O Gauge Heljan 33 Improvements and JLTRT MK2s.

[tomstaf]

Hi Guys,

I'm going to open my workbench with a list of tweaks and improvements to one of my 7mm Heljan 33s. The first will end up at 33 051, Shakespeare Cliff modelled circa 1998 after its 1996 BR Blue repaint at Stewarts Lane. I promise the others will be ending up in Dutch!

My list of planned improvements;

1. Remove roof mould lines;
2. Replace roof fan with with correct sized Shawplan Extreme Etchings set;
3. Realign bogie frame suspension springs;
4. Add eyelets to the solebar;
5. Reduce fuel tank width;
6. Replace buffer beam details with JLTRT parts;
7. Add JLTRT high intensity headlights;
8. *Add Shawplan cab door kick plates;
9. *Replace glazing with Shawplan lazerglaze;
10. *Add Shawplan radio rood pod;
11. Add Extreme Etchings nameplates, depot plaques, double arrows and shed plates;
12. Transfers by Precision transfers;
13. Weathering.

*When Brian H produces them.

First off is dealing with nne of the most obvious deficiencies: the prominent mould line along the entire length of roof. I simply removed this in a couple of hours with a file and various grades of wet and dry paper.

I then turned to the fan. It's too wide so the aperture needed reducing. I cut a 100mm length of 1.5mm x 4.8mm evergreen styrene strip. I then curled the strip in to a circle and fixed it with a mini clamp. Immerse it in boiling water for a few minutes and then shower it with cold water. Removing the clamp will leave a slightly kinked circle. So cut off the two kinked ends reducing the strip to the circumference to 86mm. I then had a perfect circle that will pressure fit into the roof aperture. Apply some plastic weld and leave for a day to fully harden. After which I filed to match the roof profile. Shawplan's fan replacement etch has two parts. Whilst they were still attached to the etch I lightly tined both parts. I then placed the inner ring on top of the outer. Applied some flux, heat, and let the capillary action draw the solder around the joint. Obviously the mesh needs rolling to match the roof profile too. I was keen not to loose the finely etched mesh detail under paint I dipped the mesh in Birchwood Casey gunmetal blackening solution. I then glued it all on to the roof.

The bogies have the same problem as the 4mm model: the centre bogie springs are incorrectly inline with the bogie frame rather than being recessed. I scored the centre line on the back of the bogie and then cut the springs off. I then used glued a piece of 5mm x 5mm x 25mm plastic angle on to the back of the frame to provide the new surface to glue the springs to. I strengthened this with a piece of 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 25mm square plastic strip and glued the springs back on and resprayed.

The buffer beam detail is uber crude - to me! So JLTRT to the rescue. Some of the pipe work needs to be made from bits of brass rod. The other pipes are just a direct replacement. Thankfully HJ didn't glue them in, so they pop out easily.

More to follow soon.

Cheers

Tom

PS Sorry for a BR Blue 1st post!

 

[tomstaf]

Next up are improvements for the JLTRT MK2 f coaches. The bits that are missing are;

1. The protective anti-rust strips by the doors;
2. Roe-vac roof vents;
3. Door lock lights;
4. Emergency passenger communication-cord reset keys (red key above door light in picture);
5. Shawplan etched window frames.

I don't like the JLTRT bogies so I am replacing them with EasyBuild's B4s. For my era the friction dampers need replacing with hydraulic ones. I'm going to use plastic rod for this.

I need to take some progress pics of the model but to keep you entertained I've attached the pics of the etched pass-comm rest keys that Martin drew for me.

Cheers

Tom

 

[lancer1027]

Hi Tom.

Interesting work on the 33. Keep posting those progress pics

Rob

 

[28ten]

Im suprised Pugsley didnt draw up some B4 Bogies as well shouldnt be unduly difficult for a man of his talents.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Like the work on the Heljan so far

 

[Pugsley]

Im suprised Pugsley didnt draw up some B4 Bogies as well

I wasn't asked Thanks for the vote of confidence

I like what you've done so far Tom, that new fan grille makes a big difference.

 

[28ten]

I wasn't asked Thanks for the vote of confidence

I like what you've done so far Tom, that new fan grille makes a big difference.

Apart from the MMP BR1 I haven't seen any other top quality bogies for mk1/2 stock, I know how you like a challenge and there are lots of springs in the B4.....

 

[Pugsley]

Never say never, but passenger stock just isn't really my bag. You may see a top quality Y25 bogie at some point though

 

[tomstaf]

Thanks Guys,

More work on the 33 will follow over the next few weeks.

The MK2 will be on the workbench over the weekend so I'll post some progress pics here of the nice new Shawplan window frames, and my progress with those Pass-Comm keys. Annoyingly I've just discovered I can't get hold of 0.5mm plastic half round rod. Unless anyone knows of any sources I'll have to try with 0.8mm and a file instead. Design issue on my part there.

