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Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Heather Kay, 19 January 2016.
Beautiful work Heather absolutely beautiful
Are you about next week as I'm back in blighty
Yes, we shall be about most of the week. Give us a ring to check before you make the trip.
No piccies, but I’ve just completed the last coach's glazing. I’m letting the glue set, and then I’ll carefully clean each pane of glue splodges and finger prints. I’ll then replace any panes I crack during the cleaning process.
I’ve been wondering how the GWR dealt with the frosted lavatory compartment windows. The LNWR tended to go overboard and acid etch the company crest into the glass. I wonder if Swindon did the same sort of thing. Photos don’t really show this detail, especially since lavs were quite scarce in coaches of the period.
Of course, it’ll be simpler just to make the window plain but obscured.
All glazing cleaned. Amazingly, only two panes were cracked - before I started cleaning - and were replaced.
So, roof painting/weathering, odd paint retouching, clerestory glazing and interiors. Almost there. Not.
Have you frosted the windows in the privvy yet . I so which method did you use ?
I have. It’s very simple.
Plain, common or garden tracing paper held over the glass slip with dabs of PVA. There is a danger that humidity might cause the paper to wrinkle, but as it’s only held by PVA it can be removed fairly easily and replaced with a better solution if the need arises. One thought, which just hit me as this morning's breakfast cuppa finally reaches my brain cell, would be to rub some clear styrene on emery paper and use that behind the glass instead. Or painting sheet material a pale grey and sticking it in.
For the more modern hammered obscured glass, I used bits of those plastic ring binder pockets. It looks very effective.
Thanks for that . I actually done a search on here and also the GOG site , tracing paper was one that came up [actually I think it was yours] duh Paul.
I was actually surprised how few matches came up .
Have you tried the sticky tape that has a frosted finish , just an idea .
Ooh, good one. Filed for future use.
I can see one problem with that method, though. Burnishing the tape down to give a clean finish risks cracking the glass, especially knowing my ham-fistedness.
Yeah , it needs to be done on a flat surface , luckily my worktable has a glass top . Handy for all sorts of things including building kits , the latest I found was scribbling resistor values down with a felt tip pen which can be wiped off with I P A later. Hitting things with a hammer is definitely a non starter .
I think that’s passable as frosted clerestory glazing. I am using some ancient scratched Slater's styrene sheet, trimmed to rough size and rubbed all over the back with some emery paper. Happy with that.
Very nice indeed!
Stunning work just stunning
Quick update of how things sit this evening.
All the buffer heads and couplings still need to be refitted. I installed the vac brake swan-necks, happily so the bodies can still be taken off the chassis if the need arises. All clerestories are glazed, and I suppose next week's job is installing the interiors.
Production line for painting the E6 interior parts. Yesterday, I spent some time fettling the parts I had made some time ago and ensuring I knew exactly where each part was meant to fit. The colours I’ve chosen are notional. Mahogany and teak is just varnished wood, and the other panels seem to have been either painted white or off-white, or perhaps lined with paper then painted. For the guard/luggage compartment, I’ve gone with a light teak finish for walls, with the darker colour for the door interiors.
The other side of the compartment liners will be painted matt black in the hope that any mild misfits will be less obvious to the casual observer.
Beginning to assemble the E6 insides. The false floors are in, and I’ve fitted the guard's compartment walls.
The fit behind the glazing has worked out well. It’s added depth, which was part of the aim. I’m using Copydex to stick the plastic to the metal. I’ve used it on other projects with some success. It has enough "grab" without fear of dissolving anything!
The inevitable happened as I was adjusting a side panel - I cracked a glass pane. At that point, I called a halt to proceedings and decreed it would be sorted out with a clear head and eyes in the morning. So, first job today was to remove the broken bits, tidy up the adhesive, and make a new panel.
Some time later, waiting for the Copydex to grab. Looking good, so once the glue has set, I’ll dig the next coach out and prep the internal bits for it.
With the cricket World Cup over, and a gap until the men's Ashes tournament begins, I’m catching up with a couple of months of In Our Time podcasts. So far we’ve ranged over the Gordon Riots, looked at Ulysses S Grant, had my brain cell melted by some philosophical twaddle about the nature of time, learned about some 17th century scholar and polymath, and followed up with the Inca. Food for the brain cell.
Heather, don't forget the mirror, flanked by pictures or posters on the compartment dividers. I have just been reading this in an old MRJ an article about gilding etched coach kits for Pendon.
The client already has several coaches I’ve built, and we didn’t bother with anything other than floors and seats. He is modelling the late 1880s, and the only correct period image I’ve found that shows a broad gauge compartment interior is in one of the Russell books - a coach split open after an unfortunate accident. The high-back seats are topped with a luggage rack, but no mirrors or pictures. I rather think such affectations only began to appear once the narrow gauge became the norm after 1892.
Sorry, I had forgotten that these coaches are from the standard gauge era, pre 1892.
Not to worry.