The Heybridge Railway, 1889 to 1913
- Thread starter Richard Gawler
- Start date
Overseer
Western Thunderer
Or don't insulate the r/c loco. A dead short will keep everything else stationary very effectively.
simond
Western Thunderer
it would, but I suspect that would not be helpful for Richard or the layouts on which he normally runs his locos!
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
No I don't want my loco to put a short circuit on my friends' railways nor on my own layout, I want r/c for my GER operations and analogue power through the track for my branch loco.
In this particular case the conflicting movement was powered by live steam so the operator had two locos on the track both without their familiar DC or DCC control and all the short circuits in the world would do no good. I think the solution is some kind of protocol for the track operator; I offered them my r/c handset when I arrived and they dismissed it out of hand, no interest. For example, designate a person to accept locos from the public and return them afterwards; and let them give the instructions to the operator(s).
. . details before painting
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Axleboxes and springs.
I visited Ragstone Models at Kettering and bought a set of of their springs and axleboxes for the tender. One of the springs was missing its middle spigot so I made one on the lathe.
The springs need to go on after the lining. I can't fix the axleboxes yet either because these need to be attached to the springs before going on. So this photo simply shows how the new parts will fit. I will probably end up omitting the two upper front steps, there just isn't enough room for them.
I visited Ragstone Models at Kettering and bought a set of of their springs and axleboxes for the tender. One of the springs was missing its middle spigot so I made one on the lathe.
The springs need to go on after the lining. I can't fix the axleboxes yet either because these need to be attached to the springs before going on. So this photo simply shows how the new parts will fit. I will probably end up omitting the two upper front steps, there just isn't enough room for them.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Brake standard and filling unused slots.
The lathe is encouraging me to rework things, it mades tapping a piece of brass tube really easy to do square. This is a piece of 3/32 inch OD tube and the idea was to solder it into the 2.4 mm hole in the casting but it has gone in with a very robust interference fit.
The handle I mentioned in post #527 fell off during the force fitting so I re-worked this with a short handrail knob. The purists won't like the tapered base but only the camera can see it.
There is a 10BA screw underneath holding the standard into place so it can come off for painting. I struggle with thinking in 3D sometimes and it was with some concentration that the actuating mechanism ended up under the column.
The footplate had lots of empty slots where the bodywork would have been fixed if I had assembled the model as the designer intended. Most of these would have ended up hidden by the body but I filled them all in for completeness. I used 0.7 mm wire for this, soldered in and then filed flat, thanks to Col. @Eastsidepilot for this tip.
The lathe is encouraging me to rework things, it mades tapping a piece of brass tube really easy to do square. This is a piece of 3/32 inch OD tube and the idea was to solder it into the 2.4 mm hole in the casting but it has gone in with a very robust interference fit.
The handle I mentioned in post #527 fell off during the force fitting so I re-worked this with a short handrail knob. The purists won't like the tapered base but only the camera can see it.
There is a 10BA screw underneath holding the standard into place so it can come off for painting. I struggle with thinking in 3D sometimes and it was with some concentration that the actuating mechanism ended up under the column.
The footplate had lots of empty slots where the bodywork would have been fixed if I had assembled the model as the designer intended. Most of these would have ended up hidden by the body but I filled them all in for completeness. I used 0.7 mm wire for this, soldered in and then filed flat, thanks to Col. @Eastsidepilot for this tip.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I am amusing myself with a kit for a stationary boiler while I await some detail parts for the Y14.
I have built this as three subassemblies, the firebox and two sections of boiler. Each subassembly held together with 145 degree solder and, in the case of the firebox, some air. This is the sort of kit I might imagine suggesting to a beginner wanting to try their first whitemetal kit, but not this one.
Assembly with 145 degree solder is quick (you have to be quick) and strong but you cannot undo mistakes except with maybe a hacksaw. On the bright side, the middle sections made an ellipse about 28 x 25 mm but the solder is so strong I put this into the vice and squeezed it to make it round.
I have put the three subassemblies together with epoxy resin. The next step will be to mix up some Milliput to connect the different surfaces together. The stud and rivet detail on this model looks really good.
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I have had a bit of a culture shock going from brass to whitemetal - assembly of the boiler has been spread over four days of sessions with solder, glue, filler and more glue. The sides of the firebox are the perfect shape to fit the backhead but they stop most of 3 mm apart.
I put the model above my eye level for the glue to cure . . . the fitting on the top of the firebox ended up twisted so I filed off the nut and stud detail, I would rather have no detail than wrong detail. I will try to remember to blend this into the firebox the next time I mix up some Milliput.
The steam outlet could go onto either ring of the boiler, I chose the forward one to try for a slightly more Victorian look.
