7mm Pete’s GWR workbench. Dean's goods. RR R1 class 0-6-2T

LaScala

Member

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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
The round top boilered predecessor from the newer 88D kit. Does not have reverser and cannot find any guidance from old pics


I think this has a screw reverser, it's what I am fitting. I don't remember how I came to this conclusion, it may have been the best from what I could see in photos. Possibly even copying another RR class of the same type.
 

LaScala

Member
I think this has a screw reverser, it's what I am fitting. I don't remember how I came to this conclusion, it may have been the best from what I could see in photos. Possibly even copying another RR class of the same type.
Thanks Peter, makes sense for a passenger engine.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Time for some updates to where we are.
Let's start with the Dean goods, I've had planned for it to be early BR. But no transfers, so after some research I found number 2538 was painted black in 1944, I presume it was not repainted at its intermediate service, and was painted again in 1952 by BR. So here's my impression of it in the post war early BR livery.
It's now ready for a coat of varnish. Then it's down to fitting out the cab etc.
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Some more work in progress shortly.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Here's another project started. My mojo has been missing of late, and I thought something different from locos might reignite it.
This GWR K3 passenger brake van, was acquired from that we'll known auction site 2 or 3 years ago.

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Along with some new scroll pins etc for the rather basic bogies.

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It was assembled using blobs of solder, reinforced with epoxy resin glue, and where these failed liberal amounts of super glue. One end was also used screws and nuts, as well as the above.

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Once all gleaned up, and in kit form almost as Metalmodels had ment it to be, rebuilding could start. I've started with the body, where I normally start with the bogies, but these require some serious rebuilding, and some thought, so I did not want to put myself off before we started...

The basic box is now rebuilt.IMG_20210211_210750312_resize_21.jpg

Drop lights next, some how I managed to lose one. Made a replacement by soldering one to a spare piece of etch. Two were placed slightly open. There are two half etched slots for the ducket glazing. But I want to fit this after painting. So these were made into slots.

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Door hinges next. I made these from L shapes folded from a strip of brass. The top 2 were soldered in first, then used to hold the straight edge for scribing the door bottoms.

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Finally the bottom ones were added, then all tree were filed to be parallel to the top half of the body.

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Next the panelled ends will be fitted and detailed. While I try and find out if there were door buffers.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Looks like a proper job, that, Pete

late 20’s livery???

cheers
Simon

Thanks Simon.
Yes it will be late 20's livery. But as they were scrapped in 30/31 did they get the brown and cream, or did they stay brown or lake? Photos are hard to find on the net. I think they would look nice in the brown and cream lined.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
A very nice restoration. Well done for seeing the quality of the kit underneath that original effort. It's cleaned up beautifully.
Yes it did, but did show up the damage done to the bogies. I need to make up new ones and use the cast sides as overlays, there is no strength left in them.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Blimey. I'm a bit behind here. Must keep up in future.

The K3 is now primed. So let's do a little catch up.

The bogies were made out of plasticard, with a brass plate on and the cast sides cleaned up and stuck to the sides. Fitted with what I do believe are Slater's scroll irons, these are cut just below the step board so hopefully it won't show.

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Here's an overview before painting.

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Now the primed K3. It came out better than I thought.


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The bogies and the vacuum cylinder assembly, have both been painted black.

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I will do what interior there is out of plasticard later.

I've been struggling to find out what livery they had in the last ten years of their life, I have decide to go for the 1924 lined livery, whether they ever got this is a debatable question, as they were scrapped in about 1932. So we're very unlikely to of got the plainer 27 chocolate and cream. But could of easily been in all over chocolate, or crimson lake.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I've been playing with my Dean's goods. It just needed pickups and final assembly. Well, pickups were duly fitted, then modified as I had a dead short on body.
I then connected the motor and it was very juddery, eventually I found a dead short on the centre drivers. The araldite had not insulated the large brass counter weights over the insulation gaps in the spokes. Off they came, and new plasticard ones went on.

Great, test on the track. Nope, juddery still, better backwards than forward. So out with the rolling road, take the wheels off, clean everything and reassemble, taking care everything was right before moving on. Put it on the rolling road, using wander leads, still the same, whilst head scratching, in one jerky movement the frames moved forward off the rollers, away went the wheels running smoothly. Well, me thinks let's try a new motor, the one I'm using is an 1833 Mashima, the 5th one in recent times that I've binned for lacking any get up go.
I put in a slightly smaller cheapie from Fleabay, it not only runs smoothly, it can run with the body on and move more than itself.
I used to have a supply of cannon motors which I can't replace since I moved abroad. Much better than the Mashima equivalent.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I can't believe I got the RR R1 running a year ago. But, only just finished it. Shows how little I've done in the past year. Hopefully that will all change now.
Here are a couple of short videos, taken on the long since scrapped test track.





 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I've had the Dean goods out again, to see if it was actually running when I put it away six months ago. The answer is yes it was, the wiring was a bit untidy and not soldered to the motor, I just need to get the direction right before soldering. I also used red heat shrink on the pickups as they were over the top of red frames. Now that was a mistake, and now need some Matt black attention.
I managed to power a metre of my layout, to check the running. I don't think it's too bad for first go, plus the I wouldn't trust the temporary track wiring as it was all just pushed onto the rails.
Sorry about the poor lighting, it was about 10 at night when filmed.








Hopefully will get this wrapped up in the next few days, which will just leave the LMS 2P and the GWR PBV , to get finished for when we come to the UK in June.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I managed to do a little painting today. I've given the roof of the K3 a coat of white inside and out.

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I have also given the body, or the top half a coat of cream. Not sure how others do it but I thought doing the cream first the brown will cover better than the other way around.

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Does any one know what the interior colour would be? I was thinking of using white.


I bought a coffee stirrer the other day to try in paint pots, I had to make the end a little smaller. It does work well, but the lightest pressure stops it. Which is handy in a full 14ml tin. But it's great in the 50ml tins. I'm sure with practice it will be most efficient.

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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Information from the Didcot C&W crew... sides and ends are a salmon pink shade, interior partitions/doors are light / dark pine scumble. Any woodwook for tables/desks/racks as interior partitions.
One would imagine that the salmon pink has as much debate as the salmon pink the LSWR used on the outside of their coaches.

Thank you the information is gratefully received. Least I know now what sort of direction I'm now heading.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
If you can, there is an internet image of the GWS K14 interior showing the pink walls/ends.

I have spoken to both Pete Speller and Mick Howse about the colour and the consensus is that the chosen shade matches paint layers found during restoration.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
I managed to do a little painting today. I've given the roof of the K3 a coat of white inside and out.

View attachment 158377

I have also given the body, or the top half a coat of cream. Not sure how others do it but I thought doing the cream first the brown will cover better than the other way around.

View attachment 158375View attachment 158376

Does any one know what the interior colour would be? I was thinking of using white.


I bought a coffee stirrer the other day to try in paint pots, I had to make the end a little smaller. It does work well, but the lightest pressure stops it. Which is handy in a full 14ml tin. But it's great in the 50ml tins. I'm sure with practice it will be most efficient.

View attachment 158378
Hi Pete , i purloined one of these after my wife got it as a freeby from one of those shopping magazine's. I find its easier to mix the goop at the bottom of the tin/ jar first then use the electric stirrer to finish off otherwise it just stalls .
Ref the brown paint over the cream , i think you may find the cream actually covers easier but let us know . I model LNWR and after reading Larry G on this site decided when spraying some coaches to spray the plum first then the spilt milk ( white ) second . It covered the plum easily whereas the plum needed quite a few passes over the grey primer to get a a decent coverage .
 
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