Cheers

Tom

 

[Pennine MC]

I must admit that threads like this about adding/correcting bits on Heljan locos make me wonder about the description of them as "R-T-R"...??

I dunno, it kinda fits into what we were saying the other day - RTR as a basis for selective improvement?

33 looks good Tom, I've always liked the 4mm one despite its much trumpeted shortcomings, I think the windscreens (the 'face' of the loco) are spot on and the big 'un is even better.

 

[Pennine MC]

26 for me matey. But I'd still do the spring mod and take the grommets off the engine room windows

 

[Ressaldar]

Very true. I stand corrected! (and I still want a 31!!)

patience me boy, patience..........all will come to those who wait - quietly - anywhere in the class

cheers

Mike

 

[djparkins]

The bogies have the same problem as the 4mm model: the centre bogie springs are incorrectly inline with the bogie frame rather than being recessed. I scored the centre line on the back of the bogie and then cut the springs off. I then used glued a piece of 5mm x 5mm x 25mm plastic angle on to the back of the frame to provide the new surface to glue the springs to. I strengthened this with a piece of 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 25mm square plastic strip and glued the springs back on and resprayed.

The main problem with the bogie sides though is the brake shoes/linkage - the shoes are far too far forwards and the linkage is moulded solid, taking a line under the axlebox/horn guide rather than linkage rods passing in front of and behind the wheels! This seems to be a problem with all these moulded sideframes.

Instead of perhaps following plastic military kit design parameters and making them in several snap-together parts, they try to mould it all in one piece and this is the result. Military modellers would slaughter Heljan for this sort of thing but railway modellers just seem to have to put up with it!

David Parkins
Modern Motive Power

 

[Pennine MC]

Military modellers would slaughter Heljan for this sort of thing

Well they'd be well placed to wouldnt they, with all those guns and bombs and stuff

 

[28ten]

I was going to comment on the one dimensional bogie sides, but it is one of the problems with a lot of mass produced models. I notice the Bachmann 08 on Steves layout has the same problem.

 

[djparkins]

Well they'd be well placed to wouldnt they, with all those guns and bombs and stuff

You would think so, its true - but in actual fact they do seem to be among the most laid back and easay going of modellers in my experience.

 

[tomstaf]

I must admit that threads like this about adding/correcting bits on Heljan locos make me wonder about the description of them as "R-T-R"...??

I am not going to display my ignorance by asking what a Mk2 Pas-comm Reset key is, never mind where it fits on the model....

(oh b*gg*r)

Hi Jordan,

It's the external passenger-communication cord indicator key. Its connected to the red emergency train stop handles inside the carriages. They were present on most of the MK1 and MK2 coaches in order for the guard to identify from the exterior which coach in the train the cord was activated from. It had to be twisted back to the horizontal position after the brake gear was reset. If you look at the pic of the yellow MK2 I posted earlier, it's the little red strip above the door light and below the rain strip. The picture below is a close-up of one on a MK2 blue/grey FO.

Cheers

Tom

 

[tomstaf]

The main problem with the bogie sides though is the brake shoes/linkage - the shoes are far too far forwards and the linkage is moulded solid, taking a line under the axlebox/horn guide rather than linkage rods passing in front of and behind the wheels! This seems to be a problem with all these moulded sideframes.

Instead of perhaps following plastic military kit design parameters and making them in several snap-together parts, they try to mould it all in one piece and this is the result. Military modellers would slaughter Heljan for this sort of thing but railway modellers just seem to have to put up with it!

David Parkins
Modern Motive Power

Hi David,

I was considering how best to get round this. I'm certainly going to glue a brass rod between the two bogie frames. As for the linkage gear I'm still thinking. Considering the brake shoes are separate parts they are easy enough to move. I think it's probably best to slice/file off the linkage around the axle box and replace with some sort of stainless steel (for strength bearing in mind its slimness) etched part. TBC...

Cheers

Tom

 

[Pennine MC]

You would think so, its true - but in actual fact they do seem to be among the most laid back and easay going of modellers in my experience.

Joking aside David, that's interesting to know.

I was going to comment on the one dimensional bogie sides, but it is one of the problems with a lot of mass produced models. I notice the Bachmann 08 on Steves layout has the same problem.

It's a known criticism of that model Cynric, the tender of the otherwise lovely 3F has the same issue. I suspect some of it may be due to the frames being set further out than strictly accurate, to allow negotiating these 2ft radius curves that us OO types have

 

[28ten]

Joking aside David, that's interesting to know.


It's a known criticism of that model Cynric, the tender of the otherwise lovely 3F has the same issue. I suspect some of it may be due to the frames being set further out than strictly accurate, to allow negotiating these 2ft radius curves that us OO types have

The 7mm Hymek is the same, I cant recall other Heljan models but I suspect it might be a production issue with mould release, I as told that about their MK1's as well....