One thing I know is a minefield across the scales is screw couplings,
I thought I'd share this protocol as it works for me.
More wagon shenanigans next week I hope...
Here is the Masokits etch - it looks worse than it is to work worth once one is used to it.
You also get some etched hooks and instanters. I prefer to use Exactoscale coupling hooks however.
Here you see the couplings central assembly.
Drill out to holes, if needed, whilst still on the main etch.
The black rod is 0.7mm pencil
lead, you use this to keep the holes aligned once you fold the etch over.
You want a snug fit to keep it all square once its soldered up.
Once you have the soldering done, remove the pencil
lead and take a jewellers broach to the holes - carefully!
Adding the links involves some careful bending up, using 3/64 rod as a former.
It also pays to clean up things with a file atr this point.
The links are attached using 0.65mm craft pins - Mike Clark {Mr Masokits] uses 0.7mm but hey...
The extra 0.05mm will help things to be free but naer to loose and floppy.
Carefully shallow/thin of the head of the pin by the way - it looks better.
This is the tricky bit.
The paper/tape allows one to solder the pin in place, without it gumming up the blasted thing; well that it the theory :lol:
Hark, it looks like a coupling.
Now to clean it up....
Ahem.... NEXT!
The solution is 0.5% - 1.0% Neutracon as mentioned elsewhere by myself.
It cleans up all the flux and gunk, leaving a very nice clean piece of work.
Attaching the coupling to the coupling hook will mean the jewellers broaches come out again.
Care here as you want to fit the coupling in and then close enough metal behind it to hold it in place - don't make the hole too big!
The plates on the stem of the coupling hook are Ambis etches by the way.
The finished articles in place.
Some use araldite but I use Rocket Max super-glue.
The plastic gets "keyed" using Ambroid Pro Weld before hand by the way which seems to help.
I hope this all makes sense and any questions? Ask away.
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