7mm Ressaldar's kit building swansong - Class 22

[Ressaldar]

I spent the best part of two hours this morning fettling the reporting numbers for No1 end



only to notice now that I have nicked the 3 at the bottom. Fortunately, John Peck (Precision Decals) supplies spares with every sheet that he produces and it will be another happy hour producing a replacement. At present they are only resting in the apertures as I have some trimming back of the back pieces to allow more light in.

I had originally intended to put the waterslide transfers between two layers o f 5 thou plasticard but even that had the front face just slightly proud of the box rim. However, I had also ordered a backlit set of transfers and these are directly printed onto plastic so I have an automatic 'glass face' and only using the one layer means that it can sit back into the opening as per the prototype.

I am out this afternoon so uncertain if I will get back to the bench today, tomorrow should see me finish both ends properly and turn to the lights, which will hopefully include the replacement red light that I ordered on Wednesday.

Sunday is Open Day at the Club so no more build progress until Monday.

regards

Mike

 

[Ressaldar]

A fruitful mornings work in that the 'A' end lights are now in and working





albeit still a bit on the bright side, but hopefully will be able to adjust with CV60? when I get the 'B' end sorted - but that is another tale as I have been waiting for the postman with replacement red lights since last Thursday (our last received post) hopefully, he will ring at least twice when he does put in an appearance!

regards

Mike

 

[rosspeacock]

Looks brilliant Mike.

Ross

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Ross,

many thanks for your comment. It is nearing completion and there is still time for the whole thing to go t++s up! Now that the lighting is complete, tomorrow should see the mating of the cabs to the body and that will be a load of fun...........................

regards

Mike

 

[rosspeacock]

Looking forward to the next installment.
Ross.

 

[Ressaldar]

Most of yesterday afternoon was spent attaching the masking tape on the ends in readiness for the blue paint to be applied this morning. I already had an aerosol of Rail Blue that I had in stock for some time so that was given a thorough shaking and then applied, unfortunately despite going on fairly well, it dried in an unacceptable manner, so a trip to the Motor Mart store who had made up the yellow for the ends and again, they turned up trumps as they not only did me an aerosol of RAL5020 they also did a small bottle of it and a small bottle of RAL1003 so that it could be brushed on for touching up purposes.

Here is the result of a couple of spray coats



with the masking freshly removed and left to harden off before tackling any remedial works. The body here is just resting on the chassis and some of the lighting wiring is not in position under the bulkheads at the 'A' end, hence the chassis showing.

I am quite satisfied with the overall finish and any minor touching up required will hopefully be covered up with the weathering.

more to come soon.

regards

Mike

 

[Pencarrow]

Very nice. Is that the undercoat for the gsyp livery that will be applied over the top before you post it to me?

 

[Ressaldar]

Sorry Chris, the gsyp livery came off with the masking tape!

cheers

Mike

 

[class27]

A good trick with rattle cans is to let them sit in warmish hot water for 5 mins prior to use, this thins the contents slightly and increases the pressure for spraying it also speed up the flash time on the paint. As the can gets emptier the water gets hotter, but don't overdo it. Lovely model, I keep thinking about it, then talk myself out of it.

 

[22045]

Mike
It is looking really great. I am looking forward to seeing it when I return from a foreign land.

Ian

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Ian,

have a safe journey and don’t forget your passport!

cheers

Mike

 

[Tim Hale]

A good trick with rattle cans is to let them sit in warmish hot water for 5 mins prior to use, this thins the contents slightly and increases the pressure for spraying it also speed up the flash time on the paint. As the can gets emptier the water gets hotter, but don't overdo it. Lovely model, I keep thinking about it, then talk myself out of it.

Hi,

Sorry to disagree but placing any pressurised container in hot water is a potential accident. This link might explain far better The Hidden Dangers of Aerosol Cans - Safety Management Group

Our apprentice blew a wash hand basin apart.

Thank you

 

[Ressaldar]

Things were going quite well with the final pieces being attached until I got to the last items of all, the buffers.....I thought that they might present a problem as the heads and rams are a single lost wax casting, including the thread for the retaining nut. My fears were answered when I started to fettle the head/ram casting in that the feed from the sprue


was not perhaps in the best place (although, I don't know where a good place would be) having used a slitting disc in the mini drill to part the castings from the sprue, there was still a some filing left to do. Once the casting was free, I had intended to try to run a 10BA steel nut down the thread as I do not have any dies but before I could get that far I set about the shanks and rams and in doing so, two of the shanks snapped off, so the decision was made to forget the springing aspect altogether and just glue the heads into the housings and be done with it.

