7mm Steph Dale Split Axles and a JLTRT Class 26

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I was chatting to Scale 7 JB the other evening about split axles and he reminder-ed me about Steph's version 3 of split axles.

Here's the link to Steph's page if you want the full details

Split axle pick-up in 0-gauge, Page 3

In short though, to split the axle you start by drilling right through the axle with a 2 mm drill bit. It doesn't need to be centred or anything so a hand drill would be fine, but as I have a lathe I used it. In fact ont he lathe you actually want to use a slightly larger drill bit I used a 2.2mm one. Then cross drill some 1mm holes through the axle. Then you put a piece of 2mm grp rod into the axle with lots of dev con expoxy glue. This is why I needed a bigger drill bit as 2mm rod does not fit in a 2mm drilled on a lathe, it would fine using a hand held drill as you are bound to get a bigger hole than 2mm.

This is what you end up with.

IMG_1164.JPG

I made a batch of 6 split axles, 3 for me, 2 for JB and 1 spare, the top 3 have been drilled through and drilled across and had the grp rod inserted. The bottom 3 have then been split in the lathe using a 0.5mm grooving tool. They still need to be cleaned up. I baked the axles in the oven at 70 degrees for half an hour. The Dev Con was fully hardened when they came out of the oven.

I have to say that these were much easier to make than I had expected, it took less than 2 hours in total to make 6, including cleaning up the glue which is probably half the time. The glue bit is the only annoying thing as it does tend to get pretty messy. I will certainly be doing some more in the future.

I decided to do this as I have a JLTRT class 26 that I bought on E Bay about a year ago. Its a lovely model but of course it was finescale not S7 so while converting it I though I might as well bin the plunger pickups as they aren't going to work and fit split axles. The chassis is already split so all you need to do is add the axles.

IMG_1168.JPG

Here's the power bogie, fortunately it came apart quite easily, I decided to cut off the rear brake connectors otherwise you cannot get the bogie sides off at all, otherwise it came apart nicely.

IMG_1165.JPG

Here's the body minus bogies, who ever painted it did a really nice job.

IMG_1172.JPG

And here it is back on its bogies all converted with added sound and about 3lbs of lead to give it some traction.

There is one more thing to do though, the multiple working connector that rubber tube is about a scale 3 inches thick when in reality its less than an inch. So those have been binned the multiple working bits removed and drilled to take 0.7mm copper wire.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Richard,
It's always good to see people making good use of split axles and the type you've made are really rather neat - not my idea either so I can be reasonably objective in my views!
I've never found a need to bake out Devcon 2 ton, but am pleased it's worked for you. I may yet try that.
I take it you had no difficulties getting hold of the GRP rod? Can you name your supplier please? It's a question I'm often asked and with Bristol Kites now closed it would be good name an alternative.
Steph
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Steph

These are really good, I expected it to take ages to make them but it doesn't, next time I will do a larger batch, the time per axle will be even less then.

I used Carbon Fibre profiles, the rod was cheap £1.05 per metre, but the postage was crazy !

I have what I hope is a life times supply.

Richard

Carbon Fibre Profiles
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
Lovely kit to build, but the front windows are only correct for a refurbished 26, where they rounded the corners with fillets in order to refit the windows with rubber beads.
This pic is handy to show some of the changes made when refurbished as per the JLTRT kit.
I backdated mine as you will see from my avatar, you could do this one I think with a file and have a go at flush glazing it too, it makes a massive difference!
https://flic.kr/p/8ZFJ5i
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
I take it you had no difficulties getting hold of the GRP rod? Can you name your supplier please? It's a question I'm often asked and with Bristol Kites now closed it would be good name an alternative.
Steph
Steph
I think the clue was 'kites'. Would this be a good substitute source?
Dave
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Lovely kit to build, but the front windows are only correct for a refurbished 26, where they rounded the corners with fillets in order to refit the windows with rubber beads.
This pic is handy to show some of the changes made when refurbished as per the JLTRT kit.
I backdated mine as you will see from my avatar, you could do this one I think with a file and have a go at flush glazing it too, it makes a massive difference!
26004 Glasgow Works


Thanks for that Cliff, but on this occasion the only mod I'm doing is the multiple working connector wire, I hate those being too thick and it would be so easy for JLTRT to fix that.

Have Heljan ones got the right shaped windows ?

Richard
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
The Heljan 26 is better for doing an original 26, but it still has slightly more rounded corners, here is one I have been working on fitting my turned Lucas lamps and JLTRT pipes.
My comparison shot of my JLTRT 26 as I reprofiled the windows as well, I did more to them after this shot was taken as well.
Heljan 26 032.jpg

modified JLTRT 26 for WT.jpg
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Richard,

Would the split axles be suitable for power driving axles, i.e direct from a gearbox or sprocket driven from a chain, or is it intended that they are only used for pickup axles?

