Punching rivets in strip brass .

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi guys , i have recently built a 10t LMS brake van kit which is a combination of resin whitemetal and brass . Rivets needed punching which normally is not a problem but some of these parts were very narrow , down to 1.2 mm wide . One part curled in two directions and after trying to flatten it didn't look the best at which point i stopped and decided i would add rivet transfers which i have .
My question is how do other people get over this ?
I've enclosed a picture as i know that is the going currency on W.T. , transfers are coming soon .
Cheers Paul162061567155731425486.jpg
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Very difficult.

you can always punch the rivets first, then cut out the strip, but that’s not much help if the strips are provided in a kit.

Are you using a rivet press?

Can you pre-drill dimples on the back so less metal is displaced?

Maybe “minimum rivet”, set your press to produce just enough rivet embossment to be seen?

Or solder your etch to a bit of brass with a slot in, raise the rivets and then unsolder & clean up?
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon & David , thanks for the ideas . I use a rivet press which has built umpteen kits and scratchbuilt locos .
The items that curled were some of the strengthening plates like the cross plate where the two cross frames meet and has four rivets . The rivets were half etched at the rear .
I've never really had the problem before and in this case i drilled a hole in the end of a piece of 3/16 silver steel and used it to tap the brass flat again placing the hole over the rivet .
Cheers Paul
 

AndyB

Western Thunderer
Maybe try annealing the brass first - that ought to help it be drawn / stretched more locally into the rivet press die.

Andy
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
As a last resort, ignore the half etched marks and add separate rivet heads individually. I've done many that way, by embossing Plastikard, cutting the rivet off with a scalpel and sticking it in place. Has the advantage of locating it precisely.

Mike
 

PhilH

Western Thunderer
If the rivet positions are marked by half etched hollows why not drill through and use pins to represent the rivets. Turn the pin heads down with a file in a mini drill to the required size of the rivet head. If you can't get pins small enough use small stubs of brass wire set through the strapping into whatever its fixed to with solder (if metal) or super glue (if plastic or wood), file the exposed end down to the required height and round the edges off with fine wire wool.

Rivets.jpg

These rivets were formed with short stubs of 0.4mm dia. brass wire

 
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