I suspect this model will look a whole lot better with a coat of paint to bring the various surfaces together. This could be months away so I have plenty of time to find out whether the Lomac is a suitable wagon to carry it and how the chains should go.
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Final test runs.
The Y14 had an outing to NEEGOG on Saturday where it derailed once for no obvious cause (though I did see a sleeved arm very close to it . . .) and then carried on running for a dozen+ laps. I think this photo shows how compact the loco is.
Someone told me "I must have time on my hands to build this", and someone else told me all about why battery power is "impractical" and "cannot work". Then I went to a cafe for breakfast this morning, saw a severely disabled customer and a blind customer, and remembered how lucky I am.
The Y14 had an outing to NEEGOG on Saturday where it derailed once for no obvious cause (though I did see a sleeved arm very close to it . . .) and then carried on running for a dozen+ laps. I think this photo shows how compact the loco is.
Someone told me "I must have time on my hands to build this", and someone else told me all about why battery power is "impractical" and "cannot work". Then I went to a cafe for breakfast this morning, saw a severely disabled customer and a blind customer, and remembered how lucky I am.
Herb Garden
Western Thunderer
Its amazing what you get told at shows by 'informed' members of the public.....
I was demoing at my local AG show a few months back and I gentleman sat down at my table and complained bitterly that I a 'youngster' (does 32 count as young?) Was 'not allowed to model pre grouping railways as it was not my era' accordingly I had to stick to modern image as 'that is where I belonged!'
I had to excuse myself and go into the other room for fear of cracking up in fits of laughter!
Chas Levin
Western Thunderer
Love the story (which doesn't surprise me actually, as I've heard similar) but for the record yes, I'd say 32 counts as young.
I'm 56, and as far as I'm concerned I'm young, so you definitely must be!!
Allen M
Western Thunderer
I find this 'modern image' quite funny. At The GOG Guildex Stafford last September I was talking to the man on the Modern Image stand and made the comment 'I nearly brought my WCPR tractor, then remembered it was built about 1922 not 2022'
His comment was to the effect 'some of these have been about over 60 years and are older than many people in here'.
Regards
Allen
Ps I am just short of 82 so most people are young
His comment was to the effect 'some of these have been about over 60 years and are older than many people in here'.
Regards
Allen
Ps I am just short of 82 so most people are young
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
I suppose "my era" is early 1970s British Rail, a subject where all I can remember is abandoned steam infrastructure and industrial unrest. Not wanting to model this.
Allen's comment is encouraging. I am happy for this to run and run, but I will make two observations to try to help:
1) These are, in the main, people for whom "finescale" and "two-rail" are pretty radical concepts. Talk about 0-MF let alone Scale 7 and you will at best see eyes glaze over, but more likely set of an explosive charge created through decades of practiced ignorance; and
2) You will NEVER win an argument with a ninety year old. Not ever. I'm into my seventh decade now, I am probably a slow learner here but if you are a mere 32 (oh I wish) you can save decades of wasted trying
Allen's comment is encouraging. I am happy for this to run and run, but I will make two observations to try to help:
1) These are, in the main, people for whom "finescale" and "two-rail" are pretty radical concepts. Talk about 0-MF let alone Scale 7 and you will at best see eyes glaze over, but more likely set of an explosive charge created through decades of practiced ignorance; and
2) You will NEVER win an argument with a ninety year old. Not ever. I'm into my seventh decade now, I am probably a slow learner here but if you are a mere 32 (oh I wish) you can save decades of wasted trying
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Oh, how I wish I knew then what I know now.I am probably a slow learner here but if you are a mere 32 (oh I wish) you can save decades of wasted trying
Oh no, perhaps I shouldn't roll on the floor laughing, 'cause I won't get up. Please settle for 
Brian
Herb Garden
Western Thunderer
Yeah my era is late 90s privatisation...... Might be someone's cup of tea but not mine so I model 100 years earlier.....I suppose "my era" is early 1970s British Rail, a subject where all I can remember is abandoned steam infrastructure and industrial unrest. Not wanting to model this.
Allen's comment is encouraging. I am happy for this to run and run, but I will make two observations to try to help:
1) These are, in the main, people for whom "finescale" and "two-rail" are pretty radical concepts. Talk about 0-MF let alone Scale 7 and you will at best see eyes glaze over, but more likely set of an explosive charge created through decades of practiced ignorance; and
2) You will NEVER win an argument with a ninety year old. Not ever. I'm into my seventh decade now, I am probably a slow learner here but if you are a mere 32 (oh I wish) you can save decades of wasted trying
I also think you can never win an argument with a headstrong student either..... I remember when I joined my first model railway club at 19 I was such an arrogant little toerag, I thought I knew it all and was very verbal with my opinions... A decade later I've realised that most of what I came out with them was utter claptrap... And I'm very glad of the kind friends who patiently waited for me to grow up and learn to listen.....
