOD locomotives, please come along and say hello. The layout is located just at the back of the pay desk.
Andy
With the new stands in place the shop looks a lot different with a large loco on the Wheeshop side of the erecting shop.
We also took a video of the first ever lift of the 388HP loco. This was a bit of a risk as the lifting brackets on the loco a re the resin ones from the kit but they seem more than strong enough.
This loco is a Judith Edge Kit and thank go to Mike Edge for the loan of the locomotive.
If you want to see Locomotives lifted with twin overhead cranes including wheeling on the MOD locomotives, please come along and say hello. The layout is located just at the back of the pay desk.
Andy
Attachments
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
The layout was well received at the exhibition. I chatted with several people who had worked at the site or had family who did.
The next outing is Preston at the beginning of March next year.
Due to the layout suffering from the damp last winter in the garage, after the exhibition I took it to the Club Rooms which will be cols bit is not damp. It will be put up in a few weeks time so members can run their DCC models on the test track.
So with the garage relatively empty and before it gets too cold, I have take the opportunity to start painting some of the detail parts.
This meant etch priming the metal parts and using the army painters coloured primers for the 3d printed parts. I have painted some of the engines in the different manufactures colours. Yellow for Caterpillar, red for Ford etc.
One of the big problems I have is working out how to paint parts to look like they are raw steel.
The photo from the real shop below shows the problem.
The plan at the moment is to paint the parts/frames dark brown which I did with the airbrush. I have orders some Tamiya rust weathering and see how it works.
The other problem is how to do the cabs and casing which are made from de-coiled sheet. I have painted some parts with gunmetal which is a metallic colour. The plan is to town this down and see what happens.
As we add more details I will add more photos.
I am also working on the rest of the floor and hope to have most if not all of it down before Preston.
Andy
The next outing is Preston at the beginning of March next year.
Due to the layout suffering from the damp last winter in the garage, after the exhibition I took it to the Club Rooms which will be cols bit is not damp. It will be put up in a few weeks time so members can run their DCC models on the test track.
So with the garage relatively empty and before it gets too cold, I have take the opportunity to start painting some of the detail parts.
This meant etch priming the metal parts and using the army painters coloured primers for the 3d printed parts. I have painted some of the engines in the different manufactures colours. Yellow for Caterpillar, red for Ford etc.
One of the big problems I have is working out how to paint parts to look like they are raw steel.
The photo from the real shop below shows the problem.
The plan at the moment is to paint the parts/frames dark brown which I did with the airbrush. I have orders some Tamiya rust weathering and see how it works.
The other problem is how to do the cabs and casing which are made from de-coiled sheet. I have painted some parts with gunmetal which is a metallic colour. The plan is to town this down and see what happens.
As we add more details I will add more photos.
I am also working on the rest of the floor and hope to have most if not all of it down before Preston.
Andy
AdeMoore
Western Thunderer
Hi Andy,
Great thread mighty impressive.
Really enjoy your updates here.
Pete Insole is a master at making wood or plastic look like metal!
in a bigger scale but his described technique might prove useful.
Post in thread 'Finescale - of a sort?!'
Finescale - of a sort?!
Post 386 if link doesn’t work!
Great thread mighty impressive.
Really enjoy your updates here.
Pete Insole is a master at making wood or plastic look like metal!
in a bigger scale but his described technique might prove useful.
Post in thread 'Finescale - of a sort?!'
Finescale - of a sort?!
Post 386 if link doesn’t work!
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
And take that photo to exhibitions, some people won't believe new stuff gets so rusty!
Lovely work. I'm hoping to maybe come to Preston to see this next year.
John
Lovely work. I'm hoping to maybe come to Preston to see this next year.
John
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Hi
Thankyou for the link - it did work and it looks interesting for machined and aged components.
Andy
Phil O
Western Thunderer
Hi Andy,
Your sheet steel colour is pretty close. Sheet steel is a shiny very light grey, which has oil on it.
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Thanks. It’s a lot nearer than the rolled plate which is going to take some time experimenting.
The sheet should be ok with a bit of toning down so it not too metallic. It needs a slight blue tint as well.
I have ordered a few weathering materials to try this weekend.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thanks Ade for your complement! I must admit that the particular requirements of Andy's query, including the matter of scale, has me flummoxed!
The only advice I can give is to mix as many colours on a test surface, make a list or diagram of which shades were used, and where, or just take photographic sequences that include the tin lids (etc.) to aid the memory!
I'm guessing that besides the virginal base colour, any part assembled pieces still in bare metal would quickly become a mass of cut or weld burns, grinder marks, chalking and finger/hand prints?
What a challenge?!
Pete.
P.S. I forgot to mention that when looking at the photo, various parts arrived already primed in red oxide!
The only advice I can give is to mix as many colours on a test surface, make a list or diagram of which shades were used, and where, or just take photographic sequences that include the tin lids (etc.) to aid the memory!
I'm guessing that besides the virginal base colour, any part assembled pieces still in bare metal would quickly become a mass of cut or weld burns, grinder marks, chalking and finger/hand prints?
What a challenge?!
Pete.
P.S. I forgot to mention that when looking at the photo, various parts arrived already primed in red oxide!
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Peter
It really is a challenge, I had thought about grinding marks etc on the fabrications and oily streaks. I am hoping to do this with some weathering pencils I have on order. General layers of grinding dust is probably going to have to be built up over time using some of the washes I have been using.
I will put any of the test pieces up on here.
Andy
It really is a challenge, I had thought about grinding marks etc on the fabrications and oily streaks. I am hoping to do this with some weathering pencils I have on order. General layers of grinding dust is probably going to have to be built up over time using some of the washes I have been using.
I will put any of the test pieces up on here.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
I am back into test piece mode. This time for the windows in the main wall at the side of the test track.
The original mock up that I made that some of you would have seen at exhibitions, had the lintels left on the walls with the openings for the windows openings only.
Putting some extra thickness on these would be difficult and it would be easy to get them out of position and look a mess.
The only real option was to include the lintels in the 3d drawing of the frames.
I have printed four frames and used two on a small test wall section with the new openings using MDF.
This was painted with red oxide and detailed up using army painters acrylic.
The frames went straight into the apertures without any filing or trimming.
I cut some black acrylic on the laser to fit in the recess I created in the back of the frames.
The window frames were painted in Army Painter Green primer. Then masked so the lintels could be painted black.
I then used a dark wash on the brick work as I had before and then fixed the frames. I added another coat of wash on the wholes assembly
This has come out ok when you compare with a real photo.
It will need some detailed weathering when it is all built up and some minor selected mortar. most of it had gone black in reality.
I will now look at finalising the designs for all the structure , right sown the yard.
Andy
The original mock up that I made that some of you would have seen at exhibitions, had the lintels left on the walls with the openings for the windows openings only.
Putting some extra thickness on these would be difficult and it would be easy to get them out of position and look a mess.
The only real option was to include the lintels in the 3d drawing of the frames.
I have printed four frames and used two on a small test wall section with the new openings using MDF.
This was painted with red oxide and detailed up using army painters acrylic.
The frames went straight into the apertures without any filing or trimming.
I cut some black acrylic on the laser to fit in the recess I created in the back of the frames.
The window frames were painted in Army Painter Green primer. Then masked so the lintels could be painted black.
I then used a dark wash on the brick work as I had before and then fixed the frames. I added another coat of wash on the wholes assembly
This has come out ok when you compare with a real photo.
It will need some detailed weathering when it is all built up and some minor selected mortar. most of it had gone black in reality.
I will now look at finalising the designs for all the structure , right sown the yard.
Andy