Then came the transfers, all from Precision Decals. First job as usual was to apply a couple of coats of Johnson's Clear to the panels below the cab windows, (I didn't think that the electric flashes and shed code plate required any 'undercoat' treatment due to their small sizes) and the model was left to dry whilst I had lunch. I was somewhat shocked when I looked at the model after lunch as the areas that had been coated with 'Clear' had matted instead of remaining glossy, this has never happened before in all the years that I have been applying transfers. I decided to go ahead and apply the transfers and will apply satin varnish to the transfers when they have dried and keep my fingers crossed that that is the correct solution.





Weathering will be applied when the varnish is dry and it might be heavier in the cab areas than what was intended, we shall see.

In the meantime I shall conduct a few experiments with other aerosols and coating with 'Clear' to see if the problem is unique to this new paint as It didn't happen with the aerosols in stock or is there a 'shelf life' for the 'Clear' which I have had for quite a few years.

Worried of Wirral.

Mike

 

[jonte]

Sorry to hear that the latter part of the build as you describe has taken the shine off things slightly, but if it’s any consolation, I think it looks top drawer, Mike

Thinking back, I think they changed the name of Clear to something imaginative like Klear, but essentially it’s the same stuff - or so I’ve read.

Don’t know it it’s of use, but I believe Tim Shackleton is doing a weathering job in the latest Industrial Railways journal advertised elsewhere on the forum; from memory, he was an advocate of the stuff so perhaps it might be worth purchasing a copy to see if he’s still using it?

Best.

Jonte

 

[rosspeacock]

Looking very nice Mike. Sorry to hear about the problems you had with the buffers.
Great work.

Ross...

 

[LarryG]

Oh dear. You shouldn't have applied the transfers. You had a perfectly good glossy surface with the BR blue and the clear varnish wasn't necessary surely? All you can do now is remove the transfers and rub back down to the blue with Duraglit or similar then start again.

 

[simond]

Mike,

sorry to hear of your disappointments this late in the build. Good luck with the paint/transfers/varnish!

I was surprised to hear about exploding aerosols. Clearly it’s a pressure vessel, and if overpressurised, it’ll burst. It contains pressurised gas, some of which may be liquid, and which will boil instantly if depressurised, just like a boiler. But 120F sounds quite low, particularly given the temperatures which can happen in cars, or even shop windows, in direct sunlight.

I found this Aerosol Spray Paint Storage which dispenses similar advice, it mentions a design limit of 54C ( 130F) and “Temperature resistant to 170°C” which is obviously not an issue with hot water. I’m not sure what “Temperature resistant” means in this context, however.

I’d expect 54C to be as hot as hot water in a sink or bowl would be after a minute or two (domestic water recommended 60-65C to prevent Legionella) so if you can put your hand in the water, it’s probably safe for the aerosol. Boiling water might be another question, of course. The pressure inside at 100C will be approx 24% higher than at 25C. I’d be surprised that the safety factor is so low.

It won’t ignite (unless the gas job is on) but MrsD is unlikely to be impressed by a partially painted Deep Chrome Green kitchen / husband.

I’ve done it for years, I do concur that it works well, particularly on a cold damp day. Warm model, warm paint, outdoors, spray, back indoors and under a box whilst it dries.

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi guys,

thanks for the commiserations especially as the problem is self induced. I will get the T-cut out this morning and try rubbing down the small area at the bottom of the cab side at the 'B' end as Larry suggests and if successful, will do the rest. Fortunately, I do have a complete spare set of the cab side transfers (thanks to John Peck's forethought) so all is not yet lost.

regards

Mike

 

[Ressaldar]

I think that the disaster has been corrected. As stated above, I dusted the T-cut down from the shelf and carefully attacked each cab side until I could see gloss blue after wiping off the excess T-cut. I then had an idea that if I cut the transfer out to the cab side dimensions then that would also give me a 'gloss surface' which should match the rest of the loco. Fortune was on my side as there was sufficient transfer area including the carrier film to just fit the dimensions so I went for broke, applied the transfers and gave them a careful dab drying with some kitchen towel and walked away from the model to let it dry.

Here is the result on the Club layout this afternoon, taken with the phone camera,



looking more the part and ready for some weathering tomorrow.

The only thing that bugs me now is the superglue 'bloom' on the drivers doors on both sides which occurred following the attachment of the cabs onto the body, there is no access to the cab interior now so no chance of clearing the windows. All of the windows were installed using 'Glue 'n Glaze' to ensure no blooming but the was no alternative to using superglue to attach the cab to the body - somehow, there is no sign of the bloom on the second man's door window! Hey Ho.

regards

Mike



regards

Mike

 

[Muddysblues]

Hello @Ressaldar Mike, it’s all looking very nice, well rescued, to be fair on the cab window, how many of them where actually clean and see through in real life ? So I’d go with it being prototypical

best regards
Craig