Oh and I know I'm not old yet (and never will be mentally) but I know have people who work for me who were born this century!!!!!
Sorry Richard for derailing your thread.... Back to Y14s?
Herbie
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Herbie I could not ask for a more useful photo of the cab interior. I expected to find 564 at Weybourne shed last August but she was in steam with a busy crew and this shot wasn't possible. I am treating the cab interior as a separate model to do after the rest of the model is built and painted and if you have other footplate shots you could append them to the Gallery topic, this had been more popular than I expected:
Prototype - Ex-GER Y14 (LNER J15) preserved at the North Norfolk Railway
Back to the build, yesterday's efforts are getting down into the noise floor but they have to be done. I have stripped out all of the electrics and dealt with most of the missing details on the tender . . .
- -
Rear handrails.
The original rear handrails (last October) broke off a couple of times so I have tried for a stronger fixing. This is microbore brass tube by Albion Alloys, 1.1 mm OD and 0.9mm ID fixed into the body with 188 degree solder paint.
Then trimmed flush to make a socket.
The handrail wire is 0.7 mm diameter so there is room for the glue to hold them into their sockets after painting.
Prototype - Ex-GER Y14 (LNER J15) preserved at the North Norfolk Railway
Back to the build, yesterday's efforts are getting down into the noise floor but they have to be done. I have stripped out all of the electrics and dealt with most of the missing details on the tender . . .
- -
Rear handrails.
The original rear handrails (last October) broke off a couple of times so I have tried for a stronger fixing. This is microbore brass tube by Albion Alloys, 1.1 mm OD and 0.9mm ID fixed into the body with 188 degree solder paint.
Then trimmed flush to make a socket.
The handrail wire is 0.7 mm diameter so there is room for the glue to hold them into their sockets after painting.
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Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
Water filler and tool box.
The water filler is an aftermarket one, from Ragstone Models at Kettering. The casting is a bit sharper than the one supplied in the kit. I must get into the habit of looking out for these bits and pieces at shows, it is far easier than trying to decipher a web site or catalogue listing without illustrations.
The toolbox is from the kit. I put in the brass tube as a peg to connect it onto the model.
There is some fret to provide the gap above the top of the tender. The fret was supposed to be invisible and it will have to disappear behind some paint or coal.
For some reason, the top of my tender is a fraction narrower on one side of the coal space than the other (perhaps the cast flares are slightly asymetrical) and adding a second toolbox opposite the first one rather exagerates this difference. The written historical accounts suggest the GER fitted two toolboxes, one each side, but I have found very few photos from the 1890s so I will settle for one. I can put the fire irons on the opposite side, in the space where the LNER added a tool compartment.
I forgot to mention, I did the soldering for the handrail sockets using the micro flame torch while holding a razor saw to shield the flare castings. It's a bit troubling to hold a 1,200 degree flame a few milimetres away from a low melt casting. I got away with it, but I settled for glue for the water filler and the toolbox
The water filler is an aftermarket one, from Ragstone Models at Kettering. The casting is a bit sharper than the one supplied in the kit. I must get into the habit of looking out for these bits and pieces at shows, it is far easier than trying to decipher a web site or catalogue listing without illustrations.
The toolbox is from the kit. I put in the brass tube as a peg to connect it onto the model.
There is some fret to provide the gap above the top of the tender. The fret was supposed to be invisible and it will have to disappear behind some paint or coal.
For some reason, the top of my tender is a fraction narrower on one side of the coal space than the other (perhaps the cast flares are slightly asymetrical) and adding a second toolbox opposite the first one rather exagerates this difference. The written historical accounts suggest the GER fitted two toolboxes, one each side, but I have found very few photos from the 1890s so I will settle for one. I can put the fire irons on the opposite side, in the space where the LNER added a tool compartment.
I forgot to mention, I did the soldering for the handrail sockets using the micro flame torch while holding a razor saw to shield the flare castings. It's a bit troubling to hold a 1,200 degree flame a few milimetres away from a low melt casting. I got away with it, but I settled for glue for the water filler and the toolbox
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Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Good solution Richard. I do similar as most of my locos have bright metal handrails. I try to solder the tube from the inside before fitting the top. I have been using 1/0.5 tube and open the bore out once soldered in. A lot of handrails had a boss which butts up against the plate with a nut and washer on the other side. If the tube is left slightly proud it represents that boss.
Ian.