Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Also worth mentioning is that if you spread some talcum powder on your file before filing whitemetal it helps prevent them from clogging.
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
Owen English
Member
And Blackboard chalk for brass!
Martin Shaw
Western Thunderer
When I replaced a lot of files I got them from ArcEuroTrade in Syston. They import Tome Feteira files from Portugal where they have been making them since 1856. I've no complaints and they are somewhat less expensive than Vallorbe.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Link for those interested: Engineering Tools | Lathe | Milling Machine | Model Engineering | arceurotrade.co.uk
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Correct
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Never worked for me I’m afraid, same as waxing fret saw blades….fish wives tales
Kudos to all it does work for though
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Good sharp files should not clog with brass, copper maybe but certainly not brass.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Vallorbe fret saw blades for me to, last ages if properly tensioned.
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Having the best quality is great, if you can afford it. Excellent work can also be done with inferior tools.
I am not trying to be controversial here but having watched all three of Alice Roberts recent Digging Britain series on tv I am astounded at the quality of some of the workmanship evident in artefacts hundreds of years old. None would have had access to the type of tools we are used to now and certainly not Vallorbe quality.
Just how did ancient artisans cut the teeth on a bone comb?
How did they make the fine filigree jewellery found in the Sutton Hoo boat burial and elsewhere?
Just how did they get controllable heat to make glass enamel without melting the gold surround?
There are umpteen other questions on techniques and tools so next time you break a blade and replace it with a new one from the packet, think on!
Ian.
I am not trying to be controversial here but having watched all three of Alice Roberts recent Digging Britain series on tv I am astounded at the quality of some of the workmanship evident in artefacts hundreds of years old. None would have had access to the type of tools we are used to now and certainly not Vallorbe quality.
Just how did ancient artisans cut the teeth on a bone comb?
How did they make the fine filigree jewellery found in the Sutton Hoo boat burial and elsewhere?
Just how did they get controllable heat to make glass enamel without melting the gold surround?
There are umpteen other questions on techniques and tools so next time you break a blade and replace it with a new one from the packet, think on!
Ian.
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Being a Yokshire born pensioner, I’m careful with my money (My ex-wife calls me tight fisted, same thing)
I try to make do with the tools that I’ve acquired over the years. I do reserve the cheapest files for whitemetal work.
Tim T
I try to make do with the tools that I’ve acquired over the years. I do reserve the cheapest files for whitemetal work.
Tim T
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Yes, excellent work can be done on inferior tools but by the same token, inferior work can be done with excellent tools.
At the end of the day, I'm a shallow, vain tool snob and I'm sad to say, they make me so happy
To be fair the results you get with your 'tool snob' tools are exceptional. I think you can safely justify their purchase!
On the other hand I suspect I have every proper tool user turning away in disgust... Tool abuse and misuse are rife in Pencarrow Towers and I regularly commit the mother of all sins, using files without a handle.
Sorry, there is no hope for me.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
As we say when we're out in a boat, ten miles from land - "All the gear. No idea". That doesn't apply to anyone I've seen on here. Even starters are using the experience of those who've gone before to create better results than they otherwise would have and quite often with the tools bought cheaply because they all look good value, don't they? Experience leads to an understanding that decent quality tools can create good results easier and quicker.
I've expounded previously that I started with really cheap tools which made it possible to build stuff and as they wore out or broke I could afford to replace them one at a time with superior quality tools, a decision I've never had cause to regret. (That's not to say that I don't abuse some of them).
Brian
I've expounded previously that I started with really cheap tools which made it possible to build stuff and as they wore out or broke I could afford to replace them one at a time with superior quality tools, a decision I've never had cause to regret. (That's not to say that I don't abuse some of them).
Brian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Sometimes you should just say no, my mind said no, but my words said yes....sigh 
As a rule I never work on other peoples work, but sometimes my common sense evades me, more so when the client produces a shoe box and asks if there's any chance they can be resurrected/finished. You always open the box like it's full of funnel web spiders.
A quick look during hand over revealed a surprising pile of rather well made pieces, lots missing but what was there is actually rather good and certainly worth the effort to continue. Sadly they have languished for many years (over ten I'm led to believe) and it hasn't done the Harris wheels any favours so pretty much all the wheels are corroded and bonded nice and tight to the axle boxes.
One engine has inside motion but it's loose and during it's travels in the shoe box has suffered quite badly, it might actually be cheaper to cut it all out and fit new etched rods etc.
