7mm Richard's 9f workbench

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by richard carr, 30 December 2020.

  1. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I do like that Adrian, I'm not going worry too much about my riveting in future !

    Richard
     
  2. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    I wonder if they welded around it because the rivets very leaking.
     
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  3. MerseyMan

    MerseyMan Active Member

    The guys who built the brand new tender for 73156 are close friends of ours so we were able to follow the build in great detail. It was fasinating to follow the progress. The whole tank assembly was welded roughly around 2007, so all the rivets are actually "cosmetic" which was painstainly added just before it was painted in 2016. Hence the reason weld and Rivets.
     
    Last edited: 9 February 2021
  4. Deano747

    Deano747 Western Thunderer

    .....and all the effort we go to, to make things neat and tidy?! :)) :))

    Regards, Rob.
     
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  5. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    Archers now doing 1:1 scale rivets then :p
     
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  6. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Just like the Ffestiniog's most recent Fairlies, I understand - the heavily riveted tanks are actually welded throughout!

    Adam
     
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  7. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    be cheaper to do it properly...
     
  8. MerseyMan

    MerseyMan Active Member

    :)):)):))
     
  9. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I have managed to do a bit more this week. The first thing is the mid tank bracket, the instructions suggest gluing this on at the end but 2 rivets get in the way of the bracket sitting flush against the frames.


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    the 2 rivets removed

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    and the bracket soldered in place

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    The next thing is the filter boxes, these solder easily onto the body as per he instructions then you need to add the pipe work to the pipe connectors
    To do this the frames want to be at least tack soldered to the body but make sure the front steps are not in place yet.

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    I also fitted the buffers and the drag block

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  10. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Over the weekend I have been progressing the 1F tender to try and get the body finished, and I'm almost there.

    First off is the tender top footplate, this goes on to of the front steps but has an awkward fold that is about 2mm high, so to do this I used a pair of bending bars held in a vice, I did try a hold and fold tool but that wouldn't grip the edge firmly enough to complete the fold.

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    Now I have bent it over and I will hammer it flat with a leather hammer.

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    That worked really well.

    Next I went back to detailing the rear of the tender first with the tank mounting brackets that fit under the buffer beam

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    I'll add the final one once I have sorted out the "missing" piece from above the buffer beam.

    Next it was the hand rails, I have found that one of these is really helpful for forming several the same size.

    20210213_132726_HDR.jpg

    No prize for guessing where to get one from, there is a long version too if you need it.

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    The main handrails in place before I solder them, I like to use a very simple jig for this to get a consistent space between the tender side and the handrail like this.

    20210213_133719_HDR.jpg

    Next up is the dome, this needed a quick spin in the lathe to true up the bottom by taking 10 though off it.

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    The front roof needed adding too, this is a half etched piece that needs rolling to shape I used this bottle to do it, it is a bout 40mm in diameter.

    20210214_123526 - Copy.jpg

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    Thats near enough to solder in place

    So it's almost finished but there are a few issues at the back

    20210214_170524.jpg

    You might think those 3 holes across the back are for more lamp irons, no wrong, the centre hole shouldn't be there but it will covered up by the tank capacity plate, the other 2 holes are about where there appears to be a pair of close together rivets on the real thing so I'm not sure how I'm going to do that.
    Then on the bottom row of lamp irons there should be one in the middle but there is no hole to help you position it.

    The front is Ok just the tender doors to add and the water gauge.

    20210214_170543.jpg
     
  11. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    That looks really good
    John
     
  12. chigley

    chigley Active Member

    why dont our benches look like heathers
     
  13. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I made some more progress over the weekend, mainly cleaning up the other 3 tender bodies , adding the frames and filter boxes.

    The other thing has been the steps for these 3, here they are before adding the handrails to them and cleaning up the overlays which are all a little bit too large so need filing back.

    20210221_190256.jpg

    The next thing to do is to add the handrails to



    the front steps, this is one of those things I find to be really fiddly.

    I find that the best way to do this is to make the one of the arms quite a bit longer than the other so you can easily fit the first and then push int he second. I also found that the longer the arms are the easier it is to handle these.

    Here they are all fitted waiting to be trimmed back.

    20210222_203427_HDR.jpg

    The first pair of steps took me half an hour, the second 10 minutes and I managed the third one in 7 minutes, there really are benefits to doing more than one kit at once.

