mickoo
Western Thunderer
A chap on FB machined them up for me, I bought a bag of 100 to round it up
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
It might of been him and not me, or him himselfAs long as it's him and not me
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Same pictures here
The sheaves have a flat running surface so I needed a thin flange on the outside to stop the eccentric rods from dropping off, I could have had the flange machined on but opted for an etch with the web and rib detail.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I want one!
Oops. Apologies - wants are not allowed, are they...
Brian
Oops. Apologies - wants are not allowed, are they...
Brian
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Brian,I want one!
Oops. Apologies - wants are not allowed, are they...
Brian
You would like one.
Ian
Rob R
Western Thunderer
I NEED one? ( well a pair at least)I want one!
Oops. Apologies - wants are not allowed, are they...
Brian
cmax
Western Thunderer
Fan flipping tasicBecause I can
View attachment 204702
View attachment 204703
View attachment 204704
More work to do but not bad for a first 50 micron rough shape and form test shot.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
I want one!
Oops. Apologies - wants are not allowed, are they...
Brian
Brian, I think it should have been: Please may I have one?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Sometimes you have to go backward to go forward. No clean up or processing so all warts and glory laid bare, rankles me when folks tell you at shows 3D is not model making and you just push the button, muppets!
Change of orientation and the end result just feeds the bin monster, typically it'll take 4-6 prints to get the optimum orientation and settings, each one about 17 hours long.
Sometimes it's easier to live with a less than perfect print if you can post process, things like small layer lines are easier and faster to process after the print than looking for the optimum orientation to remove them during printing.
The window failures are simply down to exceeding the materials abilities, aka I'm making the edges too thin (0.3 mm).
In brutal reality 3D is totally the wrong medium to do this sort of work and for larger runs you'd have to etch most of the model with supplementary 3D parts.
I've got some ideas for internal structures to help the lower front edge, the bow down and outward is simply down to hydraulic compression forces during printing and a lot of that is also dependent on room and resin temp. More supports is not the answer, in fact the extra mass can have a negative effect.
Change of orientation and the end result just feeds the bin monster, typically it'll take 4-6 prints to get the optimum orientation and settings, each one about 17 hours long.
Sometimes it's easier to live with a less than perfect print if you can post process, things like small layer lines are easier and faster to process after the print than looking for the optimum orientation to remove them during printing.
The window failures are simply down to exceeding the materials abilities, aka I'm making the edges too thin (0.3 mm).
In brutal reality 3D is totally the wrong medium to do this sort of work and for larger runs you'd have to etch most of the model with supplementary 3D parts.
I've got some ideas for internal structures to help the lower front edge, the bow down and outward is simply down to hydraulic compression forces during printing and a lot of that is also dependent on room and resin temp. More supports is not the answer, in fact the extra mass can have a negative effect.
SimonT
Western Thunderer
The upper edge of a window opening seems to be the hardest bit to do. I'm playing with sash widows for station buildings and find that for my printer a flatish tilt of 6-10degrees works best. That won't help with the cab.
Impressed by bits of both runs, The radiator grills are a major success. Enjoy Crimbo!
Impressed by bits of both runs, The radiator grills are a major success. Enjoy Crimbo!
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Mk I was dual angles of orientation, Mk II was single and it shows. I added a sacrificial edge to the windscreen frame and it was stronger than the frame so snapped off there and not where it was designed too. The single orientation has also made the tops of the side windows bow a little as well.
The front edge can be solved with a much deeper sacrificial skirt, something like +20 mm usually cures that but I want to try something a little less agricultural first.
A more shallow angle has pushed the final few layer steps up from the edge of the roof near the rivets to the about15% up the curve, I call that pushing the error. you can spend days/weeks with orientation and settings to reduce those steps or you can push them to an area that's easy to clean up with a bit of sand paper in 5 minutes.
Often you'll solve one issue and another will crop up somewhere else, like the arcade wack a mole game really.