Cheers
Lee
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Lee,
They work fine for either, but I tend to use ball races for bogies with Delrin drive chain, so no split axles as passing current across a ball race is a bit 'iffy'. If the convenience of split axles is desired on a chain-driven bogie then I tend to use a length of epoxy-dipped silver steel as the centre pin; there are some slightly whacky forces at play when using chain drive.
Steph
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,

Thank you for your reply and very informative answer. I'm really sorry but I don't understand what you mean by 'ball race', it's not something that I am familiar with in terms of loco drive mechanisms/ electrical pick-up. Do you mean a ball race (as in a bearing) instead of the brass top-hat?

The reason I asked my question is because I have only built JLTRT locos (well actually I am only on my second build at the moment) and it would seem that having split axles all round would be a perfect solution. This would give electrical pick-up on every axle rather than, at present, opposing sides on opposing bogies.

To date I have used the Roxey Mouldings wheels and only used one wheel per axle as a means of achieving electrical continuity.

Cheers
Lee
 
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Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Ball race - yes, ball-race bearing is exactly what I mean. And yes, I mean instead of top hat brass bearings.

Split axles is a logical way of getting all-wheel pick-up and has the advantage that it's pretty-much maintenance-free. For trailing bogies split axles and plain bearings make a lot of sense - it's the same sort of approach I use on my steam locos, where the tenders are sprung and have split axles, so I can get away without having to add loads of pick ups to the locos, where they can be visible or otherwise tricky.

When it comes to the driven bogie you may decide that split axles (and more pick-ups) is a better solution than ball races and wipers or plungers. I've seen good-running models with either, but I do tend to try and get all wheels picking up if I can.

Steph
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
I'd like to try split axles on my next class 40. 6 split axles would give great pick-up.... I guess as you say though the proof would be how the split axles deal with the delrin chain/ sproket drive. I'm not a fan of having the plunger pick-ups adding the drag, but then perhaps I have always set these up incorrectly. At the moment I currently only have pick-ups on each half of the bogie and the other half is isolated by silica washers :( .... what a waste!!

Thank you for replying Steph, I certainly need to look at this and work out a way of doing it as I have no specialist tools for making these.

Cheers
Lee
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Lee

I'm sure the split axles will work just fine on the driven axles. My 26 has delrin drive, one of the split axles has a delrin cog on it and it works just fine. The only reason I didn't change the powered axle was because I didn't want to have to remove the original axle, that was too much like hard work and a real risk of damaging the bogie.

When you build your 40 be careful with how you get the leading axle to work, its the one thing in the kit that isn't that well thought out.

Richard
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard, if your are going to do some more split axles I would be interested. Give me a nod when you intend to do it? Regards.

Len
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Lee

I'm sure the split axles will work just fine on the driven axles. My 26 has delrin drive, one of the split axles has a delrin cog on it and it works just fine. The only reason I didn't change the powered axle was because I didn't want to have to remove the original axle, that was too much like hard work and a real risk of damaging the bogie.

When you build your 40 be careful with how you get the leading axle to work, its the one thing in the kit that isn't that well thought out.

Richard

Hi Richard,

Thank you for your reply and it's reassuring to know that splitting axles for all axles 'should' be ok. It will be a few weeks before I make an attempt at splitting an axle anyway and perhaps a month or so before I get my second JLTRT class 40 to have a go using this method. First one is almost finished:

40118 numbered No 1 end.jpg

In the meantime if you decide to go into producing and selling split axles let me know as I may be in the market for some..... pending the outcome of my attempts.

Oh, by the way... really like your 7mm class 40!!!

Cheers
Lee
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Lee (and Len)

I started this thread to encourage others to make their own, as it is in fact really easy, much easier than I expected and didn't take anymore time than it would to fit wiper pick ups. I have no intention of going into production to make them.

Your 40 looks great, but there does seem to be a missing axle on that front bogie, is there any reason for that ?


Richard
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Lee (and Len)

I started this thread to encourage others to make their own, as it is in fact really easy, much easier than I expected and didn't take anymore time than it would to fit wiper pick ups. I have no intention of going into production to make them.

Your 40 looks great, but there does seem to be a missing axle on that front bogie, is there any reason for that ?


Richard

Hi Richard,

I'm sure if I follow Stephs instructions making the split axles won't be a problem. First things first though.... I need a piercing saw and something to hold the axles in whilst I cut/ drill them. Having a lathe must be a real bonus!!

Regarding the front pony axle, I have just not put it back in yet as I find removing the bogie side frames quite difficult when that is installed. I guess a job for the next day or so.

Cheers
Lee
 
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