Sebastapol: Broad Gauge Rover

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Dikitriki, 25 July 2020.

  1. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Hi,

    Well, I never thought I'd have a thread in the WR Action part of the forum, but here I find myself working on a Broad Gauge Rover from the Finney7 kit.

    The kit is designed in sections to be screwed together when finally completed, so I shall photograph it in the same manner.

    These photos cover the completion of the Sandwich frames, page 11 of the instructions, and Running Plate and Splashers, page 13.

    P1010132a.jpg

    P1010133a.jpg

    P1010134.JPG

    P1010135a.jpg

    Richard
     
  2. 3 LINK

    3 LINK Western Thunderer

    You never know, this could be the slippery slope to all things Great Western.. :D

    It’s never too late you know ;)....

    Martyn.
     
  3. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Hi,

    Next section, the smokebox. The door itself is left until final assembly so that the smokebox and boiler can be screwed together. This is page 14 of the instructions.

    P1010141a.jpg

    P1010142a.jpg

    The chimney is copper-plated and the cylinder covers are nickel-plated.

    Richard
     
  4. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    On the BG website forum a Mr D Lane has just posted this excellent photo:
    Ian Crowder

    Richard
     
    Dikitriki likes this.
  5. Scale7JB

    Scale7JB Western Thunderer

    Great photo.

    On the inner carrying wheel at the front there seems to be a very noticeable difference in the wheel's tyre. Was it flangeless ?

    JB.
     
  6. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    I'll ask.

    R
     
  7. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    Lovely work Richard
     
  8. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    Richard,
    Re: tyre thickness on the Rover.

    One answer I got was:
    No, there seemed to be a deliberate policy of putting the carrying wheels with most remaining tyre thickness at the front. Its more prominent on earlier loco's rather than late BG.

    R
     
  9. Scale7JB

    Scale7JB Western Thunderer

    Thanks for that.

    JB.
     
  10. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Hi ,

    The cab has been completed:

    The roof is built on a separate cradle, and the cab floor slides in.

    P1010136a.jpg

    P1010137a.jpg

    P1010138a.jpg

    P1010139a.jpg

    The injectors on the cab floor are tricky as the control handle has to be soldered on to the round front surface without any sort of locator. It is something of a test of patience!

    The little toolbox on the outside of the left hand sheet also requires a lot of on/off filing to get a nice join with the splasher, especially if you are keeping all the sections separate for painting (as designed).

    This is page 16 of the instructions.

    Richard
     
  11. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    I'm following this with great interest. Looking at the (excellent) instructions, the inside motion looks a real pain!

    Wonderful work btw!..


    R
     
  12. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    The soldering is excellent. How is it done? What flux + solder combo are you using? A normal iron or RSU?

    Do you grit/sodium hydrogen carbonate -blast after each session?

    Much in awe ...


    Richard.
     
  13. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    I'll leave Richard to answer your questions, but on the second one are you asking if he rinses the workpiece in a sodium bicarbonate solution, or blasts the workpiece with sodium bicarbonate powder through a spray gun? I would not have thought that bicarbonate was abrasive enough if you mean the latter.
    Cheers,
    Peter
     
  14. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    Hi Peter, yes, apologies, I meant blasting with dry bicarb. rather than grit. Apparently it's less abrasive, less expensive and neutralising.

    best wishes,

    Richard
     
    P A D likes this.
  15. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Hi Richard,

    All old school. A temperature controlled iron, iron tipped bits. A lot of the basic framework is done with 'normal' reel solder 60/40 tin/lead, often with a micro flame . Then onto 145 solder if brass to brass or Carrs 100 solder if white-metal to brass. The flux is simple phosphoric acid diluted to about 10%. I just wash the workpiece after every session (unless I'm being lazy) with Mr Muscle or Barkeeper's Friend. I have to say the design of the kit parts play a huge part in it looking so tidy - most of the soldering can be done from inside. I will admit to being mean with the solder and spending a fair amount of time cleaning up as I go.

    Richard
     
  16. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    Hi Richard,
    well, that's a relief...I've got all that equipment too...but I don't think I could produce anything so neat and perfect as that.

    I really must try harder!

    Thanks for sharing,

    Richard.
     
  17. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    A bit out of order......

    I've been assembling the inside motion. There's only one scary bit, and that is when you have to solder the cranks with the motor in place. My approach was to solder the first crank in place without any other parts on the axle. Add the one set of eccentrics, the motor/gearbox, the second set of eccentrics and the second crank. All bar the second crank were pushed over against the first, soldered, crank, and a heat shield from loads of silver foil wrapped round the motor and gearbox. Only then did I pin and solder the second crank, being careful to direct the microflame away from the motor. There was still a fair amount of heat transmission along the axle, and the motor was noticeably warm, but it still worked!

    After that, it was the normal 3 hand job to get the piston rods and valve rods in their holes.



    Richard
     
  18. GrahameH

    GrahameH Western Thunderer

    A slightly strange but extremely pleasing sight to see all your work paying off Richard.

    As an aside, I missed a full unbuilt kit by one day... going for a song ! Hey ho !

    Looking forward to seeing this project unfold further.

    Grahame
     
    Bonky likes this.
  19. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Hi,

    While I'm on the chassis.....

    The basic chassis is entirely routine; compensated.

    P1010151a.jpg

    P1010152a.jpg

    The brakes are made to spring on to the wires through the chassis, which have had tube stops added. The brake unit is relatively complex, but I just followed the instructions and built them over the full-size drawing. The rear sand pipes are attached to the chassis, while the front sand pipes are attached to a bracket on the leading brake hanger. A great deal of thought went into the kit to make it break down for painting.

    P1010149a.jpg

    P1010150a.jpg

    Richard
     
  20. Bonky

    Bonky Active Member

    Fantastic work! Tempting ...very tempting...

    Richard S