Re: It seems to be a tradition...
- Thread starter S-Club-7
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S-Club-7
Western Thunderer
It seems to be a tradition...
Start by spraying the timbers and sleepers with P797 Weathered Sleepers ensuring that there are no paint-free "shadows". Then dry-brush with P990 Weathered Wood to highlight the wood texture a bit and to lighten the colour a touch.
Then open up P997 Rusty Rails and P991 Track Dirt.
The rails are painted with an approx 2:1 mix of rust to dirt. Each brush-load is created by dipping into both paint tins so each brush-load is a slightly different colour. Work fast so that each brush-load is mixed into the previous one so that the differing colours blend together.
The chairs are painted with a 1:2 mix of rust to dirt, again each brush-load is different.
At this stage it all looks a bit too dark for me so a light misting from the airbrush with a light grey before adding some variations of rust -- Perfect Miniatures sell a 6-pack of acrylic paints in rusty colours for dry-brushing, and some Carrs weathering powders.
Then it's ballasting and planting weeds before dribbling oil and spraying P963 Brake Dust. Or should that be done before the weeds grow?
[attachimg=1]
The rust is a bit too orange on this one, but the model received a bit of damage so was repaired with the first rust-colour I could get my hands upon.
All colours are from Phoenix Precision unless otherwise specified, and need to be well stirred before and during painting.Dikitriki said:
Start by spraying the timbers and sleepers with P797 Weathered Sleepers ensuring that there are no paint-free "shadows". Then dry-brush with P990 Weathered Wood to highlight the wood texture a bit and to lighten the colour a touch.
Then open up P997 Rusty Rails and P991 Track Dirt.
The rails are painted with an approx 2:1 mix of rust to dirt. Each brush-load is created by dipping into both paint tins so each brush-load is a slightly different colour. Work fast so that each brush-load is mixed into the previous one so that the differing colours blend together.
The chairs are painted with a 1:2 mix of rust to dirt, again each brush-load is different.
At this stage it all looks a bit too dark for me so a light misting from the airbrush with a light grey before adding some variations of rust -- Perfect Miniatures sell a 6-pack of acrylic paints in rusty colours for dry-brushing, and some Carrs weathering powders.
Then it's ballasting and planting weeds before dribbling oil and spraying P963 Brake Dust. Or should that be done before the weeds grow?
[attachimg=1]
The rust is a bit too orange on this one, but the model received a bit of damage so was repaired with the first rust-colour I could get my hands upon.
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Simon Dunkley
Guest
It seems to be a tradition...
Lovely work there, on both the checkrail chairs and the stopblocks.
How easy is it to have these produced for other scales - I am thinking more of those with scale flangeways, etc, rather than scale/gauge hybrids which might require more work?
My own interests lie towards 1:64 and 1:32, but I could see a market for these in P4.
Lovely work there, on both the checkrail chairs and the stopblocks.
How easy is it to have these produced for other scales - I am thinking more of those with scale flangeways, etc, rather than scale/gauge hybrids which might require more work?
My own interests lie towards 1:64 and 1:32, but I could see a market for these in P4.
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
It seems to be a tradition...
Would there not be a need to check against available rail profiles - they are not all the same...28ten said:
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
It seems to be a tradition...
P4Track company do do checkrail chairs now...
Doh!Simon Dunkley said:
P4Track company do do checkrail chairs now...
S-Club-7
Western Thunderer
It seems to be a tradition...
The major problem would be that I don't think that it's worth trying in anything smaller than 1:43.5 as the process and materials just won't go down that small; at least not by using Shapeways. I did find a supplier who would 3d-print it in wax and then lost-wax cast from that. The problem was that they only cast silver, gold or platinum. Very expensive GWR chimney caps and safety valve covers for anyone?
Apart from the fact that Exactoscale already does check-rail chairs for 4mm scale, and much cheaper than can be done by 3d-printing, each scale would require drawing from scratch to accommodate the non-scale rail sections and compromises required by the 3d-printing process/materials.Simon Dunkley said:
The major problem would be that I don't think that it's worth trying in anything smaller than 1:43.5 as the process and materials just won't go down that small; at least not by using Shapeways. I did find a supplier who would 3d-print it in wax and then lost-wax cast from that. The problem was that they only cast silver, gold or platinum. Very expensive GWR chimney caps and safety valve covers for anyone?