7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)

[Ian@StEnochs]

Chris,

I too am a fan of big nasty files! Much better to get serious with a 10” basta??d cut than pussy about with tidily needle files.

Ian.

 

[Pencarrow]

Inside edges being thinned down.

 

[Heather Kay]

How we suffer for our art.

 

[oldravendale]

As a definitely non scenic modeller I'm totally blown away by this. This has been an amazing thread all through but it's now getting well beyond a simple "Like".

Brian

 

[Pencarrow]

The roofs on this building are quite wonky as illustrated by the straight edge below.



Whilst being a pain in the #### applying small separate ridge tiles, it does mean that they naturally follow the flow of the roofline.

 

[Phil O]

Chris,

That looks great! Nearly time to get the brushes out and finish painting.

 

[Pencarrow]

Chris,

That looks great! Nearly time to get the brushes out and finish painting.

Cheers Phil,

Still a surprising amount left to do. There's the two openings in the left wing to fill. A mixture of windows, louvres and boarding up, depending upon which look I go for:





Then I'm going to revisit the corrugated iron on the central section. It's a bit too neat and perfect (it's where I started 5 years ago) and later photos show I need to add an angled section over the sleepered-up door below.





And then there's the bit I've been putting off addressing for years, and probably something I'm going to need the help of WTers with. The multi-pane window in the central section. I suspect that this will need to be custom etched. I can't think of another way round doing it. Needs to be a bit more battered than the early photo though!





After that it will be finishing off the hanging slates under the roofline and guttering and downpipes.

 

[Pencarrow]

As a definitely non scenic modeller I'm totally blown away by this. This has been an amazing thread all through but it's now getting well beyond a simple "Like".

Brian

Thanks Brian, much appreciated. It's probably the same feeling I get when watching the loco build threads you, Mick, Stef etc have. The best thing about buildings though is that they don't have to run - no motion, motors, pick-ups, compensation.

 

[Pencarrow]

Could you put the file down the tube to chamfer the inner edges, in same way as the original section?
They seem to sit too high as is, and would look much better a bit lower.

Here are some hog back ridges (and my boots) - some are much less than 90 degrees:
View attachment 126763

And here are some Staffordshire clay hog backs:
View attachment 126764

Thanks for those photos. Quite a range of curves and angles in the hog back tiles. On a walk around the village yesterday I noted that similar hog back tiles were anything from 120deg to 180deg.

There's one photo which captures the end of the central ridge clearer than others. On that the ridge looks quite bulbous. I have however reduced the height of my ridge tiles.

 

[Steph Dale]

Chris,

You can do that window relatively simply. If you cover thin (0.010" - 0.020") glazing material with masking tape, you can easily mark out the window.

Use a fresh scalpel to cut out the glazing bars from the tape and remove them. You can then splodge (technical term) paint of your chosen colour over the window. When you remove the remaining tape you'll have a multi-pane window with nice crisp fine glazing bars.

A nice side effect is that the scoring and handling will flex the glazing material and you'll get a nice faceted appearance.

Cunning trick - you may be able to mount two blades side by side in a handle, which makes cutting out consistent and quick.

I'll see if I can dig out the building I made that has windows done in this way and post a photo or two, if it's of interest?

Steph

 

[simond]

Cheers Phil,

Still a surprising amount left to do. There's the two openings in the left wing to fill. A mixture of windows, louvres and boarding up, depending upon which look I go for:

View attachment 126799

View attachment 126801

Then I'm going to revisit the corrugated iron on the central section. It's a bit too neat and perfect (it's where I started 5 years ago) and later photos show I need to add an angled section over the sleepered-up door below.

View attachment 126803

View attachment 126802

And then there's the bit I've been putting off addressing for years, and probably something I'm going to need the help of WTers with. The multi-pane window in the central section. I suspect that this will need to be custom etched. I can't think of another way round doing it. Needs to be a bit more battered than the early photo though!

