Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Just back from Barrow Road, I'll edit this post in due course to give a fuller report. But, in the mean time...
Stay safe
Mike.
Stay safe
Mike.
Mike G's Workspace.
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Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Quick update on the 63xx...
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Forever the pessimistQuick update on the 63xx...
View attachment 264162
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
I have some sympathy with this point of view, Mike, especially if the absence of the overlays isn't that obvious when the loco is complete, painted, weathered and in operation on the layout. Far more important in my view is a loco that runs well and looks good in overall terms.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
You're absolutely right Captain, running before looks.
You know I said no problems so far...
Once I got the crossheads together, I found that the left hand side was...sticky and far too sticky to ignore. Now I could have used a thinner piston (and probably should have), but I decided to ream out the piston lining. 1.1 mm drill went in did the business and there was a definite improvement, but still not good enough. So in went a 1.2mm drill, down to the bottom of the lining and reverse when suddenly there was a sickening crack and only one third of the drill came out! No, I'm not kidding.
Options:
1. Remove the cylinder cover and then remove the piston liner.
2. Cut the liner in half (hopefully cutting the remaining drill bit at the same time) and then remove the liner.
3. Drill the front piston cover and bash the living day lights out of the drill bit and force it out.
Guess which option I went for, yep, hit and hope. But it did work and saved an enormous amount of work.
I've only ever built 2 etched fireboxes before and one of those was scratch built - the GWR County - I have deep reservations of bending brass around brass that 0.3mm wide, especially when there are some complex curves in one piece.
This is how I started the job.
There are 4 location points in the end pieces, but getting them straight and the right width apart is a challenge. All the holes accepted 0.9mm brass rod, the first one has to be accurately located, otherwise your wasting your time.
I then added some 4mm round tube and soldered those to the shoulders of each corner. It's a case of cut marginally over size and file back for a good fit. Bit like this...
Not as perfect as I'd like but it does line up straight with the front cab etch. Then starting from the centre of the end etches formed with wide wooden lolly pop sticks, saved blistering my dear little pinkies. Bend, solder, bend solder...little bit at a time.
Still some work to do on this with the details. I have cut out the all the bits that make up the footplate and that's next. Pretty pleased with the firebox.
Stay safe
Mike.
You know I said no problems so far...
Once I got the crossheads together, I found that the left hand side was...sticky and far too sticky to ignore. Now I could have used a thinner piston (and probably should have), but I decided to ream out the piston lining. 1.1 mm drill went in did the business and there was a definite improvement, but still not good enough. So in went a 1.2mm drill, down to the bottom of the lining and reverse when suddenly there was a sickening crack and only one third of the drill came out! No, I'm not kidding.
Options:
1. Remove the cylinder cover and then remove the piston liner.
2. Cut the liner in half (hopefully cutting the remaining drill bit at the same time) and then remove the liner.
3. Drill the front piston cover and bash the living day lights out of the drill bit and force it out.
Guess which option I went for, yep, hit and hope. But it did work and saved an enormous amount of work.
I've only ever built 2 etched fireboxes before and one of those was scratch built - the GWR County - I have deep reservations of bending brass around brass that 0.3mm wide, especially when there are some complex curves in one piece.
This is how I started the job.
There are 4 location points in the end pieces, but getting them straight and the right width apart is a challenge. All the holes accepted 0.9mm brass rod, the first one has to be accurately located, otherwise your wasting your time.
I then added some 4mm round tube and soldered those to the shoulders of each corner. It's a case of cut marginally over size and file back for a good fit. Bit like this...
Not as perfect as I'd like but it does line up straight with the front cab etch. Then starting from the centre of the end etches formed with wide wooden lolly pop sticks, saved blistering my dear little pinkies. Bend, solder, bend solder...little bit at a time.
Still some work to do on this with the details. I have cut out the all the bits that make up the footplate and that's next. Pretty pleased with the firebox.
Stay safe
Mike.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi Simontop marks for the use of a vernier as a g-cramp….
Thanks, the vernier is set to the correct width of the firebox etch. Hence the blue tack to stop the blocks from moving. All the G clamps I have have wobbly tops and I needed something that wouldn't wobble.
Mike.
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
A good and pragmatic approach to the firebox, Mike, looks very good indeed.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Probably better that than as a scriber .top marks for the use of a vernier as a g-cramp….
paulc
Western Thunderer
But doesn't the plastic wear out ?
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Upmost in my modeling this week has been the footplate and some other stuff.
The cab front has received it's spectacle windows - both types - the cab steps have also been completed. But the main theme has been the footplate.
Not looking too shabby. Having now studied the castings in detail, I do not appear to have the bell shaped casting that sits in the middle of the lower / front footplate. Cannot remember the name of it for the life of me! Has anyone any idea where one of this part can be obtained? I've checked my usual suppliers (looking at photos, until the name drops into my empty head) without success. I may end up scratching this using...who knows what.
No dramas - so far - but I'm not that far in. To keep this piece of work flat I pinned it to the piece of wood bonded with thick cork, which you can see in the photos.
I do have an identity crisis...are these drain cocks? Never come across cast drain cocks before.
