Johns LNWR gallery

[Mike W]

My footplating is done the same way as yours John. My splashers are cast, but the plates at each end lap over he etched flat part of the plate, the separate parts of which are held together with a sacrificial strip which is cut off after assembly. I still think your kit was quite advanced for its day. But my engine has one big difference to yours!

Mike

 

[john lewsey]

"The Cauli's absolutely ooze character and always make interesting models."

I so agree!

MikeView attachment 140437

Hi Mike that really is very nice, and quite a useful photo
John

 

[john lewsey]

Mike the kit is Obviously dated but actually quite simple. I Just hope that I can make a reasonable job of it

 

[Kevin MH]

Mike the kit is Obviously dated but actually quite simple. I Just hope that I can make a reasonable job of it

Stick to it. You implied that you have limited experience building locos. Accept that your early attempts will be less glorious than the product of Laurie Griffin or any other pro. Strive for the satisfaction that comes from building locos, which is huge.

 

[john lewsey]

 

[john lewsey]

What a difference a tender makes

 

[Mike W]

Don't wish to be critical John, but I would ditch the dome casting. The rest of the kit looks OK, but a Laurie Griffin dome would make a big difference even though it is horrendously expensive.

Mike

 

[Kevin MH]

Yes, the dome is a strong candidate for replacement. The chimney is pretty good for white metal.

 

[john lewsey]

Don't wish to be critical John, but I would ditch the dome casting. The rest of the kit looks OK, but a Laurie Griffin dome would make a big difference even though it is horrendously expensive.

Mike

Hi Mike
Im going to replace all of thr casting, ive Just put them on there for effect
John

 

[john lewsey]

The chassis for the 18inch goods is moving forward with the horn blocks done and the coupling rod etched soldered together and tidied up and jointed. It Actually rolls freely

 

[Kevin MH]

Rolling is a big step!

 

[Kevin MH]

John,

Did you write that the frames folded up to be just right for Scale 7? Because my current production Cauliflower has similar frames, but I need to run it on 7mm Scale, and tight radius to boot.

Kevin

 

[john lewsey]

Hi
The 18 inch goods coupling rods are almost done with the oiling points added. The firebox has also been added
John

 

[john lewsey]

John,

Did you write that the frames folded up to be just right for Scale 7? Because my current production Cauliflower has similar frames, but I need to run it on 7mm Scale, and tight radius to boot.

Kevin

Hi Kevin what are the measurements for O guage frames
John

 

[Kevin MH]

Hi Kevin what are the measurements for O guage frames
John

Well, I don't think there is a standard, and I have only four locos behind me. But my coal tank comes in at 26.7mm, and my 0-8-0 is 26.5mm.

 

[john lewsey]

Hi I know that a couple of you have one of these to make. One of the awkward bits (for me at least) is the running plate, as its made of several bits and keeping the whole thing straight and Square is a trial. I made one side, with the splashers on but the found it difficult to fill the joints. So the next one I took the splashers off so that I could get solder onto the joints and rub them down. I hope that makes sense
John

 

[Kevin MH]

Honestly, I'm surprised the sweeps don't unsolder from the first joint as you are trying to solder up the second joint.

 

[paulc]

Hi I know that a couple of you have one of these to make. One of the awkward bits (for me at least) is the running plate, as its made of several bits and keeping the whole thing straight and Square is a trial. I made one side, with the splashers on but the found it difficult to fill the joints. So the next one I took the splashers off so that I could get solder onto the joints and rub them down. I hope that makes sense
John View attachment 141907

Hi John , when i made the running plate for my scratchbuilt Precursor it was made out of a piece of brass wide enough for both sides plus a bit of extra . Then after marking out roll all three curves , after you have thrown two or three away you finally get one thats correct . It is then just a case of cutting down the middle and filing back to get the width you need and then cutting out for the wheels etc . You now have two halves that are are identical and it is an easy case to solder the splashers and the joining pieces to create a whole footplate .
Hope that makes sense .
Cheers Paul

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

John,

When I made my wavy footplates I shaped each side individually and cut out the spaces for the wheels after forming. Easy to do on a scratchbuild but if I was building a kit I might just try cutting the footplate in two and rejoin them once shaped!

Ian.

 

[john lewsey]

Hi chaps
Thank you for your comments, I am hoping to make a reasonable job of the kit as it comes, with added detail. If I cant make the running plate look ok ill give your ideas a try. Lovely work on your loco Ian
John