Rebuilt Crosti 9f

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Gosh, a minefield indeed. I think you've come to the right decision about your particular loco running with a 1G tender - as also shown in OzzyO's lower, undated photo (on the S&C?). No centre step, as he notes.
Just shows we really need photos of our intended prototypes at the time period being modelled. Not always easy to obtain. One of the benefits of being on forums such as this.
Dave.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Gosh, a minefield indeed. I think you've come to the right decision about your particular loco running with a 1G tender - as also shown in OzzyO's lower, undated photo (on the S&C?). No centre step, as he notes.
Just shows we really need photos of our intended prototypes at the time period being modelled. Not always easy to obtain. One of the benefits of being on forums such as this.
Dave.

Hello Dave,

the dates have been added top one 1955 and the bottom one 1967. If I hover the curser over the picturs I get the loco number and the date.

OzzyO.
 

Richard Gawler

Western Thunderer
Before I start with the fibreglass pencil cleaning session tomorrow, does anyone use anything else to clean this sort of thing/mess up? I use wire wool and various grades of wet & dry paper as well, but wonder if there is something else I'm missing.
Please excuse the late reply.
I cleaned up some brass yesterday with Solvol Autosol on a scrap of fine wire wool. Afterwards, the solderability of the metal was really good, I was expecting the residue left by the polish to make things worse.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Having failed to get the self-contained buffers on my Wantage Tramway locomotive working properly, I was determined that the Crosti's would work.

Nick Dunhill very kindly sent me a sketch of how he does it. Mine are not quite as refined, but seem to work OK. The buffer housing were drilled out 4mm all the way through. Then I soldered a small washer partway inside the housing. The buffers were then assembled with the usual spring and retaining nut set-up. Pictures below hopefully explain better.

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Soldered onto the buffer beam.
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Just the front two to do now.

Must move that pesky front lamp bracket first though.

Mike
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Mike,

now to ask another question, why have you got G.W.R / western region lamp brackets on the rear of the tender?

As the 1G tender should have had B.R. standard lamp brackets in 1965 when it was coupled to 92021.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS, a photo showing 92233 in 1962 with the 1G tender shows standard B.R. lamp brackets.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Hi OzzyO

92021 ended up with tender number 1551. Records indicate this came from 92233, which had previously come from 92240. Or at least that's how I'm reading it. I previously found a picture online of 92240 which had the BR1G tender with the Western style brackets. I'm not saying its definitive, but it's good enough for me. I've got picture of 92021 from the rear, but the detail on the tender is not 100% clear. I'll have another look later this week/next week.

Cheers

Mike
 

chigley

Western Thunderer
Hi OzzyO

92021 ended up with tender number 1551. Records indicate this came from 92233, which had previously come from 92240. Or at least that's how I'm reading it. I previously found a picture online of 92240 which had the BR1G tender with the Western style brackets. I'm not saying its definitive, but it's good enough for me. I've got picture of 92021 from the rear, but the detail on the tender is not 100% clear. I'll have another look later this week/next week.

Cheers

Mike
hello Mike, i'm doing 92240, [mok] on the bluebell, originally with br1g, but now with br1c rebuilt, it's only 10 mins away from me:)

Ken
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
hello Mike, i'm doing 92240, [mok] on the bluebell, originally with br1g, but now with br1c rebuilt, it's only 10 mins away from me:)

Ken
Hi Ken

I must re-visit The Bluebell Railway as it's less than an hour from where we live. Haven't been up there for several years!

Have you got any pictures of your MOK 9f?

Mike
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
In Dave's photo, the tender has dual WR and normal lamp irons (the Lickey became part of the WR in the '60s).
92021 wasn't allocated to the WR, as far as I know, so it must have had standard lamp irons, otherwise the operators (LMR) wouldn't have any lamps that would fit. I would say the tender irons should be standard or dual, but certainly not just WR.
Dave.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
In Dave's photo, the tender has dual WR and normal lamp irons (the Lickey became part of the WR in the '60s).
92021 wasn't allocated to the WR, as far as I know, so it must have had standard lamp irons, otherwise the operators (LMR) wouldn't have any lamps that would fit. I would say the tender irons should be standard or dual, but certainly not just WR.
Dave.

Dual strikes me as quite likely - several SR/WR allocated locos, not only Standards acquired mixed sets including SR position irons to GW pattern (sometimes *only* GW pattern which made fitting headcode discs tricky, to say the least).

Adam
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I've removed the WR lampirons! :thumbs: For some reason I had it fixed in my head the WR lampirons were correct, but the input from cleverer Western Thunderers has made me realise the error of my ways.

While I sort out replacement normal lampirons I decided to modify the water filler. Having it open will hopefully inject a bit of life into the model. It's not fixed in place yet (I'll epoxy it in later).

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Cut the top off and soldered a rim of brass tube on. Then carefully (more luck than judgement) soldered the lid to a bit of brass tube.

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I'll also attach a handle to the lid.

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
We have a boiler!

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The half-etched line along the top caused a few problems as it was preventing me from getting a nice curve. But It's almost there. There should have been some sort of collar in the kit to connect the smokebox to the boiler, but I couldn't find it. Instead I cut the nickel silver disc that you can see in the picture above and used this as a former.

Yes, I know my soldering looks a bit rough, but it has actually flowed really well despite the tremendous heat soak you get with brass. I just don't see much point in cleaning it up if it's hidden.

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Mike
 
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