The package should have consisted of two Barnums and an Aberdare, sharp of eye will note the distinct lack of an Aberdare engine, yet it's tender is here....I think. The two Barnums are from different era's/batches and I think I've matched the right tenders to each engine. Neither engine has any cab detail or brakes and both have a few details missing, possibly in the dozens of little tins and bags that litter the bottom of the box.
Two of the tenders look almost 100% complete but both will benefit from a solder seam along the base of the tank sides to close up the gap, the third tender I think has most of the parts scattered around the box.
As for the Aberdare, the hunt is still on back at source to find the errant engine
First job will be a total strip down and clean up, assess all the loose bits and try to match them with holes or gaps in the engines.
I've posted the 'before' photos primarily so that the original builder gets due credit for his work, it's predominately neat and clean, just aged. A good clean, polish and tidy up will see some nice models emerge.
These will slot in any spare time between the 2-4-2T, Buffalo and another full metal jacket BLP.
As a rule I never work on other peoples work, but sometimes my common sense evades me, more so when the client produces a shoe box and asks if there's any chance they can be resurrected/finished. You always open the box like it's full of funnel web spiders.
A quick look during hand over revealed a surprising pile of rather well made pieces, lots missing but what was there is actually rather good and certainly worth the effort to continue. Sadly they have languished for many years (over ten I'm led to believe) and it hasn't done the Harris wheels any favours so pretty much all the wheels are corroded and bonded nice and tight to the axle boxes.
One engine has inside motion but it's loose and during it's travels in the shoe box has suffered quite badly, it might actually be cheaper to cut it all out and fit new etched rods etc.
The package should have consisted of two Barnums and an Aberdare, sharp of eye will note the distinct lack of an Aberdare engine, yet it's tender is here....I think. The two Barnums are from different era's/batches and I think I've matched the right tenders to each engine. Neither engine has any cab detail or brakes and both have a few details missing, possibly in the dozens of little tins and bags that litter the bottom of the box.
Two of the tenders look almost 100% complete but both will benefit from a solder seam along the base of the tank sides to close up the gap, the third tender I think has most of the parts scattered around the box.
As for the Aberdare, the hunt is still on back at source to find the errant engine
First job will be a total strip down and clean up, assess all the loose bits and try to match them with holes or gaps in the engines.
I've posted the 'before' photos primarily so that the original builder gets due credit for his work, it's predominately neat and clean, just aged. A good clean, polish and tidy up will see some nice models emerge.
These will slot in any spare time between the 2-4-2T, Buffalo and another full metal jacket BLP.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Jumping around a bit this month, lots of projects on the go in an effort to maximize bench time.
Most of the LNWR 2-4-2T chassis is done, couple of niggles with the etches, nothing a file and scribe couldn't resolve or a rivet punch.
I'll need to 3D the inside cylinder block shortly, then the slide bars and motion bracket can go in. I'm still not sure how or where to make the split between the upper footplate section and lower chassis section at the front; on the real engine the smokebox front is also integral with the cylinder block front and visible through that great big hole in the footplate behind the buffer beam.
Whilst I keep putting that design conundrum off I'll sort the brake gear and then it'll have to be tackled head on.
Most of the LNWR 2-4-2T chassis is done, couple of niggles with the etches, nothing a file and scribe couldn't resolve or a rivet punch.
I'll need to 3D the inside cylinder block shortly, then the slide bars and motion bracket can go in. I'm still not sure how or where to make the split between the upper footplate section and lower chassis section at the front; on the real engine the smokebox front is also integral with the cylinder block front and visible through that great big hole in the footplate behind the buffer beam.
Whilst I keep putting that design conundrum off I'll sort the brake gear and then it'll have to be tackled head on.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob , can you tell me how to sharpen the end of a scraper that was made from an old file . My friend who was a toolmaker never showed me how to sharpen it and then popped his clogs , I'll have words with him when we next meet .
Yes i do have a bench grinder plus a silicone carbide wheel and an Aluminum oxide as well .
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Paul,
I will start a separate thread to take this discussion away from further highjacking Mick's thread
mickoo
Western Thunderer
As one or two of you may know, I do a bit of 3D printing here and there and for practical reasons the printer is in my study, it's a moderate room (15'x 7') and heated.
There's been a lot written about the dangers (real or perceived) about resin printers and the resin itself so I got a little curious after seeing some rather bizzare set ups people have for their printers, bio tents, forced extraction etc etc. Some Cannabis growers could learn a lot from these guys
It is a toxic material and you shouldn't drink it and avoid touching it, eye protection is recommended as well, but what about fumes, great if you can smell but I can't so I've no idea if there are fumes or not. In the end I took the plunge and purchased a TVOC meter, it's those that could be causing the most long term harm, the physical contact is easily dealt with by using appropriate PPE and common sense, but fumes?
