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Discussion in 'Area 51' started by richard carr, 30 December 2020.
I do like that Adrian, I'm not going worry too much about my riveting in future !
I wonder if they welded around it because the rivets very leaking.
The guys who built the brand new tender for 73156 are close friends of ours so we were able to follow the build in great detail. It was fasinating to follow the progress. The whole tank assembly was welded roughly around 2007, so all the rivets are actually "cosmetic" which was painstainly added just before it was painted in 2016. Hence the reason weld and Rivets.
.....and all the effort we go to, to make things neat and tidy?!
Archers now doing 1:1 scale rivets then
Just like the Ffestiniog's most recent Fairlies, I understand - the heavily riveted tanks are actually welded throughout!
be cheaper to do it properly...
I have managed to do a bit more this week. The first thing is the mid tank bracket, the instructions suggest gluing this on at the end but 2 rivets get in the way of the bracket sitting flush against the frames.
the 2 rivets removed
and the bracket soldered in place
The next thing is the filter boxes, these solder easily onto the body as per he instructions then you need to add the pipe work to the pipe connectors
To do this the frames want to be at least tack soldered to the body but make sure the front steps are not in place yet.
I also fitted the buffers and the drag block
Over the weekend I have been progressing the 1F tender to try and get the body finished, and I'm almost there.
First off is the tender top footplate, this goes on to of the front steps but has an awkward fold that is about 2mm high, so to do this I used a pair of bending bars held in a vice, I did try a hold and fold tool but that wouldn't grip the edge firmly enough to complete the fold.
Now I have bent it over and I will hammer it flat with a leather hammer.
That worked really well.
Next I went back to detailing the rear of the tender first with the tank mounting brackets that fit under the buffer beam
I'll add the final one once I have sorted out the "missing" piece from above the buffer beam.
Next it was the hand rails, I have found that one of these is really helpful for forming several the same size.
No prize for guessing where to get one from, there is a long version too if you need it.
The main handrails in place before I solder them, I like to use a very simple jig for this to get a consistent space between the tender side and the handrail like this.
Next up is the dome, this needed a quick spin in the lathe to true up the bottom by taking 10 though off it.
The front roof needed adding too, this is a half etched piece that needs rolling to shape I used this bottle to do it, it is a bout 40mm in diameter.
Thats near enough to solder in place
So it's almost finished but there are a few issues at the back
You might think those 3 holes across the back are for more lamp irons, no wrong, the centre hole shouldn't be there but it will covered up by the tank capacity plate, the other 2 holes are about where there appears to be a pair of close together rivets on the real thing so I'm not sure how I'm going to do that.
Then on the bottom row of lamp irons there should be one in the middle but there is no hole to help you position it.
The front is Ok just the tender doors to add and the water gauge.
That looks really good
why dont our benches look like heathers
I made some more progress over the weekend, mainly cleaning up the other 3 tender bodies , adding the frames and filter boxes.
The other thing has been the steps for these 3, here they are before adding the handrails to them and cleaning up the overlays which are all a little bit too large so need filing back.
The next thing to do is to add the handrails to
the front steps, this is one of those things I find to be really fiddly.
I find that the best way to do this is to make the one of the arms quite a bit longer than the other so you can easily fit the first and then push int he second. I also found that the longer the arms are the easier it is to handle these.
Here they are all fitted waiting to be trimmed back.
The first pair of steps took me half an hour, the second 10 minutes and I managed the third one in 7 minutes, there really are benefits to doing more than one kit at once.
All trimmed up and ready to be fitted.
And here are the 1B tender bodies
A bit more more progress today, with all the steps fitted the drag beam buffers etc.
They are starting to like tenders now.
A bit more progress and some more research has revealed a few interesting things.
I have been detailing the back of the tenders. The 1B/C tender has the tank and buffer beam held on by bolts through pieces of angle iron, this is the Lee Marsh attempt at it.
The angle iron above the buffer beam looks pretty chunky when it isn't on the real thing
It is almost hard to see the top pieces on this tyne dock 9f
and on this one it looks like the angle iron has been removed ?
I also found out why there are 6 holes for the lamp irons
Thats because the tenders for the 76000s had 6 southern railway style lamp irons !
So they have been ordered from Laurie Griffin
So this is where mine have got to
I'm probably going to remove the upper angle iron as I think it is too heavy and of course the lamp irons will have to come off the tenders.
I think I need to make it clear, I will only be removing the lamp irons from the 76000 tender, the other 2 for the tyne dock engines are fine.
Coming to this late - but the extra set of lamp iron locations seems to have been universal across BR1 and 2 tenders. That said, I can point to a number examples of locos reallocated to the SR (including one I'm building a model of, 75003) which had the extra lamp irons popped on the front - GW and 'normal' pattern doubled up in that case - but not on the back.
A bit more work was done over the weekend
I started building the ladders and the doors were the other major area of work.
Making the ladder is a lot more fiddly than you might expect, even with the jig to help you.
I found the parallel clamp really useful to hold the ladder sides in place, but it was still very easy to knock the rungs out.
This just needs the rungs tiding up and its done.
Now for the tender doors, these turned into a chore.
The doors are in 2 parts the sideplates that fit to the tender and the doors that hinge on the side plates.
The side plates have a handrail in them that wants fitting first and the back needs to be filed flush once the handrail is in place.
The door then hinges off the side plate with a piece of 0.5mm wire.
Then I read the instructions again and realised that for the 9f tenders you need to file a rebate into the sideplates 4.1 mm high from the bottom and 1.4mm deep, basically up to the handrail.
This is pain to do especially when you have 6 doors to fit. I managed to hold the sideplate in a parallel clamp and hold that in a vice and file the rebate and then try and get it to the right shape.
Adding the doors is nice and easy those on the left for the 76000 with out the rebate and the rest for the 9fs.
With one set of doors fitted to the tender.
they say practice makes perfect. Ken
A bit more progress the bodies are almost done so I moved onto the brake gear for the tenders. Only one of these tenders will have the water scoop, the BR 1F tender as Consett 9fs were the only 9fs without a water scoop and the 76000 with a 1b tender didn't have them either as there were no water troughs on the southern region.
The first thing is to fit the brake cylinder and then the supports for the main brake shaft.
Then there is 2 castings for the brake shaft bearings so you can actually make the shaft rotate, these are held in place with some 0.5mm wire, I'm just putting the first piece in here.
You then need to make up the brakes as the shoes and hangars are separate castings.
I drilled out the hangars 1.1mm at the top and 0.8mm at the bottom so they would easily take the 1mm wire to hold the hangars in place.
The 0,8mm hole is enough to get the brake adjusters to fit.
This one looks nice but that too close and it will only lead to shorts.
Using a bit of paper to separate them, but that wasn't enough either
In the end I used some 0,5mm plastic card to get the right separation, especially for the rear to axles as they are compensated and can move almost 1mm
Almost everything in place now