Simon's workbench
- Thread starter Simon
- Start date
Simon
Flying Squad
Well I'm currently fitting the running gear together and need to share something with you 
Notwithstanding Professor Dale's sage observations about etching and without wishing to detract from the excellence of Slaters and the very fine people who own it and work there, one thing that REALLY hacks me off is the way that the bearings and journals of the wagon wheels that they supply (in G1 at least) don't reliably work together. A function of variations in tolerances of machining I think and it really irritates me. It isn't a problem every time but on this wagon for example, one wheelset is fine and the other isn't. (with the same bearings being tried in succession on the axle ends)
Hence I am farting about with wet and dry paper and will eventually get it to all work but at the expense of a really good engineered fit.
I think the journal sizes in G1 are bloody silly*. The 2mm axle ends on Daver Hammersleys wheels are much more appropriate and I am pretty certain that elementary geometry would show you get less friction and rolling resistance on a smaller diameter.
I do wish Slaters would sort this out
*Given that we are not carrying ten ton payloads and really don't need to be worried about bearing wear :
Notwithstanding Professor Dale's sage observations about etching and without wishing to detract from the excellence of Slaters and the very fine people who own it and work there, one thing that REALLY hacks me off is the way that the bearings and journals of the wagon wheels that they supply (in G1 at least) don't reliably work together. A function of variations in tolerances of machining I think and it really irritates me. It isn't a problem every time but on this wagon for example, one wheelset is fine and the other isn't. (with the same bearings being tried in succession on the axle ends)
Hence I am farting about with wet and dry paper and will eventually get it to all work but at the expense of a really good engineered fit.
I think the journal sizes in G1 are bloody silly*. The 2mm axle ends on Daver Hammersleys wheels are much more appropriate and I am pretty certain that elementary geometry would show you get less friction and rolling resistance on a smaller diameter.
I do wish Slaters would sort this out
*Given that we are not carrying ten ton payloads and really don't need to be worried about bearing wear :
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
I have had sets of wheels where I get a lovely running fit on one end of the axle, yet the other end won't even go into a bearing!Simon said:
You have a lathe, do you not?
3/16" collet in the collet chuck, use an axle end which fits to set your tool, and then skim any axles which are not right.
Yes.
Also, if the ends were 2mm (and accurate!) you could substitute ball races for the solid bearings.
28ten
Guv'nor
Yet in 4mm Exactoscale can produce some very nice accurate wheelsets http://www.exactoscale.co.uk/4mmrollingstockinst.htmliploffy said:
marsa69
Western Thunderer
It happens in real life mate. The recent fiasco with the MRA4 Nimrods for the RAF was even more hilarious when you realize that when BAe were rebuilding the original airframes they mass produced 18 or so pairs of new wings. The first pair fitted a treat to the first aircraft through the production line for its rebuild. The second aircraft went through and 'oh horlicks' was heard up and down the line. The reason for said exclamation? The wings didn't fit
They then tried on the next aircraft and same again, they still didn't fit. After much head scratching someone noticed the problem. When originally built each aircraft had its wings individually constructed to the airframe in hand so no two sets of wings were identical. There were discrepancies of up to 2" with some wings 
So if an engineering giants like De Havilland and BAe can screw it up what hope for mere model makers?regards,
Mark
Simon
Flying Squad
Simon Dunkley said:
Ooh I love it when you talk dirty ;D
Well yes, but at the moment all I've made is a bit of swarf and the clutch sometimes appears to be slipping which has put me off even more. I need someone who knows what they are doing to give me some tuiton, I do know some good people but at the moment everthing else is getting in the way.
So currently its a bit like entrusting the Apollo mission to a chimpanzee - ooh ooh ah ah ooh.....
That reminds me, where are the PG tips....
28ten said:I have yet to find any that are an accurate 2mm
Is that across the "Roxey" wheels and if so do all the bearings supplied nonetheless fit?
Having asked that I guess you didn't get the bearings as you are intending to ball race the whole job.
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Having fiddled with the wheels, including cutting the ends off the axles with my piercing saw as there was "negative endfloat" I next mounted the axlebox/wheel assemblies into the W irons. They now run nice and freely despite all my earlier mutterings.
