Lima 33 to a Class 26/7

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hi Rob and Steve, Just going to try upload a couple of pics at a time and build from there.. :wave: :wave: Ross
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Here are a couple of pics to start with...................................
 

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rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
And a couple more.......................
 

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rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Getting brave now ill try the last 3.................. :headbang: :thumbs: Ross...
 

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rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hi Rob and Steve, Re pics in 1st post these show cutting out of grill and grabhandles, this is done by using a razor saw at each side of the moulded lima handrails a 2mm drill bit in a pin chuck rounds the tops and rest is filed up with a flat needle file... strips of plasticard are glued on the backs and 0.7mm holes can be drilled in this for your handrails, any masking tape you see is to protect detail, sometimes as in for sanding off cantrail grilles I use about 3 or 4 layers as this requires quite vigorous sanding and is essential to protect fine details Rivet heads and Window frames etc etc.. :wave: :wave: :thumbs: Ross..
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hello again, picture 2 and 3 in second post show process just described for removal of cantrail grilles, I work down the sandpaper grades, picture 4 shows how the lugs on the chassis need altering to accomodate the body after you have stuck the bits of plasticard behind the recessed handrails cut outs... :wave: :thumbs: Ross...
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hi again, Picture 5 shows the plasticard strips afore mentioned on No2 end and picture 6 shows the same at No1 end (try looking at the centre window on picture 6 its not very clear) this shows the 10mm x 15mm cut out that I fill with plasticard I use quite thick stuff (abt 1.5mm) what ill do is draw a couple of pics and photograph them this might help with the fronts (watch this space) the last pic, Picture 7 shows how much of the chassis you need to cut away to accomodate bogie stretchers, fuel tanks and battery boxes...  :wave: :wave: :thumbs: Ross..
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Da Daaa!!!! Here is one I made earlier this one is 27108 I made for Geoff Bennett...  Also there is 27108 and 26034 double heading at a location im sure you're familiar with :scratch: :scratch: Also I've put this one on (know its a 33 and its a modern livery) think this was one of my favorites that I've done and Its "33019 Griffon"  :wave:Ross...
 

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Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Does this mean Rob's doing a 26/27  :scratch:.............I'm pretty confident they never made it to Penzance Rob  :eek: ::) :)) :)) :))

Is this an old build Ross  :scratch: , or are you doing it now ?.

Phill  :wave:

BTW That pic of the complete one looks familiar ........I take it my royalty cheque is in the post  ;D :)) :)) :))
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Rob and his friend Steve got a couple of 33's at Telford, and between them they gonna make a 27 I believe, these are some pics of an old build I documented in its early stages, Rob asked if I'd give them a few pointers and show him some pictures, and what better meduim than this forum... will have to draw a pic of fronts and how they go together as I dont have a picture of that part of the build... hope Rob and Steve will carry on this thread or one in his own workbench :thumbs: :wave: Ross.. (Ps: no royalties but thanks for the superb location and pictures..... :)) :bowdown:)
 

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
Hi Ross, thanks very much for this step by step build it will be very helpful :thumbs: I look forward to any other pics and building tips put on here to help with this project. :thumbs:

Now then Phill you know me better than that.... 26/27's for me.... er that will be a NO then  :))maybe 26/27 westerns :)) :)). These are for Steve, but seeing as he is a novice to O gauge and only just getting into modelling in any way shape or form i offered my help with these builds :scratch:

I will add onto this thread as and when me/steve have something to add :thumbs:

Again thanks Ross much appreciated :thumbs:

Rob :wave:
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Jordan said:
With a bit of work, and either kept as a 33 or "McRatted", the old Lima 33 still scrubs up quite well, doesn't it?

Are the lashed-up 26 and 27 now allocated to a certain Scottish layout, as seen at Telford..?  :scratch: :thumbs:
The 26 Is on Ians Layout but I've not seen the 27 since It passed onto its new owner Geoff Bennett.... And yes I agree they scrub up pretty well, think even with Heljan bringing these classes out the Lima is still a good introduction to 0 gauge especailly when you dont have a big fat cheque book :thumbs: :thumbs: :wave: Ross..
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I think that Scottish pair look fantastic, especially at the head of those Mk 2s and on Phil's brilliant layout  - thanks for sharing the pictures :thumbs:

I sometimes wish that there was a "Rat" option in G1, but then I remember how lucky we (G1-ers) are to have Fred's class 22 and the Warship :)

I agree with Phill though, even leaving aside the question of cost there is nothing to beat the feeling of "I made that", whether it be from  a kit, "bash" or scratch building.

Which reminds me, there's that unfinished Class 121 shape in my shed :-[
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hi Rob, did a few drawings with numbers on them hope it helps;
1. Remove horn cowl
2. Some rainstrip will require removal where headcode box will fit and where nose will be formed
3. Remove lamp irons
4. Retain tail lights
5. Hole for MU jumper
6. 0.7mm holes for handrails
7. Cut out 10mm x 15mm from centre window
8. 1mm holes for wipers
9. 0.7mm holes for screenwash jets
10. Holes for lamp irons
 

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rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Cont'd;
11. Make up window rubber from 020" plasticard strip, make sure its a really tight fit into the corners (mek in place)
12. Centre window, make this slightly oversize to allow for window rubber afore mentioned
13. Headcode box (fold up etch)
14. Fill gap (there will be one) with solder and file up
15. Make up this securing tab from scrap brass this will aid fixing to the dome solder onto inside of box (dotted line) After happy with fit etc (remove some rainstrip above centre window for nice square fit) ensuring lug on headcode box lines up with rainstrip on dome etc bend tabs over inside and superglue box in place
16. Make up nose from Milliput, cut some away as its going off this will aid sanding saving a lot of time (this as with the cab centre window can only really be done by eye as the Lima 33 is not exactly to scale to start with)
17. Remove some rainstrip above centre window, this will be behind headcode box (mentioned in 15) this will help ensure the box fits nice and square etc (see picture of 27108 on this thread)
18. Use 0.7mm styrene rod for washer jets
19. Make up handrails from 0.7mm wire

Hope these drawings are some help to you Rob and Steve, when you get round to doing a 26 I'll do similar with a few pointers etc  :wave: :wave: :thumbs: Ross...
 

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rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Ressaldar said:
Hi Ross,

the 33 is very good, might be tempted to have a go on one in the distant future.

regards

Mike
Thanks Mike, judging by your avatar could be around your era too, did 33050 "Isle of Grain" A while back in a batch of modern liveried Class 33's for Pete Besant at PRMRP I've attached a picture I thought you might like it :wave: :wave: Regards Ross....
 

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marsa69

Western Thunderer
Now that is how I would like mine to turn out! Excellent work Ross  :bowdown:

P.S. Now can we have an idiots guide for a 33 build?  :D
 
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