The grills were a carry over from the EM2, as were the headlight units so I knew they were good to go, I have to confess I do like the hint of the support rod running up through the vanes.
The front edge can be solved with a much deeper sacrificial skirt, something like +20 mm usually cures that but I want to try something a little less agricultural first.
A more shallow angle has pushed the final few layer steps up from the edge of the roof near the rivets to the about15% up the curve, I call that pushing the error. you can spend days/weeks with orientation and settings to reduce those steps or you can push them to an area that's easy to clean up with a bit of sand paper in 5 minutes.
Often you'll solve one issue and another will crop up somewhere else, like the arcade wack a mole game really.
The grills were a carry over from the EM2, as were the headlight units so I knew they were good to go, I have to confess I do like the hint of the support rod running up through the vanes.
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oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Still want one...
mickoo
Western Thunderer
You know it makes sense; I'm fairly sure I read the GC main line south of Sheffield was on the cards for 1500v DC upgrade, shame they stopped at Woodhouse, they should have kept going.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Levels of expectation, that's the problem, if you lower them then it's perfect
mickoo
Western Thunderer
After posting the EM1 cab on FB the conversation turned to other subjects and someone asked if I was interested in SR EMU's, yes and I had planned to do the cab front to suit a suitable donor MK I. Having completed the chores on the 850 build I threw the Lego Monkeys some blue smarties and let them at the keyboard.
It was just an idle lets see what happens (fill a couple of hours) exercise and unlike the EM1 with hours of deliberation and planning has come out far better than the time expended. Seems Sloe Gin has it's uses!
Sometimes things just drop into place, negating the school boy error by not checking the MU cavity in Xray mode, the rest turned out pretty good; there's a couple of areas I want to tweak a little (cab windows and MU cavity for certain), but fundamentally it's there I think. There's two types of cab window surround and then in the later years with the high intensity headlight, plus some more door details and I might add the rubbing plate plate work and fixings....because I can.
There is some layering on the top edge but that'd go with a few seconds of a wipe with wet n dry.
It was just an idle lets see what happens (fill a couple of hours) exercise and unlike the EM1 with hours of deliberation and planning has come out far better than the time expended. Seems Sloe Gin has it's uses!
Sometimes things just drop into place, negating the school boy error by not checking the MU cavity in Xray mode, the rest turned out pretty good; there's a couple of areas I want to tweak a little (cab windows and MU cavity for certain), but fundamentally it's there I think. There's two types of cab window surround and then in the later years with the high intensity headlight, plus some more door details and I might add the rubbing plate plate work and fixings....because I can.
There is some layering on the top edge but that'd go with a few seconds of a wipe with wet n dry.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Update on the SR EMU cab front, I think it's close now so will wait for the bits from Easybuild and add the adapter plug and offer it up.
Changes (discussed elsewhere but not here) are cab windows, MU receptacle, centre door, rubbing plates and corridor connector profile.
Often once assembled into a complete complete model it shows up little niggles that throw the eye out and require further tweaks.
I do need to increase the joint gap between the rubbing plates at the top, the bottom ones work fine to give some detail but the top one needs a little tweak to make it more visible.
I also had to increase the window surrounds to 0.6 mm depth for better printing, not as good as etch depths but better than most RTR, I'll add some glazing in the next few days and post a picture up, that'll be the true acid test.
Changes (discussed elsewhere but not here) are cab windows, MU receptacle, centre door, rubbing plates and corridor connector profile.
Often once assembled into a complete complete model it shows up little niggles that throw the eye out and require further tweaks.
I do need to increase the joint gap between the rubbing plates at the top, the bottom ones work fine to give some detail but the top one needs a little tweak to make it more visible.
I also had to increase the window surrounds to 0.6 mm depth for better printing, not as good as etch depths but better than most RTR, I'll add some glazing in the next few days and post a picture up, that'll be the true acid test.