7mm The Derby Line - DJH/Piercy B1

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by dibateg, 29 October 2011.

  1. Dave Holt

    Dave Holt Western Thunderer

    I think you are mistaken. There is no bottom connection to either atomiser - they are the rectangular blocks, each with a steam feed into the top and oil feed and atomised oil outlets on the front and back. The steam supply to both is from the angle valve on the RHS of the smokebox (with the locked hand-wheel) and is taken down to a splitter/valve between the frames. The valve is operated by the cylinder drain cock linkage so that there is no steam supply to the atomisers when the drain cocks are open. From the valve, a steam supply is taken to each side of the loco, emerging just behind the saddle, and connected to the top of the atomiser blocks. As I said, the drivers side has a bulkhead mounted tee to supply heating steam to the forward of the two mechanical lubricators, as shown in this photo.
    I've had quite a bit of personal experience assembling and disassembling these types of atomisers on our loco as we've had problems with the steam back feeding condensate to the lubricator, despite three non-return valves in the system. A right pain.
    Not that any of this matters on our models as it's all just cosmetic.
    Last edited: 4 March 2021
  2. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    Splitter union.


    Cylinder drain cock valve.

  3. OzzyO

    OzzyO Western Thunderer

    Live and learn.
  4. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    More odd jobs on the B1, the cast running plate step by the cab was too chunky, so I filed a couple up from brass 'I' section, nor did I like the mudhole covers and used Finney7 etched ones instead of the cast ones in the kit. I'm still determining how to attach the boiler to the cab...
  5. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    Perhaps it was a mistake to choose a loco with AWS and electric lighting... Each of those clips for the conduit had to have a 0.5mm hole drilled to take a pin. The clips are made from phosphor bronze strip. I don't find the white metal - or is it pewter? easy to solder to but it does drill easier than the softer stuff. A bit of spit lubricant helps.. I'm resorting to Loctite 480 for a lot of the fixing. After careful checking I ended up soldering the boiler to the cab front from the inside.
  6. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    I should have taken my own advice and split up the tender development. In the event, I only took the back off. So the result was that even scribing the half etch, I didn't get a sharp bottom edge. Nor would the tender body sit cleanly down on the floor, you could drive a bus through the gap..... It was designed for the body to come off, but that was just not going to work. I considered cutting the bottom out of the body, but after reflecting on that for a bit, wound the soldering iron up to full power and soldered along the bottom edge of each side. It needs another pass I think, but at least I'll get a tidy bottom edge to the tender side. The axleboxes and springs are cast in a good quality material and have useful pegs that project through the frames. I was able to solder those in place with 145 and the iron set at 350. A one way ticket and no room for mistakes....
  7. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    I finally found the right place for the relocated division plate, after getting it wrong first time and having to torch it out. Yeadons came up with the 1'10" further forward position. There is a slot in the deck for the original plate, but I've seen photos of the weld marks where the old plate was cut out, so I've filled it with 0.5mm brass wire. Beading was made up from NuGold 0.81mm half round soft brass wire. I'm putting off the electric conduit and lamps on the back until last, it shouldn't take too long once I get the enthusiasm for it.

    Lifting links are Ragstone
  8. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    It took ages to get myself going to do the lighting conduit, which is unusual as I usually like doing pipework. I think it was the white metal lamps - they could not be soldered. There are also various arrangements of the conduit and I spent ages trawling through photos. I could have done a loco without the electric lamps, but that's too easy! Buffers stocks are Ragstone N/S instead of the albeit nicely cast white metal ones in the kit. Inner subframe under way in the background. Anyway, bar some tidying, I think thats the tender body done.
  9. Podartist79

    Podartist79 Active Member

    It’s looking another wonderful job Tony!
    Look forward to further instalments.
    Neil P.
  10. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    Thanks Neil -
    Those stretchers between the tender outer frames are always a challenge, as they cannot be fixed permanently, so that the inner frames can be detached. In the past I used the Lambert/Roffe method, where they are mounted on a wire frame on the inner frames. On more recent builds I have used brass angle soldered on the inside of the frames, tapped for 14BA screws, its a little fiddly but it works. In this case, they are countersunk. The scoop is soldered to plate, which has two 10BA screws that pass through it to nuts inside the belly tank. That allows the scoop come off and give access to the body fixing screw underneath.

  11. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    I'm now back on the loco frames and as an exercise, I wanted to see if I could fabricate up a brass replacement for the white metal brake clevis. So this was filed up from square brass stock.

    I cut the hornguides off the spring and hanger castings. The white metal is good quality and I was able to solder them to the frames with 145 solder with the iron on 350. Some of the smaller components were done too, but you have to make sure the iron doesn't touch the smaller castings! Smaller assemblies are done with the iron at 250.

    I used a Ragstone exhaust steam injector - it's not quite right, but its more robust and tucked away there, not much of it can be seen. The brake crank is held in place by grub screws ( or will be ) , so that it can be removed to give access to the draw bar screw. The insides of the brake shoes were chamfered off - its not a claggy material when it's filed.

    Dreaded sandpipes next...
  12. Deano747

    Deano747 Western Thunderer

    Hi Tony,
    Very neat work.
    For the smaller white metal components, Iron 250deg, do you use 145 or 100deg solder?

    Regards, Rob.
  13. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    Hi Rob - 145, it seems to flow better than the 100 that I have...

    richard carr and Deano747 like this.
  14. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    I go with 145° as well.
    Deano747 likes this.
  15. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I'd agree with Tony, just use a lower temp iron and be quick.

    Deano747 likes this.
  16. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    For strength, I attached the front steps to the buffer beam. Sharp eyed viewers will have noticed that the AWS bang plate is off centre - which it should be. It's a little simplified as it should be a frame which mounts to the buffer beam with some angle to mount the plate. The leading brake stretcher is not long enough, I shall have to out some false ends on.. Still needs to be cleaned up of course.

    Brakes and sand pipes are on with the modified DJH springs. I manged to drill the ends of the sanding pipe ends to create a strong join, a butt join would probably last about 3 minutes. I added some brass channel to limit the movement of the axle boxes, even my track doesn't need 5mm of travel!
    BR Tony, JimG, David B and 10 others like this.
  17. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    61264 looks better now it's on it's wheels, and now its the task of adding all those little extra details that take forever at the end. I worked out how to add those prominent vac and heat pipes that are under the running plate and run through those holes in the outriggers. I shall leave the speedo bracket until after painting as it is very exposed hanging under the cab.

    It's not screwed together and the chimney is loose, I leave that until last until the loco is stood on it's wheels. I couldn't think of any secure way of adding those middle lamps, other than soldering them, which I did.

    The cab roof will be glued on after painting..
  18. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    Looking the business now, I'd never noticed the blow down tap at the firebox base before, checking the pipe and rod I can clearly see it now :rolleyes: another casting to add to mine and adjust the etches.

    61264 does not have one mounted here, it's sat between the frames and has a small actuating lever that pokes through the RH side running plate. I'll check references as it looks like there maybe variants in valve positions and types.
    Last edited: 15 April 2021 at 09:12
    Rob Pulham likes this.
  19. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    Morning Mick -
    yes there are quite a lot of detail on the preserved 61264 that differ from BR days - shape of the injector pipes, no drain valve or drop grate lever. I've cheated with the rear sand pipe support, it should be an section of angle visible to the rear of the wheel, but that was going to be too fragile.

    mickoo, Len Cattley, BR Tony and 7 others like this.
  20. Kyoki

    Kyoki Member

    Fantastic work. Your soldering is very neat!