Rebuilt Crosti 9f

chigley

Western Thunderer
I've just noticed the part I've circled below should be at the bottom rather than at the side. Seems to move about a bit according to some pictures I've seen, but definitely at the bottom on my prototype. It's not a very complex part, so I might replace it with some sort of brass concoction as it'll be a bit stronger.
View attachment 179328
Mike
hello Mike, thats where the oiler goes

Ken
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Is that a type of 3D printed resin brass then?:D
Without the slide bars, I imagine the crosshead/piston rod has dropped down a bit, but there still looks to be quite and angle between the crosshead slipper and the slide bar mounting bracket, whereas they have to end up parallel. Is that all going to be OK?
Dave.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Is that a type of 3D printed resin brass then?:D
Without the slide bars, I imagine the crosshead/piston rod has dropped down a bit, but there still looks to be quite and angle between the crosshead slipper and the slide bar mounting bracket, whereas they have to end up parallel. Is that all going to be OK?
Dave.
Hi Dave.

I was in a bit of rush posting the picture and forgot to add the dialogue. Duh! :))

I had a set of Modelu 9f cylinder covers to go on the front, but broke one. So I cut the little sticky out bit off (note non-tech speak!) and used that instead. In the meantime I've ordered replacement cylinder covers from Modelu.

The angle between the piston/crosshead and slidebar should hopefully all tighten up once everything is in place. They've dropped a bit in the picture. This is one of the reasons I have made these assemblies removable, so that I can sort out any alignment issues. We shall see.

Mile
 

mswjr

Western Thunderer
Another useful picture i found that may help the build later.
 

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spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Cylinder drain valves from Ragstone.
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I'm not sure if I've made a very good job of these, so I've ordered another set to be on the safe side.
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I've also been modifying the Ragstone safety valves to fit. They are very nice, as are all the other Ragstone parts I've purchased.

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Trial fit:
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Rather than try to solder them into place I'll use Milliput. This'll allow me time to adjust their positioning. Also less fiddly.

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Cylinder drain valves from Ragstone.
View attachment 180346
I'm not sure if I've made a very good job of these, so I've ordered another set to be on the safe side.
View attachment 180347
View attachment 180348
View attachment 180349

I've also been modifying the Ragstone safety valves to fit. They are very nice, as are all the other Ragstone parts I've purchased.

View attachment 180350
View attachment 180351
View attachment 180352
Trial fit:
View attachment 180353
View attachment 180354
Rather than try to solder them into place I'll use Milliput. This'll allow me time to adjust their positioning. Also less fiddly.

Mike
Milliput didn't work out, so used 5 minute epoxy glue. :thumbs:

Mike
 

Richard Gawler

Western Thunderer
Milliput didn't work out, so used 5 minute epoxy glue. :thumbs:

Mlliput looks like it bonds onto brass, but really there is only stiction holding it in place. This annoyed me when I found out because I used Milliput on a few parts of my "Nellie" and I will have to re-do them one day. Next time I will try tinning the brass first. I mean, Milliput sticks to steel, lead, wood, plastic, there must be something peculiar about brass.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I've also had a go at making the pony truck pintle.

A brass bearing and some brass strip. It's not pretty, but fills a gap.
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The problem now is that it partly obscures the front chassis to body retaining screw/nut. :rant: So, it looks like the cutting torch will be brought out yet again to repostion the retaining nut and make a new crossmember.

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Mlliput looks like it bonds onto brass, but really there is only stiction holding it in place. This annoyed me when I found out because I used Milliput on a few parts of my "Nellie" and I will have to re-do them one day. Next time I will try tinning the brass first. I mean, Milliput sticks to steel, lead, wood, plastic, there must be something peculiar about brass.
I've used Milliput elsewhere and it has proved to be indestructible (as I may have accidentally dropped the Crosti body a couple of times!). Maybe it just depends on how it's being used.

Mike
 
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