adrian
Flying Squad
I'm interested, even if no one else is. I've been considering a purchase but quoted capacities don't seem to match the tank(cage) sizes - presumably the maximum fill line is some way below the top of the tank.
UltraSonic Cleaners & grit blasters.
- Thread starter adrian
- Start date
I'm interested, even if no one else is. I've been considering a purchase but quoted capacities don't seem to match the tank(cage) sizes - presumably the maximum fill line is some way below the top of the tank.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Adrian
I have an ultrasound cleaner, and will provide you before and after pictures when the Fowler Tank comes to have its bath.
It's a recent acquisition - a medical grade piece of equipment that I was given by a client - so I haven't used it yet, and am thus unable to comment on its effectiveness.
Richard
I have an ultrasound cleaner, and will provide you before and after pictures when the Fowler Tank comes to have its bath.
It's a recent acquisition - a medical grade piece of equipment that I was given by a client - so I haven't used it yet, and am thus unable to comment on its effectiveness.
Richard
Dave Bowden
Western Thunderer
Adrian, have a look at this link. This is the same as mine and it gives the internal dimensions. It is a JPL product but doesn't say so. I paid £75 for mine and that was on offer so £69. 95 with free postage is a bargain. And I've just noticed it comes with 2 yrs warranty. JPL stands for James Products Limited by the way.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professio...Beauty_Tattoos_BodyArt_SM&hash=item3cb5761bb8
Dave
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professio...Beauty_Tattoos_BodyArt_SM&hash=item3cb5761bb8
Dave
Last edited:
Dave Bowden
Western Thunderer
Adrian
I've just checked my tank and the max level is 10mm from the top. The working depth from tank bottom to the max mark is 60mm. The working length is 240mm, hope this is of some use to you!
Dave
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Hello all,
I've used ultrasonic cleaners for a number of years now along with a grit-blaster, so how do you take a photo to show a loco is clean? If it shines is it clean? If it looks dull (after grit-blasting) is it clean? After U/S cleaning and it has stains on it is it clean?
U/S cleaning is use for medical equipment so I would think that it does it's job in removing grot. I think the best way of showing what it can do is shown in this photo of some cleaning fluid, the new stuff is on the left,
This photo shows my "new" cleaner at the back and my old one at the front,
These are the specs. for the new one,
I can't remember what price I paid for it now but a very similar one is in one of the links a few posts back at £300 IIRC I did not pay that much maybe £200 or so. It may sound a lot of money but you only buy good tools once, and this is a good tool.
The only down side to them is that they do take up a bit of space in the workshop, so I tend to only set it up when I'm going to do any cleaning of parts (and the wife is out as I do it in the kitchen).
Do I think that they are any good? I bought a second one! As the first was not big enough.
The down side to them, is that most of them are not the size and shape that we want them (at the price we want them). To get one that would take an O gauge coach in one go you would have to look at about £600 or more. But all you have to do to make sure that the kit is clean is put it in the tank a few times, on its side then upside down (do you get me).
Will bits fall off?
YES, if you have not soldered them on correctly. The same goes for glued on parts, if you have used super glue the heat and the time that you use in the U/S cleaner can and will affect the joint. Epoxy less so.
But all of the bits end up in the bottom of the tank, so you do get them back.
HTH
OzzyO.
I've used ultrasonic cleaners for a number of years now along with a grit-blaster, so how do you take a photo to show a loco is clean? If it shines is it clean? If it looks dull (after grit-blasting) is it clean? After U/S cleaning and it has stains on it is it clean?
U/S cleaning is use for medical equipment so I would think that it does it's job in removing grot. I think the best way of showing what it can do is shown in this photo of some cleaning fluid, the new stuff is on the left,
This photo shows my "new" cleaner at the back and my old one at the front,
These are the specs. for the new one,
I can't remember what price I paid for it now but a very similar one is in one of the links a few posts back at £300 IIRC I did not pay that much maybe £200 or so. It may sound a lot of money but you only buy good tools once, and this is a good tool.
The only down side to them is that they do take up a bit of space in the workshop, so I tend to only set it up when I'm going to do any cleaning of parts (and the wife is out as I do it in the kitchen).
Do I think that they are any good? I bought a second one! As the first was not big enough.
The down side to them, is that most of them are not the size and shape that we want them (at the price we want them). To get one that would take an O gauge coach in one go you would have to look at about £600 or more. But all you have to do to make sure that the kit is clean is put it in the tank a few times, on its side then upside down (do you get me).
