7mm On Heather's Workbench - small and perfectly formed

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I have to say things are going remarkably well in the paintshop.

*reaches for some wood to touch*

Yesterday's black coats went on as well as can be expected. I ought to invest in some gloss or satin black, because the matt was very, very matt. I was in danger of creating a black hole, because light just seemed to disappear on the surface!

Anyway, this morning the plan was to get some varnish on the black, with particular attention around the bunker in readiness for the decal rivets. All went so well, that I decided it would be worth attempting the green. So, with the heater warming the Advanced Air Drying Facility, an old hairdryer on standby, I mixed up the Precision GWR Loco Green (1928-1945) with the thinners. I went with eight parts thinners to five of paint. It felt slightly safer than a 50/50 I was considering at first. I turned the compressor down to about 10psi, and set to.

Very happy with the results. Thanks to Warren for the idea of painting over the black, which I admit I was a little sceptical about. I am now a convert.

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The cab sides look nice. A couple more coats later, I think.

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The bunker with the varnish coat. This will need some acceleration with the hairdryer before I feel comfortable with handling.

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The front of the loco looks lovely in a slightly shiny black.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Looking very nice Heather. Have you tackled what look like bits of glass fibre brush on the bunker?

Adam
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Looking very nice Heather. Have you tackled what look like bits of glass fibre brush on the bunker?

Yes, they've been dealt with as I work on the rivets. Hopefully, a coat or two of green around the bunker, plus the tank and boiler, later today.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather, that's looking well,
Just to add to previous, you should always use gloss paint. The first coats will look terrible as all imperfections show up, they can then be flattened off with 1500- 2000 wet and dry. Once you are happy with the black coat you can then go on with the livery again in gloss. You will get more imperfections but again they can be flattened then recoated. Numbering and linining will take to the gloss far better. Once done the lot can be matted down with polyurethane gloss varnish with a couple of drops of matting agent.
The trouble with matt paint is that it is very difficult to gloss up with varnish.
Remember all matt/satin paint started life as gloss paint then had a matting agent added, this can be inconsistent as the matting agent can settle at the bottom of a tin as it ages.
It might take a week to get the black perfect if using enamels, but with the hours spent building the loco, this little extra patience and effort will make all the difference.
Hope I don't sound like I am preaching, but your building skills are fantastic, just trying to give a bit advice so that your paint job will match :)
Warren

Ps, I say it to everybody, consider using celly through your airbrush, you will be amazed at the ease and far superior finish:)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Cheers Warren. I do appreciate the advice. I hope to pick your brains at the ALSRM Reading show on a couple of matters.

I've always started from a matt base, but my views are turning as my experience grows. As you say, it can take a while to work up to a proper covering, and in any case the transfers and paint lining goes on better with a gloss surface. If that can be achieved without multiple varnish coats too early in the process, all to the good.

As to the cellulose, I understand the advantages. I have a lot more experience with enamels, despite the potential problems. I have to say, Precision paint with the right thinners has been a real eye opener for me. I worry at sourcing suitable celly paint and thinners, though I am sure that can be overcome.

For now, I'm definitely in the enamel camp, but we shall see how that goes with time.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right, things have almost reached the stage where I should leave well alone for a couple of days.

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The tank/boiler assembly looks okay. Some brushwork will be needed for the nooks and crannies under the smokebox, and quite probably around the front area, too.

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If you look carefully, you can make out the decal rivets. Under close inspection, you can make out the edge of the decal material itself. The size of rivet I chose looked about right - 0.2mm - but they're a little undernourished compared to the etched neighbours. Ho hum. At least I'll know to get a larger diameter next time.

Once the top coats are nice and dry I will do the brush retouching, get colour on the buffer planks, and then a good topcoat of varnish for the transfers. Meanwhile, I guess I should occupy my time with that coach build.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Heather

Yes they are a little under fed but they still look good and from a normal viewing distance are excellent.
I could do with some for my JLTRT diesel kits, the 25 in particular has a row of rivets where the cab joins the body and its almost impossible to get an invisible join between the 2 without rubbing off the cast rivets.


Richard
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Richard, if you plan on getting some, I bought from a supplier called Historex. They import many items and mainly deal with the military modelling side of things. They don't have a shop, but welcome visitors to their place down in Dover. I think I might plan a visit to see what other interesting goodies they might have.

I ordered the sheet on their site store, and it was delivered next day. Just a satisfied customer, as they say.
 

makhis

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather, just a query I thought most panniers had 4 fire iron hooks on the bunker rear and that the top lamp bracket was on the inside face of the bunker. I could well be wrong.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather, just a query I thought most panniers had 4 fire iron hooks on the bunker rear and that the top lamp bracket was on the inside face of the bunker. I could well be wrong.


You are quite correct. Most panniers did have four hooks. For some reason the lot that included 7752 had three. ;)

Here's 7752 in London Transport guise:

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Here she is in earlier days:

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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I'm letting yesterday's paint dry for a day or so before I touch it again, so today I have been adding some finishing touches to the crew and the backhead paintwork.

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I will dry brush a slightly brighter shade on the regulator when the paint is properly dry enough.

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Driver and fireman, front side. The fireman has better definition in the head area. I wonder if it is because the head was a separate part, whereas the driver's head was cast in place, as it were. Anyway, still no joy with names, although Sid Perks popped into my head for the fireman. I was trying to remember where the name came from, then I remembered that I used to listen to The Archers a lot...

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Driver and fireman, rear view. Let's see, how about William Mait for the driver? (Possibly obscure Goon Show reference.)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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A couple of light coats of gloss varnish were applied yesterday, leaving a nice satin sheen. Sadly it also revealed a slightly gritty paint finish, so that's going to be need sorting out. I was keen to see that everything still fitted together properly - plus the opportunity of a quick photo shoot to send to the client - so everything is back on the workbench for tests.

The smokebox paint suffered from rushing to get the masking on. As it's black, I will brush paint later. There's a fair bit I will retouch by brush, mainly the black areas.

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It is suitably dark in the cab. It pays close inspection, though.

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Finally, with the fire irons posed on the bunker. More hickeys in the paint to deal with. Grr.
 
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