Tales from the airbrush & the scalpel - simon78s workbench
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Hi,
Thank you for all the likes, The first few posts will be of items I have done recently. I will be mixing in stuff I am working on at the moment just so you don't get bored
Keeping on a Tyne docker thyme, here is a 9F conversion that I did.
After taking the last pic I re-worked the water mark from the wash out plugs on the side as they where a bit too heavy but was quite prominate on the proto picture I was working from
Cheers
Simon
Thank you for all the likes, The first few posts will be of items I have done recently. I will be mixing in stuff I am working on at the moment just so you don't get bored
Keeping on a Tyne docker thyme, here is a 9F conversion that I did.
After taking the last pic I re-worked the water mark from the wash out plugs on the side as they where a bit too heavy but was quite prominate on the proto picture I was working from
Cheers
Simon
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Tyne dock - Consett ore trains used specialised air braked hopper wagons so locos had to be fitted with air pumps to work them, I think the air supply may also have been used to open the wagon doors as well. It's a very interesting operation, short trains and steep hills with locos front and rear for most of the trip, perfect O gauge train lengths. I think it's nine wagons with a pair of 9F's and eight wagons with 01's.
Nice looking locos, I think the 9F may be a little too clean for Tyne dock work though
Nice looking locos, I think the 9F may be a little too clean for Tyne dock work though
AJC
Western Thunderer
Almost right: the hoppers were actually vac' braked in the 'normal' fashion and the doors were air operated. In 4mm, Dave Bradwell and Dave Alexander make kits. Does anyone make one in 7mm?
One small point about the weathering though: I don't thing that I have ever seen air pumps like that, they are almost invariably coated heavily in oil, likewise the motion. I think it's all a bit 'flat' as it is at the moment but perhaps that's just me?
There are some excellent detail pictures of a - bulled up - 92063
here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/52467480@N08/sets/72157628244900523/page4/
This is more representative of 'normal' operation I reckon:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/7803097972
Adam
Hi,
As has been mentioned the air pumps where needed for the doors, As far as I am aware there isn't one in 7mm. I have the Dave Bradwell kit on the pile to do and I have seen the Dave alexander one and it looks quite tasty.
AJC, I know what you mean about the pumps and the motion, however the pictures that I was given by the customer to work too didn't have the heavy oil coating which I could only guess was quite soon after it received the pumps as a bit of research on flickr showed the shiny oil residue around the pumps on this particular loco.
Jordan, the O1 was a case of removing and relocating a handrail higher up the firebox side to enable the pumps to be added to the side. Two tanks where added, one on each underside of the footplate with pipework running towards the inside of the chassis frames, Extra pipes running under the handrail to the smokebox.
The 9F was much the same apart from the extra work of having to cut some of the footplate on the side.
Cheers
Simon
As has been mentioned the air pumps where needed for the doors, As far as I am aware there isn't one in 7mm. I have the Dave Bradwell kit on the pile to do and I have seen the Dave alexander one and it looks quite tasty.
AJC, I know what you mean about the pumps and the motion, however the pictures that I was given by the customer to work too didn't have the heavy oil coating which I could only guess was quite soon after it received the pumps as a bit of research on flickr showed the shiny oil residue around the pumps on this particular loco.
Jordan, the O1 was a case of removing and relocating a handrail higher up the firebox side to enable the pumps to be added to the side. Two tanks where added, one on each underside of the footplate with pipework running towards the inside of the chassis frames, Extra pipes running under the handrail to the smokebox.
The 9F was much the same apart from the extra work of having to cut some of the footplate on the side.
Cheers
Simon
AJC
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
I can't say that I've seen any reasonably sharp pictures that show that sort of flatness on the motion of any steam loco (at least, not in service), but some of the grainer reproductions do give that impression. This shot of 92099 at Neville Hill shows a loco that doesn't look to be in steam and might have been out of service for a little while in the dusty environs of a shed:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24041160@N02/6775777213/in/set-72157622560707494
Even so, the sheen is visible on the motion, wheels and, especially, the bottom part of the pumps.
Air pumps of that sort require an awfully large amount of oil to keep going and they still stuck - witness the dents on the casings seen on all of the Isle of Wight O2s, for example - so the oil is a condition of the thing. The steam reversers fitted to some SR types (Qs and Q1s, for example) were very similar. On the Q1s, these were sited above the LH middle driver and this wheel was always covered in oil as a result. This won't have helped their stopping power... I'm not sure that I've seen that particular weathering pattern modelled, however and mine isn't done yet.
