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Discussion in 'WR Action' started by 28ten, 23 January 2010.
D1000 relaxing after a spot of preshading with Panzer grey around the grills and shadow areas
Interior is done but not in the model yet. The masks are just mdf lasered to fit
Looks like an occlusion mapped CAD model , clever idea to pre darken shadow areas before the main coat, I like that train of thought!
it is strange how it comes alive as soon as the pre shading goes on
Evergreen strip .20x.20 irrc pre bend it to a hockeystick shape ( i have lasered an mdf former to check it against) then once it is well and truly set sand it back to make it .20x.10. the reason for doing it that way is thay you cant form the shape from .20x.10
What does the pre-shading do Cynric? Isn't it just covered by the next coat?
Preshading gives some depth to the shadows, it is over painted with thin coats
a couple of in progress shots, very rough as the paint was sitting in the airbrush cup
Firstly you can see that the tricky edges and recesses where overspray can be a problem are painted first with very thin light coats. this is why i never use rattle cans the amount of paint being applied frightens me
second shot shows it after a dozen or so thin coats and some of the paints used
finally a blow up showing the grills and pre shading, you can achieve something similar with a wash, but it looks less natural for clean subject. the shot also shows the full depth of colour in the handrail recess, another dozen or so light coats tomorrow should do it. The work on the bodyside join seems to have paid off
Your technique looks great - but I'd expect nothing less...
I can claim no originality for it Aero and military have done it for years
I did consider full modulation but i didnt feel a Wezzie was angular enough, having said that i used a darkened mix under the brow and the valance.
Thanks Cynric. Any chance you could laser me one of those formers at some point too please?
Looking good........for the basis of a weathered version of this loco, I really like look of the desert sand as it is
I couldnt resist this the invisible Western. I was going to get a daylight shot but the rain has started (again)
D1000 looks EXCELLENT Cynric. I like the way you have weathered the frills before adding top coat.
Still think it should have been blue. Nice and sunny here but very windy.
It still takes some care to make it work, I know as I've tried and failed! I'm convinced it'll add something to lift the relatively plain sides of the model...
Go on then, I'll ask: what's full modulation when it's at home?
And I'd also be interested in lasered hockey sticks and masks for the windows....could you PM me a price if you are willing to do it? Thanks.
http://migjimenez.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/modulation-and-weathering.html I have decided to highlight some parts such as the line between the roof and bodyside with a slightly lighter mis, but with such a light body colour the shadows make the most difference.
Ill work out what bits I have cut, I know I have some stencils for preshading on file as well
What sort of paint are you using? it is an easy technique as long as the paint for the top coat is thin.
In between pre christmas stuff I managed the roof, possibly a little dark but it doesnt matter as it wont be staying like that. the body is at full colour and the preshading still works (phew!)
A Hymek for company
Preparing the plates - I always know the end is in sight when I do this
My one final conundrum is the yellow panel, I dont really want the panel but I know the grill is incorrect. I may yet turn a blind eye and it is easy enough to add the panel at a later date should my conscience dictate....
Can't it have the red buffer-beam inset? 1000 carried that in 1962 with that colour scheme.
Also, whose plates are they? I didn't think the lion and wheel would lend themselves to etching and they don't really, do they?
The real thing was cast and VERY 3-D.
Perhaps someone could cast them in whitemetal?
White metal is a bit clunky, neither option is ideal, I have drawing and 3d printing might be a better possibility, I dont have to fit it just yet.
My conscience woke this morning and said yellow panel so....
Im glad i did it now i might dust a little white filter over the yellow to lighten it a tad and the edges by the marker light need sharpening, but it seems satisfactory. obvious tip here is not to fit the headboard clips etc until the masking has been done, if you are doing full yellow panel its a cakewalk.
seeing the outdoor shots Im really pleases i chose Desert (Afrika Korps) sand for this one, a green one would be nice though.....