Base values are, and there are many charts out there with slightly differing values so these are broad values.
<300 ppm is excellent and safe
<500 ppm is safe
>500 -1000 ppm it's okay but you should be ventilating
>1000-3000 ppm not good and needs lots of ventilation
>3000-5000 ppm very poor and requires forced ventilation
>5000 ppm you really should be looking at alternative options.
Of course duration of exposure is important and few tables list that, it should also be noted that nail varnish remover, white spirits and other house hold chemicals used daily by millions can easily be in the 2-5000 ppm bracket.
Anyway, to the crux, Saturn 2 with Siraya tech fast navy grey after a four hour print (resin is at peak temperature.
That's an open vat (of highly toxic material according to some), yet the gasses and fumes emitted are below the target 300 ppm or in the meters case 0.3mg/m³.
Suddenly I'm very much at ease with my printer in a domestic environment, however, I opened the tub of IPA to one side and with in 60 seconds the meter flipped out at a max 5000.
Now whether those fumes are harmful I've no idea, much like White spirits and Turps I suspect, or other house hold cleaners. Long term and constant exposure I'm confident they will be but short term two or three times a day for a few minutes? I've no idea.
Typically it takes me 60-120 seconds to clean a part ready for the UV station and it takes the room 20 minutes once the lid is back on to return to <300 ppm it'd be quicker if I opened a window, probably 2-3 minutes truth be told. A simple fan extraction would be useful but I'm loathe to drill big holes in walls.
There are lots of air quality meters on the market, ranging form £30 to £300, not all give you all the tests, this one is quite good as it measures several types of pollutant. If your concerned about printers and fumes then grab yourself one to put your mind at rest, but don't be surprised if ordinary things you've used openly for years flag up as unhealthy, Disaronno 3500 ppm, red wine 5000+ ppm, Gin 5000+ ppm
There's been a lot written about the dangers (real or perceived) about resin printers and the resin itself so I got a little curious after seeing some rather bizzare set ups people have for their printers, bio tents, forced extraction etc etc. Some Cannabis growers could learn a lot from these guys
It is a toxic material and you shouldn't drink it and avoid touching it, eye protection is recommended as well, but what about fumes, great if you can smell but I can't so I've no idea if there are fumes or not. In the end I took the plunge and purchased a TVOC meter, it's those that could be causing the most long term harm, the physical contact is easily dealt with by using appropriate PPE and common sense, but fumes?
Base values are, and there are many charts out there with slightly differing values so these are broad values.
<300 ppm is excellent and safe
<500 ppm is safe
>500 -1000 ppm it's okay but you should be ventilating
>1000-3000 ppm not good and needs lots of ventilation
>3000-5000 ppm very poor and requires forced ventilation
>5000 ppm you really should be looking at alternative options.
Of course duration of exposure is important and few tables list that, it should also be noted that nail varnish remover, white spirits and other house hold chemicals used daily by millions can easily be in the 2-5000 ppm bracket.
Anyway, to the crux, Saturn 2 with Siraya tech fast navy grey after a four hour print (resin is at peak temperature.
That's an open vat (of highly toxic material according to some), yet the gasses and fumes emitted are below the target 300 ppm or in the meters case 0.3mg/m³.
Suddenly I'm very much at ease with my printer in a domestic environment, however, I opened the tub of IPA to one side and with in 60 seconds the meter flipped out at a max 5000.
Now whether those fumes are harmful I've no idea, much like White spirits and Turps I suspect, or other house hold cleaners. Long term and constant exposure I'm confident they will be but short term two or three times a day for a few minutes? I've no idea.
Typically it takes me 60-120 seconds to clean a part ready for the UV station and it takes the room 20 minutes once the lid is back on to return to <300 ppm it'd be quicker if I opened a window, probably 2-3 minutes truth be told. A simple fan extraction would be useful but I'm loathe to drill big holes in walls.
There are lots of air quality meters on the market, ranging form £30 to £300, not all give you all the tests, this one is quite good as it measures several types of pollutant. If your concerned about printers and fumes then grab yourself one to put your mind at rest, but don't be surprised if ordinary things you've used openly for years flag up as unhealthy, Disaronno 3500 ppm, red wine 5000+ ppm, Gin 5000+ ppm
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
What is OK in terms of alcohol? Port, Limoncello, Baileys, whisky, schnapps or grappa? Bah humbug!