The general colour looks about right though. Acrylics? Enamels?
Adam
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon I've just looked at the AK site could you possibly tell us which pigments that you used and how you put them on did you use a brush and if so how .Hope you don't mind me asking
Regards
John
Regards
John
HI John,
Sorry for delay in replying, been busy with work.
The pigments i use are
Dark rust
Medium rust
Light rust
Smoke
Black
and salt streak for ships - not a pigment but what they call a weathering effect.
I use two methods for the pigments.
1) Apply dry around the area I want and then add a little whitespirt/turps. This makes the pigemnts deslove a little so you can work them and then you leave to dry
2) Much the same as above but reversed, wet the area first and then add the pigment powder using a brush and then you can pull the pigments down the side to create streaks etc.
Much the same for the salt streaks only you put a small amount on to the place you want it to start and with a slightly moist brush pull the streak in direction of where it would run and then keep working until it is the effect you are looking for.
with all the weathering i do i seal the underlying paintwork first using a coat of Klear floor polish as it means if something goes wrong you can just remove the problem and start again.
Hope the above makes sense and helps
I am about to do a bridge side if you would like a step by step done??
cheers
Simon
Sorry for delay in replying, been busy with work.
The pigments i use are
Dark rust
Medium rust
Light rust
Smoke
Black
and salt streak for ships - not a pigment but what they call a weathering effect.
I use two methods for the pigments.
1) Apply dry around the area I want and then add a little whitespirt/turps. This makes the pigemnts deslove a little so you can work them and then you leave to dry
2) Much the same as above but reversed, wet the area first and then add the pigment powder using a brush and then you can pull the pigments down the side to create streaks etc.
Much the same for the salt streaks only you put a small amount on to the place you want it to start and with a slightly moist brush pull the streak in direction of where it would run and then keep working until it is the effect you are looking for.
with all the weathering i do i seal the underlying paintwork first using a coat of Klear floor polish as it means if something goes wrong you can just remove the problem and start again.
Hope the above makes sense and helps
I am about to do a bridge side if you would like a step by step done??
cheers
Simon
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon -
9Fs and O1s - cant go wrong!
I like the tonal variations on the 9F body - nice work , I think I agree with Adam, the motion looks a little flat to me, maybe there should be a more oily, greasy look. But - weathering can be so variable and inconsistent, so anything is possible.
The one thing I don't like is the visible screw in the return crank. In my 4mm days I filled those with Squadron filler. It could always be dug out if necessary...
Regards
Tony
9Fs and O1s - cant go wrong!
I like the tonal variations on the 9F body - nice work , I think I agree with Adam, the motion looks a little flat to me, maybe there should be a more oily, greasy look. But - weathering can be so variable and inconsistent, so anything is possible.
The one thing I don't like is the visible screw in the return crank. In my 4mm days I filled those with Squadron filler. It could always be dug out if necessary...
Regards
Tony
Hi Tony,
Many thanks for the comments. I know what you mean about the screw on the return crank, if it was mine I would have done the same mod as you mention, however saying that I would have got the Dave Bradwell Chassis kit so there wouldn't be that problem
but as its a customers it has to be left as is.
After working on both the 9F and O1 I do fancy getting a couple for my collection, in 2mm and 4mm
Cheers
Simon
Many thanks for the comments. I know what you mean about the screw on the return crank, if it was mine I would have done the same mod as you mention, however saying that I would have got the Dave Bradwell Chassis kit so there wouldn't be that problem
but as its a customers it has to be left as is.After working on both the 9F and O1 I do fancy getting a couple for my collection, in 2mm and 4mm
Cheers
Simon
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon
AJC
Western Thunderer
Excellent picture that, and of one used on the SR. Look at all those lamp irons... GW pattern top and bottom centre, 'normal' on bottom corners and, ironically, GW types giving the additional SR position irons. The colour and sheen variation is also worth noting. Thanks Ozzy.
Adam
Adam
Cracking photo that OzzyO. Great find.
As Adam says the colur and sheen is worth noting as the last driver has vertually non evedent until you enlarge the pic and even then it is very slight around the centre hub area. The rod looks amazing and if you where to weather a model like that people who dispute that you could have such a change over a short distance.
now just to find a 9F model.......
cheers
Simon
As Adam says the colur and sheen is worth noting as the last driver has vertually non evedent until you enlarge the pic and even then it is very slight around the centre hub area. The rod looks amazing and if you where to weather a model like that people who dispute that you could have such a change over a short distance.
now just to find a 9F model.......
cheers
Simon