Any help with the ongoing pieces will be much appreciated. Not quite sure where I'm going with this tomorrow, I do have to manufacture some steam pipe covers (and that process is already under way - but I forgot to photograph this). At some point I have to detail the firebox, so I guess that's now on the radar as well.
Stay safe
Mike.
The cab front has received it's spectacle windows - both types - the cab steps have also been completed. But the main theme has been the footplate.
Not looking too shabby. Having now studied the castings in detail, I do not appear to have the bell shaped casting that sits in the middle of the lower / front footplate. Cannot remember the name of it for the life of me! Has anyone any idea where one of this part can be obtained? I've checked my usual suppliers (looking at photos, until the name drops into my empty head) without success. I may end up scratching this using...who knows what.
No dramas - so far - but I'm not that far in. To keep this piece of work flat I pinned it to the piece of wood bonded with thick cork, which you can see in the photos.
I do have an identity crisis...are these drain cocks? Never come across cast drain cocks before.
Any help with the ongoing pieces will be much appreciated. Not quite sure where I'm going with this tomorrow, I do have to manufacture some steam pipe covers (and that process is already under way - but I forgot to photograph this). At some point I have to detail the firebox, so I guess that's now on the radar as well.
Stay safe
Mike.
AJC
Western Thunderer
Something like the bearing/spring cover for the pony - Brassmasters, I think, have stopped doing the Finney castings separately, but it's here: GWR castings (MF39).
As it happens, I have one spare which you are welcome to have - drop me a DM with your address and I'll post it to you.
Adam
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Thank you Adam, that's really helpful and much appreciated. PM sent.
Mike
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Things have slowed down a bit due to my ability to catch colds! And also my ability to pass on my cold to Mrs G, who, surprisingly, is not impressed. However, progress has been made. I focused on the wheel splashers - which have to be formed. Besides pick ups, bending metal (other than at 90 degrees) is another pet hate in my kit building life. Thoughts turned to how I could ease this pain...enter stage right the lollipop stick. For some reason in my arsenal of 'things' are some very wide sticks. No idea what I bought them for...
First thing, was to glue two of them together to give roughly the right width for the splasher. Once that was dry I then glued on a 'scarifical lamb', this engine has the riveted type of splasher, the kit also provides splashers for the beaded type.
It was then a case of filling it down to mirror the etch. Didn't take as long as I thought it would and was well worth the effort. So now this can go into the box of jigs - once I find it.
Heat the etch with a fag lighter and then sort of run this over the former and in a minute or so, the shape was there. Started the soldering at one end, matching up the splasher with the opening on the footplate, check that it sat properly and sat squarely then, soldered the other end, whilst burning my fingers and then solder it from the rear which seamed the part in nicely. There was an awful lot of cleaning up and I sometimes wonder what I'm doing wrong. When I look at the wonderful work of Mickoo, there are no solder stains anywhere. How??? As has been said on this site many a time 'every day is a school day'.
My sincere thanks to AJC for sending the bell shaped thingy (also known as the bearing/spring cover for the pony). Tonight's work has seen this and the steps being added to the footplate.
Tomorrow is another visit to Barrow Road, so long as the drugs I'm taking continue their work. The next job is rolling the firebox, boiler and cab roof, hopefully Morgan will remember the rollers to get these done. There was a discussion of being showed how these things work, TBH, I hope he forgets that bit. Taking new things from short term memory to long term memory is proving, how can I put this...trying. Once these parts are done, things should move very quickly - ain't that the kiss of death! I do need a drive train from Mr Gibbon...
And so the model starts to take on an identity, I am pleased with the way this has gone - so far - just goes to prove you can't beat quality.
Stay safe and have a fabulous weekend.
Mike.
First thing, was to glue two of them together to give roughly the right width for the splasher. Once that was dry I then glued on a 'scarifical lamb', this engine has the riveted type of splasher, the kit also provides splashers for the beaded type.
It was then a case of filling it down to mirror the etch. Didn't take as long as I thought it would and was well worth the effort. So now this can go into the box of jigs - once I find it.
Heat the etch with a fag lighter and then sort of run this over the former and in a minute or so, the shape was there. Started the soldering at one end, matching up the splasher with the opening on the footplate, check that it sat properly and sat squarely then, soldered the other end, whilst burning my fingers and then solder it from the rear which seamed the part in nicely. There was an awful lot of cleaning up and I sometimes wonder what I'm doing wrong. When I look at the wonderful work of Mickoo, there are no solder stains anywhere. How??? As has been said on this site many a time 'every day is a school day'.
My sincere thanks to AJC for sending the bell shaped thingy (also known as the bearing/spring cover for the pony). Tonight's work has seen this and the steps being added to the footplate.
Tomorrow is another visit to Barrow Road, so long as the drugs I'm taking continue their work. The next job is rolling the firebox, boiler and cab roof, hopefully Morgan will remember the rollers to get these done. There was a discussion of being showed how these things work, TBH, I hope he forgets that bit. Taking new things from short term memory to long term memory is proving, how can I put this...trying. Once these parts are done, things should move very quickly - ain't that the kiss of death! I do need a drive train from Mr Gibbon...
And so the model starts to take on an identity, I am pleased with the way this has gone - so far - just goes to prove you can't beat quality.
Stay safe and have a fabulous weekend.
Mike.