View attachment 126804

View attachment 126805

After that it will be finishing off the hanging slates under the roofline and guttering and downpipes.

Chris

your “difficult” window. I’m not sure it would be easier etched. You could certainly get the fineness of the frame but how to attach the glass?

if you send me the sizes, I’ll have a go at lasering it directly into acrylic. Maybe a card overlay for the frame. Be cheaper than an etch anyway!

Or maybe Phil or Giles would laser in Trotec ?

atb
Simon

 

[Pencarrow]

Chris,

You can do that window relatively simply. If you cover thin (0.010" - 0.020") glazing material with masking tape, you can easily mark out the window.

Use a fresh scalpel to cut out the glazing bars from the tape and remove them. You can then splodge (technical term) paint of your chosen colour over the window. When you remove the remaining tape you'll have a multi-pane window with nice crisp fine glazing bars.

A nice side effect is that the scoring and handling will flex the glazing material and you'll get a nice faceted appearance.

Cunning trick - you may be able to mount two blades side by side in a handle, which makes cutting out consistent and quick.

I'll see if I can dig out the building I made that has windows done in this way and post a photo or two, if it's of interest?

Steph

I was just pondering a similar approach Steph, but using a Tamya cutter to make a groove in the glazing and drop in some fine microstrip to give a bit of relief. I'm guessing that the metal frames are about an inch wide.

I would be interested to see the results you have got though.

 

[oldravendale]

As the longer serving members of this forum will know Mrs D has built dolls houses. One way of creating the lattice effect on windows is to use a scrawker to draw the lines on a plastic or acrylic sheet and then fill the lines with paint by painting the whole window pane and immediately wiping it off so that the paint gets trapped in the grooves.

'ears one wot she dun earlier.....



Brian

 

[Pencarrow]

Chris

your “difficult” window. I’m not sure it would be easier etched. You could certainly get the fineness of the frame but how to attach the glass?

if you send me the sizes, I’ll have a go at lasering it directly into acrylic. Maybe a card overlay for the frame. Be cheaper than an etch anyway!

Or maybe Phil or Giles would laser in Trotec ?

atb
Simon

That's an interesting idea Simon. I think key to getting the end result to look right is getting accurate and consistent spacing of the window bars. Lasering grooves in the acrylic would definitely achieve that. How thick is the acrylic you use?

I don't know much about Trotec, is it much like the Rowmark that York Model Making use? I have previously used their products in 4mm for wooden window frames but their minimum bar width and the material thickness would be too much for this project.

Keep the ideas coming folks.

 

[Pencarrow]

As the longer serving members of this forum will know Mrs D has built dolls houses. One way of creating the lattice effect on windows is to use a scrawker to draw the lines on a plastic or acrylic sheet and then fill the lines with paint by painting the whole window pane and immediately wiping it off so that the paint gets trapped in the grooves.

'ears one wot she dun earlier.....

View attachment 126810

Brian

Looks effective Brian.

 

[Steph Dale]

Chris,

Here's the promised photo. The splodging technique referred to earlier builds up the glazing bars to stop the flat/ uniform appearance. Unfortunately the light down here is very flat today and I can't show the faceting of the glass panels, which is a shame.

This example is HO, and many times real size on my screen, so you can see it gives a very neat solution. The model is in styrene - like you I had to scribe and cut all the panels myself.



You'll see that the outer frame is built up to thickness with strip and a lamination of styrene; you'd be able to do the same with your window.

Steph

 

[Pencarrow]

Bit of a play with plastic strip...





Glazing will be of course be dirty.

 

[Pencarrow]

Perhaps a bit too domestic. Might have another go at something more rustic...

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

From the photos it appears each opening light have six rather than four panes.

 

[GrahameH]

Perhaps a bit too domestic. Might have another go at something more rustic...

I would agree, maybe do a few drawn examples and place them into the opening ?