Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Could pre-coat with PVA and let it dry?
More testing needed.

Now I do know that PVA does peel off plasticard unless you really abuse the surface first. I have used the stone DAS clay and I normally put a few blobs of superglue under the clay first.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Mmm, not sure about that, I guess the polyfilla and PVA are both water soluble, but once the PVA has set…?
 
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Obblygobbly

Western Thunderer
Not sure what the correct term is but some 'PVA' glue does stick to plastic. 2mm Scale Association sells Easitrac Glue, which is very effective. There must be equivalents elsewhere. Alternative suggestions include gluing tissue paper to the plasticard or maybe even soften the surface of the plasticard with something like Liquid Poly and gently indenting it with something slightly rough. Even fingerprints might do the trick ;)
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Not sure what the correct term is but some 'PVA' glue does stick to plastic. 2mm Scale Association sells Easitrac Glue, which is very effective. There must be equivalents elsewhere. Alternative suggestions include gluing tissue paper to the plasticard or maybe even soften the surface of the plasticard with something like Liquid Poly and gently indenting it with something slightly rough. Even fingerprints might do the trick ;)

Ah yes, gluey fingerprints, those I can do.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Tissue paper and liquid styrene cement would work and may well provide the render texture you're after without resorting to fillers for the final finish.

An alternative is to look at artists watercolour or cartridge paper/card which come in various textures and finishes. Such as the ones used for laser cut slates.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Tissue paper and liquid styrene cement would work and may well provide the render texture you're after without resorting to fillers for the final finish.

An alternative is to look at artists watercolour or cartridge paper/card which come in various textures and finishes. Such as the ones used for laser cut slates.

I was thinking of an artist's paper of some sort.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
A local art shop has “Payperbox” card and paper available. I bought the card for my slate roofs from them, and a just-off-white card for my laser printed Mica van bodies. They do a wide range of card one of which might serve.

That said, I suspect I’d probably try a paint approach.
 

Oban27

Active Member
Now then boys and girls. Render.

There, I've said it. Render.

And again.

I'm trying to decide if talc on wet paint will be sufficient in 7mm or should I be contemplating something like fine grade wet and dry.

Thoughts on a postcard please.

View attachment 182428

View attachment 182429
Hi,

if you decide to go down the paint and talc route may I suggest you apply the talk with a fine, small sieve as used by bakers to coat cakes with a fine layer of icing sugar. It's easy to ensure an even coat and any excess can be easily removed for reuse.

Roja
 

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Hi Chris I am finally feeling good enough to make a rational comment after a long week of absolute exhaustion due to getting Covid last Tuesday. The use of art paper or card cover stock glued to the styrene would probably be a good candidate for the rendering. Perhaps use some gesso as an undercoat.
Michael
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Hi Chris I am finally feeling good enough to make a rational comment after a long week of absolute exhaustion due to getting Covid last Tuesday. The use of art paper or card cover stock glued to the styrene would probably be a good candidate for the rendering. Perhaps use some gesso as an undercoat.
Michael

I'm in Birmingham today so will be having a look in the art shop to see what's available.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Sounds like my wife when we’re going away. “Money, tickets, passport?”

(the refrain of the habituated business traveller…)
 

JasonBz

Western Thunderer
Render...
This does work for smaller scale "tarmac" or asphalt type surfaces, at least in small areas.

Wet and Dry type paper, but sanded down with the same thing.
It removes the uniformity and some of the textural highpoints; but not to the same degree as using used paper would do.....
 

simond

Western Thunderer
the trouble with sheet materials is that you have to cut them to suit the all the brick surrounds around the door ( and windows ).
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
the trouble with sheet materials is that you have to cut them to suit the all the brick surrounds around the door ( and windows ).

Thankfully in this case, the end wall has no brick surrounds to the windows. It does have some external raised casing... Easier to hide paper ends.

rps20230226_082220.jpg

I'm not replicating the fancy double doorway as my end gable doesn't abut a busy shopping street.
 

Mark F

Western Thunderer
For your render, here's another possible option.
IMG20230316105009.jpg
I've used it as ground cover in a yard (in 4mm), but it could work as 7mm scale render. There is a finer version too. Hard to get a sense of the texture in photos.
IMG20230316105023.jpg

Spreads on in much the same way that you apply a full size render finish. Seems to adhere very well to card and plastic, remains reasonably flexible when dry (which takes a couple of hours). Downside: not cheap, this 237ml pot was £15, but would cover a lot.
 
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