Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
IWOOT!
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
BLP Lego all installed, nothing no one hasn't seen before.
I just need to pin the hangers to the springs and then finish the brake rodding to finish this section off.
With luck I'll also get the drain cocks and linkages done tomorrow along with the injector bodies, pipework will have to wait until the cab and casing are in place.
I just need to pin the hangers to the springs and then finish the brake rodding to finish this section off.
With luck I'll also get the drain cocks and linkages done tomorrow along with the injector bodies, pipework will have to wait until the cab and casing are in place.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
I know you've done a few of these now Mick but the progress photos and updates are still very interesting. Whilst the builds may be becoming routine I still think your approach is developing and getting better with each one. A long way round of saying keep posting photos and updates...
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Dave,
No I’m not, these stay firmly with myself, as do all my 3D printed works. The reasons are not for the public, other than they safeguard both parties.
I’ve done a few bits to upgrade the Finney kit with etched extras, like corrected cab sheet work (included in the kit) wheel overlays, cab interior framework and alternative smoke deflectors etc.
But currently (and foreseeable future) all 3D remains distinctly with myself.
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Only just seen this but.... Scrum-diddly-umptious!Lets start again in the right thread
First of the Bulleids is back up on it's feet and rolling nicely. Next step is all the details and internal parts.
I've decided to go with micro magnets to hold the smokebox door closed, though just the small amount of paint that's got in the hinges is enough friction to hold it closed quite well.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
This is the first FMJ just going across the desk in it's rebuild, there have been changes along the way but essentially it ends up looking like this.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Spinning more plates here, finally got around to fitting the sliding sand cover doors, they work....phew! Next up the 3D sand filler behind which I'll draw up shortly and fit.
The smoke box door design has been constantly evolving, getting it to move freely and hold shut with the magnets has taken more time that I envisaged. It now all works, though the door and sealing ring parts could benefit from a slight revision.
The old parts work fine but the revised parts may just make life a touch easier; I'll have a play in the next few days and test it on engine #2.
The smoke box door design has been constantly evolving, getting it to move freely and hold shut with the magnets has taken more time that I envisaged. It now all works, though the door and sealing ring parts could benefit from a slight revision.
The old parts work fine but the revised parts may just make life a touch easier; I'll have a play in the next few days and test it on engine #2.
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Absolutely stunning modelling.
Tim T
Tim T
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
I don't know if it's me, logged in on my phone, but I can't see or open the attachments in posts 2787 and 2788!
I can see them on my laptop: objects of beauty as you would expect!
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Visible on my Android phone
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Mick.
In many of your posts, the printed parts - especially those permanently attached to metallic components - look to have been red oxide primed. Is that to protect them from subsequent etch primer? In the latest Finney Bulleid they look to be as printed. Will these be primed before painting the whole chassis?
Dave.
In many of your posts, the printed parts - especially those permanently attached to metallic components - look to have been red oxide primed. Is that to protect them from subsequent etch primer? In the latest Finney Bulleid they look to be as printed. Will these be primed before painting the whole chassis?
Dave.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Dave, possibly not, red oxide filler primer is used to look for issues and to fill any small imperfections etc, it's more important for top side stuff and less so for chassis stuff.
There's also a bit of vanity in painting it red oxide to highlight it for viewers, but it comes at a cost in time; for topside stuff then I'd still do it, but for chassis stuff then there's no real advantage, especially if time is tight or a deadline is approaching.
The final model appearance also has a big impact, if it's going to be glossy factory then the prints have to be really smooth and the extra layer from the filler primer helps, if it's going to be weathered or the part is matt then any small imperfections are invisible.
The Buffalo saddle tank is high gloss finish so took about four days to prep and spray, the down side is that if the painter sprays thinners on it or a wet coat with a high level of thinners in it, then it'll wash out all the filler primer. You can go from hero to zero very quickly when painting 3D prints, it's a whole new way of doing things.
The current Bulleid is late in life and will be weathered, it also needs several inspection hatches removed or opened, so I need to model what's behind as well. If I painted the chassis in gloss black it would reveal very faint layer lines (0.05mm or less), spray the same model satin and they're only visible under a magnifier and at the right lighting angle, spray it matt and they're invisible.
At the risk of committing public hari-kari here's some shots of the 2P, this was the change over point for me in understanding the whole process from CAD to finished model, you have to think about the finally product right back at the CAD design stage, you can save yourself a lot of work.
Here's the model with filler primer on, we're looking at the smoke box, it looks smooth and has been prepped as such.
Here's the same model with gloss black, notice the faint layer lines; they're actually compression and suction lines rather than layers and I run new settings to reduce these now. You can just see the faint diagonal lines across the smoke box.
