Peteb's Finney 7 drummond M7

PeteB

Active Member
Hi Paul
The holes are already pre drilled into the foot plate and also in the door way trim. I think it's the photo, but I do take your point. Funny enough, it's what I'm working on now, so when the handrails are fitted I'll post a pic. I have checked and everything looks ok.

Pete
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Pete , I agree , looks fine . I think it was the way the trim was just hanging there that just looked wrong . Did you use entomologist pins for the handrails ? A very nice build.
Cheers Paul
 

PeteB

Active Member
Thank you Paul for your kind words. No I didn't use entomologist pins, I used brass rod. However I did use sewing pins for my Terrier hand rails because of the pin tops. My first o gauge model, an Ace product kit.
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I'm getting close to painting so I thought I'd better put it all together to make sure everything fits. There are a few things that need adjustment, but all in all, went together quite well.
After stripping it back down, I shall go over the whole model with a magnifying glass looking for them dam imperfections.
Nice sunny day so I took some pics outside.
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Next pics should be in primer. I used Halfords spray grey primer on my Terrier, seamed to work ok, but this time I'm going to use Etch Primer two pack.

Just a couple of things I need a bit of help on.
1 I need to know what this sight feed lubricator/ condensing coil does, and where the pipes go and was it fitted as std?
2 That lever in the cab on the inside on the RHS box, what does it do and where does it pivot?
3 The small gauge to the right of the other two above the boiler back. Where does the pipe go?
4 Are the two gauges for the push-pull correct to go on the RHS cab side, as in the pic from Steph on page one?

Other than the above, I think that's it.

Pete
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Pete,
There will be a steam supply pipe connecting either the steam manifold or one of the other live steam pipes in the cab to the coil mounted in the corner of the roof. The condensed steam is fed down to the top of the lubricator body. From the bottom of the body is the condensate drain, via a valve, which would be lead down below the foot plate to discharge onto the ground. From the rear (front of loco) of the lubricator is the emulsified oil feed to the valve chest/cylinder block. All look to be very small bore stuff - perhaps 3/8" copper? Unfortunately, the photos don't show all the pipe routing, so a bit of artistic license might be required.
Not much help I'm afraid and I don't know the answers to your other questions.
 

PeteB

Active Member
Thank you so much Dave for your info, at least now I have some idea as to where some of the piping goes. The rest, as you say, artistic license will be used.
I was hoping for some answers on the other three questions, if not definitive, then pointers will do. I guess these old girls are taking their secrets to the scrap yards in the sky.

Pete
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Quote : Next pics should be in primer. I used Halfords spray grey primer on my Terrier, seamed to work ok, but this time I'm going to use Etch Primer two pack.

Halfords Acid 8 etch grey primer is simpler and does the job well. Perversely, so long as it is applied in a moderately cool place, the longer it remains wet and the more it etches into the surface. Cellulose can be sprayed on top of it within half an hour. Just a suggestion.
 

PeteB

Active Member
Hi all
I do hope you are all staying safe.
I have been trying to finish this stream for some time and this is the first chance I've had. The last 6 months have been a nightmare, after loosing my uncle to covid in Dec then having my pride and joy smash up just after Christmas, then sorting out my uncle's affairs and applying for Probate (like so many others) so sad.

My little M7 is, at last, finished.

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I had a massive paint fail, no idea as to what happened, but the top coat didn't stick to the primer. I had to strip all the paint off and some damage was done in the process. I had to walk away from her, which gave me the chance to finish a few other projects.

So back in primer, and this time I used Halfords etch which has always been my choice primer. I have no idea if the two pack was the cause of the paint failure, but I wasn't going to give it a second go!!!! Cab painted.DSC_1472.JPG DSC_1473.JPG IMG_20191018_132740.jpgThen into paint
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I'm afraid the photo doesn't do it justice
 

PeteB

Active Member
Blimey, don't know what happened, one minute I was posting the last pic then POW . Glad I didn't lose anything.

I'm going to leave it here for now. Fixing of the transfers next.
 

PeteB

Active Member
The Transfers.
WHAT a headache !!!!
I got the transfers from Fox and they came on two sheets. The first with the grey lining, the second with the colour. I needed to see how they came off and applied, so I tried one (of which I didn't need) and as I lifted it it turned into an earthworm!!!!
Thought I'd start with the bunker, as this was the smallest. I cut the transfer into two to make it easier to handle, it took ages with tooth pick and brush pulling and pushing, a little slid here, then there.IMG_20191210_143017.jpg

As you can see, not good, went on with tank, even worse!!!!
So I went onto the web for some ideas. Saw a piece from Fox using tracing paper, laying the outer face down onto the paper then wetting the rear and lifting off, then applying onto the model and lifting off the tracing paper. So I bought a pad and tried it, and yes it didn't work. So I phoned Fox and had a chat. They said that they had had very little success with the tracing paper method and couldn't give me any new ideas on how to proceed, except by trail and error. So I ordered a new set, with a bit more thought needed.
So this is what I came up with. I photocopied the sheet, then cut around the inside of the line.IMG_20200123_145417.jpg

