7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Wow! if I was independently wealthy I would commission you to do one of those GWR Dukes in 1/32, you might not be a fan of GWR but I am.
Outstanding work sir!

Michael
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Wow! if I was independently wealthy I would commission you to do one of those GWR Dukes in 1/32, you might not be a fan of GWR but I am.
Outstanding work sir!

Michael
It's not that expensive :)) Well that could be relative I suppose :cool:

A set of 1:32 etches isn't overtly difficult, the hardest parts would be wheels and some fittings like polished dome, safety valve cover and chimney, you could probably get away with a 3D chimney and turned copper cap fitted to the top.

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
One down, one to go, Finney7 BLP 4500G high sided tender.

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I replaced the reservoir tank ends and TIA tank with 3D prints, the kit ones must have been a Friday afternoon batch, they did make a satisfying clinking as they rattled toward the bottom of the bin.
 
Great to see the Bulleid`s progressing Mick. Your right about the white metal castings, i threw mine in the bin and fabricated the TIA tank and turned the tank ends. Hope to see some build pics for the loco front ends and casings.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Great to see the Bulleid`s progressing Mick. Your right about the white metal castings, i threw mine in the bin and fabricated the TIA tank and turned the tank ends. Hope to see some build pics for the loco front ends and casings.
Turned tanks ends would be better, or complete 3D tanks.

I did toy with complete 3D tanks but that makes it impossible to solder the retaining strap on, you need to do that.....well I have..... so that the whole tank assembly can be removed for paint. It'd be impossible to spray in, around and under the tanks other wise; for that reason I've diverted the TIA feed under the tank manifold pipework and not over.

Having said that...and the light bulb moment when writing the above.....I can print the tanks and pedestals as one piece and secure that to the tank top and not rely on the strap to hold the tanks together. Currently the strap and manifold pipework are the only things holding the tanks together as the pedestals are all ready secured to the tank top.

I do have a concern over the different materials when painted, you may still see the material witness mark where the two join, even though they have been bonded together and turned in the lathe.

A complete 3D tank set up could also have the correct wooden blocks that actually touch the tanks rather than the under etched fold up affair, tank spacing is defined by the white metal pedestal, the pedestal centres are not the same as the tank strap centres :headbang: I suspect there's an element of shrunken malformed pedestals and etch tolerances at play as well.

Correct blocks with a rebate to site a new strap would be the way to go, I foresee another mini module brewing ;), it'd save hours of work faffing around with the brass tube and bin fodder white metal.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Wow it almost looks like you have given up on the invisible solder and resorted to glue:))

Michael
Adhesives are a valuable weapon in ones arsenal.

Used in the right context and with secondary support work very well.

Personally, there's still too much solder showing, it shows up terribly when cleaning with an aggressive chemical agent.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
That's better, one complete package to just drop in place. The tank strap i'll sort later with the second tender, basically a 1.5 mm wide 10 thou strap with bent ends and wire studs to hold in place.

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That as we say in the trade is 'working smarter not harder' :thumbs:

I still can't get over how crisp this new printer is, zero post processing other than smoothing the support pips off.
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
How did you fix the stays on the insides of the top of the tank sides? I had to make several contributions to the swear box while trying to get those at the front in place.

Dave
 

simond

Western Thunderer
'working smarter not harder'

I had a boss years back came out with that phrase. I wasn’t popular for asking if he’d asked the competition to dumb down a bit while we caught up…

joking aside, it’s pretty clear that multimedia is the way to go, the tank assembly is really neat.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
How did you fix the stays on the insides of the top of the tank sides? I had to make several contributions to the swear box while trying to get those at the front in place.

Dave
Well there's a little trick there, two actually.

The first is to attach the ribs to the side before it's fitted, the accuracy of the etch allows you to do that if you're careful with your placement. I was tipped off, thoughts confirmed, by fellow Finney7 crew that this was the best way forward so that little tip will now go in the instructions.

The second is the method of attaching, I place the rib in the slot, cut a sliver of solder and place against the rib and inner side at the top, then I heat it from the outside with a very hot iron (400°C), you need to flux the outside and tin the tip to get a good heat transfer. The sliver of solder will liquefy and run down the etched slot to hold the rib in place......hopefully. Sometimes the little sprites leap about as the flux spits and boils off.

If it doesn't take the first time then remove and clean the metal and try again, trying to continue without cleaning is a tale of woe as the metal will have a smear or dirty flux and tarnished surface after the first attempt.

There's 14 to do and 12 went perfectly, two were a right pain and refused to solder from the outside so it was in with the big tip on the inside and scrubbing with a fibre brush to clean up afterward.

I tend not to tin the rib edge that goes in the slot, I think if I did then I'd get 14 out of 14, another way would be to place a sliver of solder in the slots and warm with a micro torch so that you get a thin fillet in the slot, then when holding the rib in place and heating from the outside it should flow and grab. The trick will be to not fill the slot or else you will loose your positioning reference.

I'll try both ways on the next sides and post photos if it'll help.

I did show the heat from the outside tip a few years back on another tender I was building, somewhere back in all these pages were some photos and blurb.

You do end up with solder on the outside but it is easier to clean that off a large flat surface than it is to clean inside.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
I tend not to tin the rib edge that goes in the slot, I think if I did then I'd get 14 out of 14, another way would be to place a sliver of solder in the slots and warm with a micro torch so that you get a thin fillet in the slot, then when holding the rib in place and heating from the outside it should flow and grab. The trick will be to not fill the slot or else you will loose your positioning
Mick,

You could use solder paste initially and then add a sliver of your preferred solder afterwards.

Ian
 
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