Rebuilt Crosti 9f

spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
My super bodge-tastic method of electrical pickup appears to work! :eek:

I bought these diddy connectors of eBay and got round to wiring them up today. They're a bit delicate but I'm reasonably confident they'll be OK.:thumbs:
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This build constantly frustrates me with new challenges. It's been almost a year and a half since I started! I have to walk away from it sometimes and leave it for a day/week or two before re-commencing work on it. Otherwise I'll probably jack it in completely. Still, there's been no major disasters so far. Fingers crossed I'll get there.

Mike
 
spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Who wants to be a millionaire? Mike does! :thumbs: Why? Well, apart from being able to buy the odd mansion or two, maybe a yacht and a fleet of Lamborghinis I'd be able to afford to commission a set of milled 9f valve gear. But, alas I am somewhat fiscally challenged, so I'll stick with soldering many laminations of nickel silver together to create something resembling the real thing in miniature.
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But, the upside of all this is that the parts left on the etch is diminishing. Bonus!
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Mike
 
F

Fastdax

New Member
spikey faz said:
Who wants to be a millionaire? Mike does! :thumbs: Why? Well, apart from being able to buy the odd mansion or two, maybe a yacht and a fleet of Lamborghinis I'd be able to afford to commission a set of milled 9f valve gear. But, alas I am somewhat fiscally challenged, so I'll stick with soldering many laminations of nickel silver together to create something resembling the real thing in miniature.
Click to expand...

All that is gold does not glitter.
I got a set of milled Premier Components coupling rods, conn rods and valve gear for my 9F build (yet to start!) and I'm not all that impressed.
They are beautifully cut out and fluted, but they are all flat and the same thickness. The union link, for example, should be a 'dog bone' shape with forked ends. The PC part is just a flat rod with holes in the ends.
I'll probably end up using parts like the connecting rod, which is flat, but making those bits with forked ends from the DJH kit etches.
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
Fastdax said:
All that is gold does not glitter.
I got a set of milled Premier Components coupling rods, conn rods and valve gear for my 9F build (yet to start!) and I'm not all that impressed.
They are beautifully cut out and fluted, but they are all flat and the same thickness. The union link, for example, should be a 'dog bone' shape with forked ends. The PC part is just a flat rod with holes in the ends.
I'll probably end up using parts like the connecting rod, which is flat, but making those bits with forked ends from the DJH kit etches.
Click to expand...
I'm not a great fan either - unless he's changed his production method the last set I saw he was using an end mill for the fluting so there was no flare out at the end and it just looks wrong.

The union link is probably the easiest to scratchbuild. This was made with no special equipment , a piercing saw and a couple of needle files. Simply filed from a small length of steel strip ( prototypical colour as well ! ).
union - 1.jpeg
 
spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
Might an approach to Dave Sharp of MOK be a good thing?

OK, not milled motion work... probably all nickel silver castings so ought to be 3D.
Click to expand...
I'm sticking with the valve gear as per the frets provided in the kit, with a few Ragstone parts sprinkled into the mix. I'm sure the MOK parts would do the business, but I really need to reign in my spending on the Crosti. I've given up keeping a tally! :eek: I do however have a MOK kit to enjoy at some point in the future (but not another 9f!).

Cheers
Mike
 
spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I've been using the supplied rivets to make the joints between some of the valve-gear parts. Solder both sides of the rivet and then file down to a neat and tidy joint. Or in my case a slightly less messy joint!
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But I'm having reservations about doing this on the union link as I reckon heat soak from when I solder in the rivets will de-laminate some of the parts.
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So, thoughts are turning to putting a thread on the end of the rivet and using a small nut and some Loctite 243 to hold everything in place. The rivets are 1.2mm diameter, so I'm not sure what size thread I could cut.

Alternatively I could employ some weeny nuts and bolts with a short length of 1.2mm brass tube to act as a bush to stop the bolt thread cutting into the union link.

Is there another way, bearing in mind I don't own or have access to a lathe?

I'm not going down the route of hitting the end of the rivet and hoping it'll splay out enough to hold everything in place. Been there before and it doesn't work for me. Besides we're in the 21st Century! Something a bit more sophisticated than a hammer would be nice. :D

Cheers
Mike
 
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spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Richard Gawler said:
How about drilling out a small brass nut to be a close fit over the back of the rivet? Fill the pivot with oil and secure the nut with low temperature solder.
Click to expand...
Definitely an option. I've been largely lucky so far with my soldering by using oil, marker pen and chemical blackener to prevent solder getting in the wrong place. But I think my luck may run out at some point! :)

I think I'll first have a play with some of the small nuts and bolts I've got and see what I can come up with. I doubt it'll be to high quality engineering standards. If that then doesn't work I'll probably do as you suggest.

Thanks :thumbs:
Mike




 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Mike,

For moving parts like the anchor link, which is forked, I use small screws inserted from the back. I just run a tapping size drill through both parts and tap a thread all the way through. For valve gear it is 12BA that I use, tapping size 1.1 mm.
The screw put in from the rear locks both sides of the fork but still lets the trapped rod move. If needed the screw head can be turned down and thickness reduced after final fitting, or use countersunk heads if there is enough meat to take them. The angular movement is very small, loading light and wear very unlikely.
I use the same method for little end pins in the crossheads. Sometimes screwed in from the outside as there are usually clearance issues behind. The retaining nut is soldered to a bit of screwed rod. This photo of my WD shows how it looks.

Ian.
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