On a clean piece of glass I lightly stuck some wide masking tape, then laid and stuck the stencil on top.IMG_20200123_151142.jpg With a scalpel and straight edge cut around the stencil.
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mark up the positionIMG_20200123_155010.jpg

The masking tape is just think enough to give an edge for the transfer to butt up to. I also cut the transfer, into 4. Two ends with a bit top and bottom, and two lengths. I used as little water as possible, so's not to lift the masking tape.IMG_20200123_163122.jpg
Now that's better.IMG_20200129_142820.jpg
I just couldn't find away to do the colour, so this is as good as I could do. Having said that, with a bit of paint and a thin brush, the whole thing can be tidied up. See image above and below Larry G. The paint looks ok in this photo.
Cab gauges next.
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
Pete, when I applied the Fox transfers on my GWR 4133, I cut them into smaller pieces. The bunker lining below is made of at least 5 or 6 smaller pieces. I have aligned them free hand. However, I found it complicated to soak the transfer to the point where the whole length slid freely. Hot water did help a lot to have the transfers soaked quickly (30 seconds) and evenly over the whole length.

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Michael
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Hello Pete, not as complex as I had straight raised panelling on my Met Bo-Bo however I used Fox single yellow lining decals.

For the flats parts of the body sides I laid the decal on the of the loco and soaked it with Microset. Once able to slide I pulled the backing sheet away with the decal left on the body then straightened where necessary.
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PeteB

Active Member
Thanks guys.
Excellent work on all three. So many techniques, ideas.
Warren, I do use gloss paint when transfers are required then maybe a satin varnish (as in this case) to seal everything in place, then a dust over with a mixture of Brown and Metalcote Gunmetal (Humbrol 27004) See Geoff Haynes excellent book "painting and lining model locomotives and coaches" A good book for the beginner and the more seasoned modeler. Did you use just grey and red when linning or is there white also? You do seem to have a steady hand.
Yes Michael, on reflection, I should have tried smaller portions with the colour transfers. Hayho!
Best way to go, Dave, when you have straight lines. I made my own on waterslide paper when linning my Duchess of Sunderland.
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I had a lot of thought on how I was going to do the cab gauges, namely the gauge face. All the faces I could find didn't do it for me, dull or pixelated.DSC_1157.JPG
The ones to the left looks as though they where once fitted to a mini cooper s!!!!
So, I purchased the gauges from Laurie and gave them a polish. Now I did have a couple of goes before I was happy

I sprayed a little Halfords etch primmer into a container, then applied to the face and allowed to dry.
The originals would have been white enameled, so with a tooth pick, I dropped a little Humbrol No 22 white into the gauge.
Now this will take at least 3 days to dry but will still be soft.
I made some tools out of BBQ skewers and one sided razor blades.IMG_20200403_141602.jpg

Using Humbrol black No 85 On the blade, very gently apply to the white paint, just braking the surface. The longer of the three I used for the arm.IMG_20200401_141905.jpg IMG_20200403_141451.jpg

I kept them covered for a week then applied canopy glue for the glass effect.
I decided to use a single double gauge for the pull-push. Two gauges looked somewhat cramped, and as there is only one man in the whole world who can dispute this (Brian) and as there are no pics to prove otherwise, I might get away with it!!!!
A bit of pipe work in the cab.IMG_20201110_171300.jpg


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The little bump you see is a magnet to hold the roof on.IMG_20210417_161559.jpg
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The regulator and the linkage all moveIMG_20210417_161834.jpg
The water on the floor was a little Gorilla epoxy just spread sparingly. The doors also open and close.IMG_20210417_162204.jpg
A bit of dirtying
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I think it works ok. I'm happy.

All the finished pics to follow.
 

PeteB

Active Member
Brian, Thank you for your very kind words.
Two gauges for the push-pull just didn't look right, I'm so glad it passed the Brian test. lol
Thank you for all the likes too.

On all the pics (past and present) I have, shows
a lagged steam pipe running the length of the right hand footplate and is held in place by brackets.
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as you can see from the prototype. I asked a member of staff to take the pics. Health and safety, quiet right too.

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I used a length of 1.2mm brass rod, bent into shape. I then sleeved it with heat shrink and applied some heat. After it cooled, I simply squished it together then pulled it back. Well happy.

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Again from all the pics, the oil box supplied is incorrect for 30053, so I scratched one together.

Ok, so this is the end my friends,(in the words of the Doors) all finished. I have thoroughly enjoyed putting this Finney 7 kit together (excepted the painting cu) and I hope I've done it justice. Me, I'm over the moon with the way it's turned out. Might have to buy another Finney 7 kit!!!!

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Thanks for watching
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Pete, yes the cream is there, here’s a close up of the lining (not an M7:eek:) but you get the idea.
Funny you mentioned Geoff’s book, I was originally approached to write it but just didn’t have the time, too many loco paint commissions and all that:)

Anyway your M7 looks excellent, I’m actually on with another one at the moment
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