This is the same model, no changes to the surface (except oily thumb print) with matt paint and weathering.
There's way more to the whole process than just throwing smarties at the CAD monkeys and sticking the resultant Lego on the model I'm afraid.
I'll readily admit the lines on the 2P when it came back were a big surprise, I dropped the ball on the prep work, luckily the client wanted weathered which I knew would work.
It's all part of learning to work with the new material, but that was a miss that was too close; I went back and re-evaluated my processes, print settings and work flow to help reduce these artifacts.
There's also a bit of vanity in painting it red oxide to highlight it for viewers, but it comes at a cost in time; for topside stuff then I'd still do it, but for chassis stuff then there's no real advantage, especially if time is tight or a deadline is approaching.
The final model appearance also has a big impact, if it's going to be glossy factory then the prints have to be really smooth and the extra layer from the filler primer helps, if it's going to be weathered or the part is matt then any small imperfections are invisible.
The Buffalo saddle tank is high gloss finish so took about four days to prep and spray, the down side is that if the painter sprays thinners on it or a wet coat with a high level of thinners in it, then it'll wash out all the filler primer. You can go from hero to zero very quickly when painting 3D prints, it's a whole new way of doing things.
The current Bulleid is late in life and will be weathered, it also needs several inspection hatches removed or opened, so I need to model what's behind as well. If I painted the chassis in gloss black it would reveal very faint layer lines (0.05mm or less), spray the same model satin and they're only visible under a magnifier and at the right lighting angle, spray it matt and they're invisible.
At the risk of committing public hari-kari here's some shots of the 2P, this was the change over point for me in understanding the whole process from CAD to finished model, you have to think about the finally product right back at the CAD design stage, you can save yourself a lot of work.
Here's the model with filler primer on, we're looking at the smoke box, it looks smooth and has been prepped as such.
Here's the same model with gloss black, notice the faint layer lines; they're actually compression and suction lines rather than layers and I run new settings to reduce these now. You can just see the faint diagonal lines across the smoke box.
This is the same model, no changes to the surface (except oily thumb print) with matt paint and weathering.
There's way more to the whole process than just throwing smarties at the CAD monkeys and sticking the resultant Lego on the model I'm afraid.
I'll readily admit the lines on the 2P when it came back were a big surprise, I dropped the ball on the prep work, luckily the client wanted weathered which I knew would work.
It's all part of learning to work with the new material, but that was a miss that was too close; I went back and re-evaluated my processes, print settings and work flow to help reduce these artifacts.
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Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
David/Chris,
I can see them when logged in using my laptop, but not with my Android phone...strange.
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Great work as usual
Great work as usual
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Telling it as it is, usually get me in a lot of trouble
cmax
Western Thunderer
But that's what we like about you Mick, no Bull**** please carry on as you are, your models are superb, you are up there with the best of them, in fact, you are in a league of your own, not afraid to try new the new tech out, and use accordingly, the Giesl and smokebox prints, a case in point.Telling it as it is, usually get me in a lot of trouble
Gary
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Mick.
Thank you very much for such a thorough and frank explanation.
My question arose because I have commissioned (both CAD & printing) some printed detailing parts on my latest 4 mm scale model (C13 in Area 51), which is my first experience with this process. Having seen your primed parts, I asked the supplier about painting his items and he expressed a slight concern that metal etch primers might embrittle the print material so a protective primer might help. As many of the parts are quite tiny, they would be hard to paint with an aerosol can without being blown away, so I was thinking of decanting some Halfords Plastic Primer and brush painting the relevant parts.
As commissioned parts, I obviously have no control over layers or print orientation but the items look quite smooth under slight magnification, even in the raw. My model will be heavily weathered, so perhaps the surface finish is not too critical, as you mention.
Thanks again and please keep posting your informative and inspiring post of your work.
Dave.
Thank you very much for such a thorough and frank explanation.
My question arose because I have commissioned (both CAD & printing) some printed detailing parts on my latest 4 mm scale model (C13 in Area 51), which is my first experience with this process. Having seen your primed parts, I asked the supplier about painting his items and he expressed a slight concern that metal etch primers might embrittle the print material so a protective primer might help. As many of the parts are quite tiny, they would be hard to paint with an aerosol can without being blown away, so I was thinking of decanting some Halfords Plastic Primer and brush painting the relevant parts.
As commissioned parts, I obviously have no control over layers or print orientation but the items look quite smooth under slight magnification, even in the raw. My model will be heavily weathered, so perhaps the surface finish is not too critical, as you mention.
Thanks again and please keep posting your informative and inspiring post of your work.
Dave.