Will bits fall off?
YES, if you have not soldered them on correctly. The same goes for glued on parts, if you have used super glue the heat and the time that you use in the U/S cleaner can and will affect the joint. Epoxy less so.
But all of the bits end up in the bottom of the tank, so you do get them back.
HTH
OzzyO.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Hello all,
I forgot to mention when I'm using the U/S cleaner I warm the fluid up before using it. For this I use an old stock pot with a jam thermometer in it. This is why you don't use the wife's best pans for this,
If the job has no glued parts I will tend to run the U/S cleaner at about 60 Deg. for about 1 min. per cycle. If it has glued part in it's construction I'll run it at about 40 -45 Deg. for about 30 Seconds per cycle.
I had a job to do a while back that involved stripping the paint off a kit so the first thing that I did was to drop the frames in a bath of cellulose (is that the correct spelling?) thinners, this is what they looked like after this,
I was not that happy with this so I decided to try caustic soda in the U/S cleaner (if your going to do this PLEASE be very careful and use eye protection), the result looked like this,
and the caustic soda looked like this!
But after a quick grit blast the frames looked like this,
The body is another story,
OzzyO.
EDIT for PS,
DON'T USE ANY TYPE OF FLAMMABLE LIQUID IN THE U/S CLEANER, AS IT CAN GO BANG AND REMOVE A LARGE PART OF YOU AND YOUR HOUSE. This is due to a number of reasons the U/S action will release more gas out of the liquid and also the build up of heat. If in doubt don't do it.
I forgot to mention when I'm using the U/S cleaner I warm the fluid up before using it. For this I use an old stock pot with a jam thermometer in it. This is why you don't use the wife's best pans for this,
If the job has no glued parts I will tend to run the U/S cleaner at about 60 Deg. for about 1 min. per cycle. If it has glued part in it's construction I'll run it at about 40 -45 Deg. for about 30 Seconds per cycle.
I had a job to do a while back that involved stripping the paint off a kit so the first thing that I did was to drop the frames in a bath of cellulose (is that the correct spelling?) thinners, this is what they looked like after this,
I was not that happy with this so I decided to try caustic soda in the U/S cleaner (if your going to do this PLEASE be very careful and use eye protection), the result looked like this,
and the caustic soda looked like this!
But after a quick grit blast the frames looked like this,
The body is another story,
OzzyO.
EDIT for PS,
DON'T USE ANY TYPE OF FLAMMABLE LIQUID IN THE U/S CLEANER, AS IT CAN GO BANG AND REMOVE A LARGE PART OF YOU AND YOUR HOUSE. This is due to a number of reasons the U/S action will release more gas out of the liquid and also the build up of heat. If in doubt don't do it.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Hello all,
this is the grit blaster that I use, it was bought from machine Mart, the cost at the moment is approx £150 including VAT,
The sizes in the catalogue are as follows, L580mm, W480mm, H490mm, to try and give you an idea the drawing that you can see part of is A3 in the vertical format. This is a view of the inside, the rule is 12" I also use a cheep splatter guard to stop dropping small bits in to the grit,
A close up of the gun, you have a chose of four sizes of nozzles with this one, 4, 5, 6, and 7mm up to now I've only used the 4mm one,
I've worn one out but it was still doing it's job,
One thing that grit blasters don't like is moisture so you do want one of these as close to the blaster as poss. approx price £8.50,
For connecting it to the compressor I use this type of connector,
One thing that you will need is a compressor that will produce approx 10 cubic foot of air per min.. The one that I'm using came from Aldi for appox. £80. 1/3H.P. with a 25 Litre tank.
For the grit I use aluminium oxide (180? grit) [Ebay is your friend] mixed with a small amount of 80 grit. The only reason that I mixed in the 80 grit is that the 180 is very fine and wares adding the 80 grit just adds a bit more more "cut" (about 15-20 ;1).
The air pressure that I tend to use is about 50PSI.
It is a photo of a tender that has just been built and grit blasted, some of the castings are white metal and it cleans them up very well, but don't dwell on them for too long as it may remove all of the detail,
HTH
OzzyO.
this is the grit blaster that I use, it was bought from machine Mart, the cost at the moment is approx £150 including VAT,
The sizes in the catalogue are as follows, L580mm, W480mm, H490mm, to try and give you an idea the drawing that you can see part of is A3 in the vertical format. This is a view of the inside, the rule is 12" I also use a cheep splatter guard to stop dropping small bits in to the grit,
A close up of the gun, you have a chose of four sizes of nozzles with this one, 4, 5, 6, and 7mm up to now I've only used the 4mm one,
I've worn one out but it was still doing it's job,
One thing that grit blasters don't like is moisture so you do want one of these as close to the blaster as poss. approx price £8.50,
For connecting it to the compressor I use this type of connector,
One thing that you will need is a compressor that will produce approx 10 cubic foot of air per min.. The one that I'm using came from Aldi for appox. £80. 1/3H.P. with a 25 Litre tank.
