Just Like The Real Thing Class 25

[28ten]

Those are good results for a rattle can, although I do prefer an airbrush to get into the fine detail without flooding the detail.

 

[westernfan]

Hi Ross That rat is looking good , i find that if i soak my railmatch rattle can nozzles in thinners then they are good to go next time i use them.

 

[rjr]

Invert the can and spray until only air comes out , cleans the nozzle.

 

[Jordan]

IMHO, I think that whilst they are pricey, the JLTRT 24/25's et al. have to be the best on the market - they look really great too

That is true... while ones like myself will always moan at the price (okay so I'm tight!!) it does seem true that nearly all the JLTRT range are the best representations of each class currently available.

 

[Phill Dyson]

[quote=""CME & Bottlewasher"":8w97qnsr]IMHO, I think that whilst they are pricey, the JLTRT 24/25's et al. have to be the best on the market - they look really great too

That is true... while ones like myself will always moan at the price (okay so I'm tight!!) it does seem true that nearly all the JLTRT range are the best representations of each class currently available.[/quote:8w97qnsr]
I think Heljan (assuming the gears are not a problem & the problems they have with the 00 models do not effect the O gauge range) have given JLTRT more than a run for there money with the 35 & 37, especially when you add cost into the equation :scratch:, but having said that, I do agree....... JLTRT do take some beating

Phill :wave:

 

[rosspeacock]

Invert the can and spray until only air comes out , cleans the nozzle.

Yes this method does work for me, although ive had one or two "rogue" nozzles I tend to keep good nozzles (also dont waste money on expensive Badger airbrush cleaner use carburettor and injector cleaner it contains the same dangerous chemicals and you get 3x as much for half the money)

 

[rjr]

3 times the danger for half the price "cool"

and yes some nozzles work forever some die to quick, so I too keep the good ones.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Yes I invert the can & spray to clean the nozzle & keep a collection of un-blocked nozzles in a jar of white spirit...........You can also use nozzles from car paint cans,as they are usually better than the Railmatch ones

 

[Phill Dyson]

Will the RM wp yellow go on alright over grey primer? I have always bottled out and used a white primer for yellows :scratch:

I spray all my WP Yellow over grey primer & I'm quite happy with the results

 

[28ten]

[quote=""CME & Bottlewasher"":21mn0yvd]

Will the RM wp yellow go on alright over grey primer? I have always bottled out and used a white primer for yellows :scratch:

I spray all my WP Yellow over grey primer & I'm quite happy with the results [/quote:21mn0yvd]
Yeah, grey works ok for me as well. But it does need a few coats

 

[Ressaldar]

Halfords yellow aerosols state 'for best results use white primer' so I guess it depends on which 'finish' manufacturer you are using. Although I used red primer all over on the MLV and then three or four thin coats for the yellow ends.

regards

Mike

 

[Phill Dyson]

Halfords yellow aerosols state 'for best results use white primer' so I guess it depends on which 'finish' manufacturer you are using. Although I used red primer all over on the MLV and then three or four thin coats for the yellow ends.

regards

Mike

So are you using the car paint listed here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=270 for your warning panels mike ?

Phill :wave:

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Phil,

I had already bought some aerosols some time ago , having produced some swatches from Railmatch bottles and went to Halfords on a 'matching' mission.

I came up with:

Warning panel yellow - Ford Signal Yellow - use white primer

Post Office Red - Ford Sunburst Red - use red primer

I have been using CarPlan Colourmatch Grey-01 for all roof work for some time (the stockist is a lot closer than Halfords) but it is identical to Halfords bumper grey.

I will use your list for future purchases from Halfords - I didn't want to waste my existing stock. Must admit that I still prefer the airbrush, but it's the preparation and cleaning up thats the bugbear.