    All trimmed up and ready to be fitted.

    20210222_203800.jpg

    And here are the 1B tender bodies

    20210222_224852.jpg
     
  14. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    A bit more more progress today, with all the steps fitted the drag beam buffers etc.

    They are starting to like tenders now.

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  15. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    A bit more progress and some more research has revealed a few interesting things.

    I have been detailing the back of the tenders. The 1B/C tender has the tank and buffer beam held on by bolts through pieces of angle iron, this is the Lee Marsh attempt at it.

    20210227_175520.jpg

    The angle iron above the buffer beam looks pretty chunky when it isn't on the real thing

    9f tender tyne dock.jpg

    It is almost hard to see the top pieces on this tyne dock 9f

    and on this one it looks like the angle iron has been removed ?

    92150 tender view (2).jpg

    I also found out why there are 6 holes for the lamp irons

    76058 1965 tender crop.jpg

    Thats because the tenders for the 76000s had 6 southern railway style lamp irons !

    So they have been ordered from Laurie Griffin

    So this is where mine have got to

    I'm probably going to remove the upper angle iron as I think it is too heavy and of course the lamp irons will have to come off the tenders.




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  16. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I think I need to make it clear, I will only be removing the lamp irons from the 76000 tender, the other 2 for the tyne dock engines are fine.

    Richard
     
  17. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Coming to this late - but the extra set of lamp iron locations seems to have been universal across BR1 and 2 tenders. That said, I can point to a number examples of locos reallocated to the SR (including one I'm building a model of, 75003) which had the extra lamp irons popped on the front - GW and 'normal' pattern doubled up in that case - but not on the back.

    Adam
     
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  18. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    A bit more work was done over the weekend
    I started building the ladders and the doors were the other major area of work.

    20210305_154436.jpg

    Making the ladder is a lot more fiddly than you might expect, even with the jig to help you.

    I found the parallel clamp really useful to hold the ladder sides in place, but it was still very easy to knock the rungs out.



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    This just needs the rungs tiding up and its done.

    Now for the tender doors, these turned into a chore.

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    The doors are in 2 parts the sideplates that fit to the tender and the doors that hinge on the side plates.

    The side plates have a handrail in them that wants fitting first and the back needs to be filed flush once the handrail is in place.

    20210307_191235_HDR.jpg

    The door then hinges off the side plate with a piece of 0.5mm wire.

    Then I read the instructions again and realised that for the 9f tenders you need to file a rebate into the sideplates 4.1 mm high from the bottom and 1.4mm deep, basically up to the handrail.
    This is pain to do especially when you have 6 doors to fit. I managed to hold the sideplate in a parallel clamp and hold that in a vice and file the rebate and then try and get it to the right shape.

    20210308_115421.jpg


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    Adding the doors is nice and easy those on the left for the 76000 with out the rebate and the rest for the 9fs.

    With one set of doors fitted to the tender.

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  19. chigley

    chigley Active Member

    they say practice makes perfect. Ken
     
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  20. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    A bit more progress the bodies are almost done so I moved onto the brake gear for the tenders. Only one of these tenders will have the water scoop, the BR 1F tender as Consett 9fs were the only 9fs without a water scoop and the 76000 with a 1b tender didn't have them either as there were no water troughs on the southern region.

    The first thing is to fit the brake cylinder and then the supports for the main brake shaft.
    Then there is 2 castings for the brake shaft bearings so you can actually make the shaft rotate, these are held in place with some 0.5mm wire, I'm just putting the first piece in here.

    20210313_131951.jpg

    You then need to make up the brakes as the shoes and hangars are separate castings.

    20210313_162037.jpg

    I drilled out the hangars 1.1mm at the top and 0.8mm at the bottom so they would easily take the 1mm wire to hold the hangars in place.
    The 0,8mm hole is enough to get the brake adjusters to fit.

    20210313_162157.jpg

    This one looks nice but that too close and it will only lead to shorts.

    20210313_162334.jpg

    Using a bit of paper to separate them, but that wasn't enough either

    20210313_184622.jpg

    In the end I used some 0,5mm plastic card to get the right separation, especially for the rear to axles as they are compensated and can move almost 1mm


    20210313_191006_HDR.jpg

    Almost everything in place now

    20210313_191012.jpg
     
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