I find that a reasonable ride height is obtained by cutting the supplied springs in half and then very slightly extending the resulting two halves with pliers. With a bit of weight its buffers will then line up with finished stock. I don't know how you'd get it to sit at the right height by following the instructions at this point
Next is the roof, I think in this scale a bit more texture is required so have stuck another patch of old shirt across the moulded roof. This time I stuck it with copydex (phew, what a whiff) and then superglued the "tucked under edges" while holding the fabric taut.
Here is the result so far out on the line this morning.
Despite all my grumbles, it does make up into a really good looking model - who'd be a kit manufacturer eh?
Simon
I find that a reasonable ride height is obtained by cutting the supplied springs in half and then very slightly extending the resulting two halves with pliers. With a bit of weight its buffers will then line up with finished stock. I don't know how you'd get it to sit at the right height by following the instructions at this point
Next is the roof, I think in this scale a bit more texture is required so have stuck another patch of old shirt across the moulded roof. This time I stuck it with copydex (phew, what a whiff) and then superglued the "tucked under edges" while holding the fabric taut.
Here is the result so far out on the line this morning.
Despite all my grumbles, it does make up into a really good looking model - who'd be a kit manufacturer eh?
Simon
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon.
Exellent work there mate
. G1 certainly has the WOW factor 
Cant wait for some HYDRAULICS to appear on your railway
Rob :wave:
Exellent work there mate
. G1 certainly has the WOW factor Cant wait for some HYDRAULICS to appear on your railway
Rob :wave:
28ten
Guv'nor
They are not 2mmSimon said:
the thing with ballraces is that they need to be a push fit onto the axle to work properly.I do wonder why slaters persist with this MR stuff as it is pretty limited appeal in a minority scale :scratch: if they 'blew up' their LNER brake van it would have a wider market, and why not do a 4F instead?
Simon
Flying Squad
Another positive flowing from preparation for the AGM display was that I got on with the second point for the garden so that I could display the benefits of finer standards.
Last night I got it off the board and finished off all the remaining rail fixings. All I now need to do is fabricate and fit the tiebar, solder strengthening piece(s) between crossing nose and wing rails and attach electrical feed wires - not really finished then
Mind you, I can now take it out into the garden and see what it will look like in place
I got out the templot print for the next turnout, a "normal" LH C10, that Simon Dunkley very kindly printed off for me a few months ago.
I was shocked to see how long it is, it will use 41 crossing timbers as opposed to 43 for the curved C10, so not much shorter at all. It will look very nice but I think I ought to drop down to a "sharper" spec for the turnouts leading in to the yard and on the sidings.
Simon
Last night I got it off the board and finished off all the remaining rail fixings. All I now need to do is fabricate and fit the tiebar, solder strengthening piece(s) between crossing nose and wing rails and attach electrical feed wires - not really finished then
Mind you, I can now take it out into the garden and see what it will look like in place
I got out the templot print for the next turnout, a "normal" LH C10, that Simon Dunkley very kindly printed off for me a few months ago.
I was shocked to see how long it is, it will use 41 crossing timbers as opposed to 43 for the curved C10, so not much shorter at all. It will look very nice but I think I ought to drop down to a "sharper" spec for the turnouts leading in to the yard and on the sidings.
Simon
D816Foxhound
Western Thunderer
Simon,
The van looks very nice, I like the new doors and your shirt tops off the model, literally!!
Roger
The van looks very nice, I like the new doors and your shirt tops off the model, literally!!
Roger
Mr Tiger Viking
Western Thunderer
Very Nice Simon, have you considered selling shirts in your shop for modelling purposes ! however more seriously have you thought about removing some of the shirt to expose the wood beneath?
Cheers
Steve
P.S. I do like the Gloucester unit lodged upon the small open wagon, Is this going off to the Gloucester Wagon & Carriage works ?
Cheers
Steve
P.S. I do like the Gloucester unit lodged upon the small open wagon, Is this going off to the Gloucester Wagon & Carriage works ?