Cynric

is there a method/way of updating this list (and any other similar ones) to ensure that all possibilities are covered?

regards

Mike

 

[Simon]

One of my mates who worked with resins as a pattern maker - he is now into CAD and works for the likes of Aston Martin et al. etc. - said that he thinks that the JLTRT loco/coach bodies wont stand the test of time, another mate, same line of work - then went onto F1 etc. - says that the resin will last forever in its moulded shape as it is now 'inert'. My dad used to work with GRP and resin always on larger items reinforced with GRP or GRP and Resin soaked marine ply etc. Yet with the JLTRT models I guess that we shall have to wait and see

I really don't think anyone needs to do that, and if they do then they will probably be dead and buried before they get any modelling done :lol:

I'm firmly on the side of the resin myself, all the tales against it seem to of the "opinions held by a good friend" type and I don't think I've ever heard of a resin model failing.

Can't say the same for Heljan products though can we? :shock:

I've cast quite a lot of stuff in resin over the last 10 years or so and also know Fred Phipps who has had resin kits made - no problems of the "disintegration" variety to report at all. I've left my casts on the shed roof for years, bounced them around the garden, unpainted, and can report no problems.

If you get the mix wrong you certainly can make problematic casts, floppy, sticky etc. but If I can get this right I'm pretty certain that JLRT and CMA etc will do so too.

It seems to me that there is a lot of uneccessary prejudice against resin in the model railway field - military and aero modellers don't have this problem - I guess its just the inherent conservatism of the average British railway modeller at work

 

[rjr]

Having been heavily involved with pattern making myself, including the manufacture of very expensive military aircraft tooling I can confirm a well cast resin will outlive most of us !

If you want hobby proof a lot of model boat hulls are made from fibreglass or all resin these are exposed to far harsher conditions that those railway models will ever see and survive

 

[Jordan]

Will the RM wp yellow go on alright over grey primer? I have always bottled out and used a white primer for yellows :scratch:

I too have done that on my 22 & 14; but the lads here assured me (afterwards!! ) that grey primer is fine...

I too have heard of the 4mm Heljan (class 47's?) bodies cracking, yet the old Lima 33's and Triang/Novo (as hard as nails for the latter - nuclear waste impregnated plastic :lol: ) Hymeks have lasted well. I have heard that with the Heljans it is something to do with the metal/plastic chassis construction :scratch: :scratch:

IIRC there was this body-cracking issue with the Hornby Class 31 too. Something to do with the chassis expanding and the sort of metal it's made from. I've not heard of any problems like this with Heljan's O scale stuff.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Hi Phil,

I had already bought some aerosols some time ago , having produced some swatches from Railmatch bottles and went to Halfords on a 'matching' mission.

I came up with:

Warning panel yellow - Ford Signal Yellow - use white primer

Thanks for that Mike , I wonder what effect white primer would have on Rail Blue ?, as exposing the white underneath would look really good for Laira Blue

is there a method/way of updating this list (and any other similar ones) to ensure that all possibilities are covered?

Could you just add a reply to post your findings on the colour match thread or failing that, perhaps a PM to Cynric ?, as all these posts are invaluable IMO

Cheers Phill

 

[28ten]

I have an idea for mini wiki that any member could update, I just need so work out how to do it!!

 

[lancer1027]

is there a method/way of updating this list (and any other similar ones) to ensure that all possibilities are covered?

Could you just add a reply to post your findings on the colour match thread or failing that, perhaps a PM to Cynric ?, as all these posts are invaluable IMO

Cheers Phill [/quote:2d1k5r9h]
Hi Phill, I have done all my wessies with white primer, then gently rub away for various grades of faded blue and in some cases as can be seen on Stalwart rub away so it leaves the white underneath

Rob :wave:

 

[rosspeacock]

Hi, only a little bit of progress this week, ive built up the cab interiors and given them a 1st coat of grey, also screwed the roof fan together and given it a lick of red paint, not got round to the yellow ends yet but I usually give them a coat of humbrol matt yellow as a sort of primer then a couple of coats of RM yellow should do the trick.. Ive also given the cabs inside on the main body a thin coat of grey.. :wave: