7mm Pete’s GWR workbench. Dean's goods. RR R1 class 0-6-2T

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Peter Cross, 27 October 2019.

  1. LaScala

    LaScala Member

    The round top boilered predecessor from the newer 88D kit. Does not have reverser and cannot find any guidance from old pics

    Attached Files:

  2. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I think this has a screw reverser, it's what I am fitting. I don't remember how I came to this conclusion, it may have been the best from what I could see in photos. Possibly even copying another RR class of the same type.
  3. LaScala

    LaScala Member

    Thanks Peter, makes sense for a passenger engine.
  4. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Time for some updates to where we are.
    Let's start with the Dean goods, I've had planned for it to be early BR. But no transfers, so after some research I found number 2538 was painted black in 1944, I presume it was not repainted at its intermediate service, and was painted again in 1952 by BR. So here's my impression of it in the post war early BR livery.
    It's now ready for a coat of varnish. Then it's down to fitting out the cab etc.
    IMG_20210212_223602768_resize_62.jpg IMG_20210212_223548056_resize_84.jpg IMG_20210212_223547787_resize_9.jpg

    Some more work in progress shortly.
  5. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Here's another project started. My mojo has been missing of late, and I thought something different from locos might reignite it.
    This GWR K3 passenger brake van, was acquired from that we'll known auction site 2 or 3 years ago.


    Along with some new scroll pins etc for the rather basic bogies.


    It was assembled using blobs of solder, reinforced with epoxy resin glue, and where these failed liberal amounts of super glue. One end was also used screws and nuts, as well as the above.


    Once all gleaned up, and in kit form almost as Metalmodels had ment it to be, rebuilding could start. I've started with the body, where I normally start with the bogies, but these require some serious rebuilding, and some thought, so I did not want to put myself off before we started...

    The basic box is now rebuilt. IMG_20210211_210750312_resize_21.jpg

    Drop lights next, some how I managed to lose one. Made a replacement by soldering one to a spare piece of etch. Two were placed slightly open. There are two half etched slots for the ducket glazing. But I want to fit this after painting. So these were made into slots.


    Door hinges next. I made these from L shapes folded from a strip of brass. The top 2 were soldered in first, then used to hold the straight edge for scribing the door bottoms.


    Finally the bottom ones were added, then all tree were filed to be parallel to the top half of the body.


    Next the panelled ends will be fitted and detailed. While I try and find out if there were door buffers.
    Rn@B., Podartist79, Phil O and 11 others like this.
  6. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    Looks like a proper job, that, Pete

    late 20’s livery???

    Peter Cross likes this.
  7. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    A very nice restoration. Well done for seeing the quality of the kit underneath that original effort. It's cleaned up beautifully.
    Peter Cross likes this.
  8. daifly

    daifly Western Thunderer

    This will be very useful. I have a mint, unbuilt one of these in the stash.
    Peter Cross likes this.
  9. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks Simon.
    Yes it will be late 20's livery. But as they were scrapped in 30/31 did they get the brown and cream, or did they stay brown or lake? Photos are hard to find on the net. I think they would look nice in the brown and cream lined.
  10. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Yes it did, but did show up the damage done to the bogies. I need to make up new ones and use the cast sides as overlays, there is no strength left in them.
  11. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    It fits together very nicely for an old kit. There's room to improve it too.
    daifly likes this.
  12. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Blimey. I'm a bit behind here. Must keep up in future.

    The K3 is now primed. So let's do a little catch up.

    The bogies were made out of plasticard, with a brass plate on and the cast sides cleaned up and stuck to the sides. Fitted with what I do believe are Slater's scroll irons, these are cut just below the step board so hopefully it won't show.


    Here's an overview before painting.


    Now the primed K3. It came out better than I thought.



    The bogies and the vacuum cylinder assembly, have both been painted black.


    I will do what interior there is out of plasticard later.

    I've been struggling to find out what livery they had in the last ten years of their life, I have decide to go for the 1924 lined livery, whether they ever got this is a debatable question, as they were scrapped in about 1932. So we're very unlikely to of got the plainer 27 chocolate and cream. But could of easily been in all over chocolate, or crimson lake.
    LaScala, chrisb, john lewsey and 8 others like this.
  13. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I've been playing with my Dean's goods. It just needed pickups and final assembly. Well, pickups were duly fitted, then modified as I had a dead short on body.
    I then connected the motor and it was very juddery, eventually I found a dead short on the centre drivers. The araldite had not insulated the large brass counter weights over the insulation gaps in the spokes. Off they came, and new plasticard ones went on.

    Great, test on the track. Nope, juddery still, better backwards than forward. So out with the rolling road, take the wheels off, clean everything and reassemble, taking care everything was right before moving on. Put it on the rolling road, using wander leads, still the same, whilst head scratching, in one jerky movement the frames moved forward off the rollers, away went the wheels running smoothly. Well, me thinks let's try a new motor, the one I'm using is an 1833 Mashima, the 5th one in recent times that I've binned for lacking any get up go.
    I put in a slightly smaller cheapie from Fleabay, it not only runs smoothly, it can run with the body on and move more than itself.
    I used to have a supply of cannon motors which I can't replace since I moved abroad. Much better than the Mashima equivalent.
    Deano747 likes this.