JLTRT CLAYTON

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I bought this kit when it was first launched and it has therefore sat on my shelf for about 3 years.
I thought it was time to have a go at it, I think Claytons look different in a nice way but unfortunately they had all been withdrawn a few years before my main modelling period of 1981, but its my railway and this one has somehow survived !

The it follows the usual JLTRT philosophy lots of exquisite big pieces of resin for the body, chassis and bogies. As usual these are just gorgeous, nobody casts resin better than JLTRT.
Sadly that often isn't true of their detail castings made from white metal or brass, some of these in the 40 and 37 kits I have had have been dreadful and new ones have had to be supplied by them. They always do I just don't understand why they send out such poor ones in the first place.

This time though the castings are good and I haven't found any that need to be binned yet. The other annoying problem is missing parts, and this time there are 3 brake cylinders missing, but everything else seems to be there.

Here are some pictures, some of the castings to start.


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Seats, sand boxes, dampers and the 1 brake cylinder.

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Various details here, the sand pipes, top row second from right are one the best castings I have seen from JLTRT.

Looking at everything it should go together fairly easily and quickly. The instructions state that the only tricky bit is getting the cab and the body all level and square, I would agree with that. I have nice offcut of kitchen table top granite to put that together on.

For once the first thing to do is to put the cab details together as the interior isn't going to be that easy to access once the cab has been built.

Here are some of the bits

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The 2 cab ends with the cab controls added.

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The cab sides. These are now all going to be painted, usually one of the last things I do.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
A bit more work has been done now

The bogies are well on their way, it is a little bit crowded in scale 7 but there is enough room for the slaters wheels that have only been reprofiled they haven't been thinned.

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I'm using the ABC gear diesel gearbox and one of their smaller motors. The detail bits, brakes, sand boxes etc just glue in place.

I also put the body and chassis together to see what it is going to look like

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Its all starting to look good and will make a really nice model once its finished.
I think the trickest bit will be finding somewhere to get some lead over the power bogie, there isn't a lot of spare room in there.
 

Jon Fitness

Western Thunderer
Are you using Delrin drive on the power bogie? That chunky inner bogie unit and the sides of the gearbox must restrict the width available for the cogwheels! I was going to use a gearbox on my 24 but I wouldn't have had enough space for the delrin cogs to fit and still be pinned (I drill them and fit a length of wire through them to stop them ever slipping should any oil get where it isn't wanted)
JF
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Jon,
Shameless plug alert:

You're about right; and the width of the gearbox is key to the ability to fit a full Delrin sprocket. One other thing, not normally mentioned, is that the acetal chain drives have ball races as part of their application specification. I also use ball races on my gearboxes, giving a solution which perhaps looks something like this:

IMG_8990v1.jpg IMG_8992v1.jpg
Wheels are from Peartree, motor is a Mashima 1833 and the gear ratio is 13:1, in this example.

Sorry about the diversion, Richard.

Steph
 

Jon Fitness

Western Thunderer
Jon,
Shameless plug alert:

You're about right; and the width of the gearbox is key to the ability to fit a full Delrin sprocket. One other thing, not normally mentioned, is that the acetal chain drives have ball races as part of their application specification. I also use ball races on my gearboxes, giving a solution which perhaps looks something like this:

View attachment 44995 View attachment 44996
Wheels are from Peartree, motor is a Mashima 1833 and the gear ratio is 13:1, in this example.

Sorry about the diversion, Richard.

Steph
Very nice. I much prefer the thinner sides of an etched gearbox. Nice though the machined ones are, they take up too much space. Once Mr Waterman releases his D600 kit I'll be enquiring after a couple of your 'boxes! (Plug successful!)
JF
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Are you using Delrin drive on the power bogie? That chunky inner bogie unit and the sides of the gearbox must restrict the width available for the cogwheels! I was going to use a gearbox on my 24 but I wouldn't have had enough space for the delrin cogs to fit and still be pinned (I drill them and fit a length of wire through them to stop them ever slipping should any oil get where it isn't wanted)
JF


Yes I have already fitted the delrin cogs there is plenty of room for them and the ABC gears gear box.
I was able to get a force fit onthe axle so a pin won't be necessary on these, although I generally do pin them as I often ream out the cogs with 3/16th reamer thenyou do need to pin them.

Richard
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Work on this has progressed well over the weekend. I started by fitting all the buffer beam details.
The instructions actually tell you to solder something, most unusual for a JLTRT kit. These are I think the loco air brake pipes for when working in multiple but I stand to be corrected.

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The first two bits glue on then you have to solder on the rest like so

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sorry wrong picture
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The rest then just glue in place
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Here the nody has just been place on the chassis, the next task was to glue it all together.
 
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