Slow starter in S7 - Peckett Class E 0-4-0ST

[simond]

As long as the crossheads don’t bind, and are oiled, and provided the loco isn’t destined for a toy-shop window roundy-roundy, I think w/m should be entirely adequate.

 

[Marc Dobson]

I have had no problems with the W/M ones on the 3 have. If it an't broke don't fix it.

 

[NewportRod]

Would it be worth changing the whitemetal slidebars to something a little harder before you go to far?

Thanks for the suggestion JB and very timely too. TBH I would be more confident with N/S but I am encouraged by Simon and Marc's comments and I think I'll stick with whitemetal. And I've completed the other side now.
R

 

[NewportRod]

Cylinders and connecting rods on.
and it looks like there's sufficient clearance, on this side at least, without having to adopt more sophisticated methods. However on the other side there is some interference, but I hope that I can get around that simply by thinning down the 12BA nut in the crankpin.

A view at this enlargement certainly shows up 1) my awful soldering (very tentative with whitemetal) and 2) Col/Eastsidepilot's lovely turning!

 

[Marc Dobson]

That's where I used the threaded bush. It removes the need for thenut completely.
Marc

 

[NewportRod]

That's where I used the threaded bush.

Marc, do you use a commercial threaded bush or do you turn it up yourself?

 

[Marc Dobson]

I got them off Ebay as a pack of six

 

[NewportRod]

I got them off Ebay as a pack of six

Interesting, thanks Marc. You (or anyone else) don't happen to have a link do you?

 

[Marc Dobson]

they are sold by Gladiator but the chap who was selling them on ebay isn't selling them at the moment
this is what it says on the packet
O gauge threaded crankpin bushes tapped 10ba

Marc

 

[NewportRod]

Thanks Marc, I've found them on the Gladiator site, but they are out of stock there too. But thankfully thinning down the nut has done the job - I just was thinking in that an extra bit of clearance would make it more robust a solution. I guess I can always retrofit them later if I run into problems.

 

[simond]

I make my own. There’s some info here:

Second hand Duchess

and here

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/129812-second-hand-duchess/&do=findComment&comment=3120250

HTH
Simon

 

[NewportRod]

Lovely work Simon.

 

[NewportRod]

The design for constructing the Peckett revolves around producing five sub-assemblies, viz. chassis, footplate, tank, cab and firebox, which can, to a large degree, be progressed independently. This proved a boon last night when I took most of the kit to the clubrooms (yes, we're back, hurrah) but was remiss enough to leave several key components at home. Here are three of the sub-assemblies simply placed together to give a false impression of advanced progress.

 

[NewportRod]

Another week and a little progress to show.



One occasion where I have deviated from the instructions is that I have attached the plate below the rear of the tank (does this have a name?) to the footplate rather than the underside of the tank. I expect I'll find out later that this is a mistake, but we'll see.

 

[simond]

Rod,

I’m assuming “the plate below the rear of the tank” is the side of the firebox.

I’m not familiar with this kit, but the join between footplate assy and tank assy could well be better hidden under the tank than on top of the footplate. But I guess it might all become a single unit anyway unless you’re making sub assemblies to make painting easier?

Atb
Simon

 

[AJC]

Rod,

I’m assuming “the plate below the rear of the tank” is the side of the firebox.

I’m not familiar with this kit, but the join between footplate assy and tank assy could well be better hidden under the tank than on top of the footplate. But I guess it might all become a single unit anyway unless you’re making sub assemblies to make painting easier?

Atb
Simon

Not in the case of Pecketts - it's a tank support. A near universal feature of their designs (and Swindon's panniers of course) as an alternative to doing what, say, Hunslet did and bracketing the saddletank on the cab front. In this way the boiler doesn't bear the weight: it fgoes throught the footplate and is borne by the frames and similarly at the front by the smokebox.

Adam

 

[simond]

Thanks Adam,

Didn’t know that, but I did wonder about the fairly chunky rivets.

The buttressed front of a Peckett smokebox is, I guess a similar design feature, though I’m not sure how that brackets to the frames below the footplate.

Atb
Simon

 

[NewportRod]

Thanks for your comments Simon and Adam.

I did indeed attach (what I can now call) the tank support to the footplate to make that joint less apparent being hidden, at least from most viewing angles, under the tank.

Here's a view showing an operating rod disappearing behind the support plate.



Rod