7mm Peter's workshop. LNER V3 CLASS

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Genghis

Western Thunderer
Yes the DJH V1 came from the Piercy range. I built the B1: there were certain parts provided in the kit that weren't needed (and a couple that I couldn't figure out what they were) and asking DJH it became clear that they had made some modifications to the original. No idea what was done though. I suspect that it is possible that they have done the same to the V1.
 
Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
AJC said:
Hmm, wasn't the V1 that DJH markets now actually originated by Piercy Models? They are certainly listed separately on the DJH website and they certainly look to be of a higher standard than Model Loco's UK output. I've only ever seen one of their B1s close too (Bob Alderman built it) and this looked very much better than anything I've seen from DJH in 4mm and in much of their 7mm range.

The 4mm S15 is a bit of a disaster area, as Peter suggests, their U/N/U1/N1 is also 'interesting' - a friend is reconstructing bits from one into a rebuilt River - and there are certainly quite major dimensional problems with other examples in the 4mm range (which even Tony Wright, the great proselytiser for the range admits about some of the LNER pacifics) but it may not be reasonable to make this particular comparison. I freely admit to knowing nothing about this particular prototype, however. From what I can see above, the platework on the ACE model looks good; I'm less than convinced by what I can see of the rest of it, particularly the chimney and dome.

Adam
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I think if I was building this for myself I would look into better castings. The chimney I have to live with but I too was looking at the dome. There is a more rounded one with the kit. I need to see which is closest. I would also got better valve gear if possible or at least cast cross heads and slide bars.
The Piercy models had quite a good reputation it depends what DJH did to get them in line with their own.
 
Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Genghis said:
Peter, what will you do for boiler bands?
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I always use Scotch magic tape. Lightly keyed and painted body or base lining colour. Then if needed I line while it is stuck to a piece of glass. It is then easy to cut into pre lined boiler bands it is easy to fit and when varnish stays put. I like it because of the ease of use. Much easier on taper boilers than brass. I use the same method even on plain non lined locos.
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
If you want a DJH kit from DJH you may want to think about it soon - I am sure I read in the last gazette that they are reducing the range and I think that the V1/3 might be one of the casualties.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:
If you want a DJH kit from DJH you may want to think about it soon - I am sure I read in the last gazette that they are reducing the range and I think that the V1/3 might be one of the casualties.
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The B1 has already gone, so I think this is good advice.
 
Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I have got this as finished just needs stripping and cleaning. I am quite pleases with it. Not sure if it is 100% correct but I feel it looks like the prototype.

Here are both sides I found the second dome that was in the kit I used this as I thing it is better.

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f.jpg
Next up is a high and low shot.

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I added a little more detail at the front including some oil pipework that always looks untidy.

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I had to make a lot of parts for the backhead these are more representations rather than scale copies but I think it looks the part.

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I Bought some new cellulose primer which is unfortunately white. I will have a ply on the cab roof see how it goes. If not I will go and get some synthetic grey which they have. I also got a litre of black should last a day or two. I have also decide to paint the frames etc of an Ivatt 2mt at sametime so will need to get that cleaned up too.
 
FiftyFourA

FiftyFourA

Western Thunderer
Peter

I have just come across your build. I built one of these 'kits' maybe 15/20 years ago and it was rubbish - but, like you, I learned alot by having to put it right. I did like your radial solution to the rear axle - did you guess at the radius or did you work it out. I notuice that you have a wire going through, is this for side control or self-centering?

I couldnt be bothered altering the so called valve gear so I got mine from Shedmaster (now Laurie Griffin) to save time.

I do like what you have done with the parts, as Mick says, it looks 'right'. And the backhead really looks the business.

Well done!
 
Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
FiftyFourA said:
Peter

I have just come across your build. I built one of these 'kits' maybe 15/20 years ago and it was rubbish - but, like you, I learned alot by having to put it right. I did like your radial solution to the rear axle - did you guess at the radius or did you work it out. I notuice that you have a wire going through, is this for side control or self-centering?

I couldnt be bothered altering the so called valve gear so I got mine from Shedmaster (now Laurie Griffin) to save time.

I do like what you have done with the parts, as Mick says, it looks 'right'. And the backhead really looks the business.

Well done!
Click to expand...

Thanks

As you say it is a bit of a bum kit. i think thinks have been altered but not had a test build. The radial was worked out by the Baldry method. The wire into the radial is for centralising and pressure onto the track. It has now has been redesigned to be held by a screw. With it soldered to the frames the radial box was not removable.

If I was going to keep this I would of done things a little differently. But as it will be sold there is only so much time and parts you can put into it.
I did all that I thought were the major things, I think I managed to get it to look right.
 
Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
We are now already for lining. It took far longer to paint than I thought I had to do a little sanding after priming, and I also had some moisture spray onto the roof that also needed sorting out. It happens sometimes it is a hazard of living near to a rain forest. I hope to start lining this week the paint will of had 5 days or so cure properly.

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I can also start the reassembly of the chassis and hopefully have it running again when the body is finished.

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Peter Cross

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I had a bit of a disaster with this, I found I had a finger print in the varnish on the side tank, I think I must of got some solvent on it. I was sort of resigned to having to strip it down and repaint. But first I tried white spirit on the varnish thinking if I lost the lining it would be quicker than a complete repaint. Well I was surprised that only the varnish came off. Have washed it quite a few times I was able to just revarnished with the matt varnish as I thought it was more satin than flat. All in all it I feel actually looks better now.

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