For the grit I use aluminium oxide (180? grit) [Ebay is your friend] mixed with a small amount of 80 grit. The only reason that I mixed in the 80 grit is that the 180 is very fine and wares adding the 80 grit just adds a bit more more "cut" (about 15-20 ;1).
The air pressure that I tend to use is about 50PSI.
It is a photo of a tender that has just been built and grit blasted, some of the castings are white metal and it cleans them up very well, but don't dwell on them for too long as it may remove all of the detail,
HTH
OzzyO.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Thanks for that, Ozzy - having been looking for a while and following leads from the various discussions, I've just 'put my foot in the water' quite literally and ordered a CD-4860
Sorry to jump back up the thread, but where from? I think I need one of these in my life, fed up with toothbrushes, Viakal and fairly liquid LOL, you just never get in the little nooks and crannies...that muck seems to love.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
The bay of E can be your friend. Try this one as a starting point.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6L-6-LITR...?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item27e32ebb8b
It looks a bit like the one I have, but the price looks to have gone up a bit.
OzzyO.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Awsome
I did try the bay of E last night and came up blank, though I did find Dave's one which is significantly cheaper, but probably not 'significantly' worse in quality and probably perfectly good for occasional and casual use, I.E those who make one or two kits a year
It does look a lot like yours, but I wonder if they are standard stock that is re-badged by different vendors and thus different prices?
Either way, I now have two to choose from and either end of the range for hobbyists, much obliged
Osgood
Western Thunderer
I sourced it from http://www.presidental.co.uk/cd4860-ultrasonic-bath#.U9S8u1x1IlI
Add VAT and delivery and it comes out at around £280. Excellent service.
If you read carefully through Ozzy's posts you may decide there are some good reasons why he went with this model - not least a drain tap
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
One thing to look at with on line sellers is how they word things, both of the U/S cleaners may look about the same, until you start to look at some of the spec. One states two 70W transducers (=140W) and two 80W heaters (=160W) The other one says ultrasonic power 70W. With no mention of the heater (so should we assume one at 80W?).
Max. power on one 310W, on the other one 160W.
So in one way you get what (sorry) you pay for, in this case more power.
Both of them look like the one that I bought, but the specs. for one of them looks a bit out, If in doubt contact the seller before buying off them. Then ask to see a copy of the specification sheet.
Hello David,
one problem is what colour is LMS grey? The sort of grey colour that I'm thinking about is about Halford's grey primer. That will cover the black and leave you with a nice base colour to start adding the red to.
OzzyO.
PS. the specs for what I have, so you can have a look at what is on sale, They maybe both the same thing under a different name and model No. BUT????
Max. power on one 310W, on the other one 160W.
So in one way you get what (sorry) you pay for, in this case more power.
Both of them look like the one that I bought, but the specs. for one of them looks a bit out, If in doubt contact the seller before buying off them. Then ask to see a copy of the specification sheet.
Hello David,
one problem is what colour is LMS grey? The sort of grey colour that I'm thinking about is about Halford's grey primer. That will cover the black and leave you with a nice base colour to start adding the red to.
OzzyO.
PS. the specs for what I have, so you can have a look at what is on sale, They maybe both the same thing under a different name and model No. BUT????
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Interesting - for the unit I bought,the power rating at 220-1240VAC 50Hz is the same (therefore similar spec), but they appear to have revised the performance downward by around 10% under operation at 100VAC both 60 and 50Hz…..
Anyway - mine came in a bigger cardboard box than yours, so there!
Anyway - mine came in a bigger cardboard box than yours, so there!
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
I want more bits of packing. But I did pay less, is that why???????????????????
I would like to know what IS the difference between the two models, apart from approx £11 and one having the name James and Ultra 9000 on the front screen.
All jokes aside, I do hope that you find you M/C as good as mine, if you want to have a gab about using it drop me you land line No. in a PM and I'll phone you back.
All I can say is that I've been using these things for number of years and they seem to do there job, as I mentioned before if you put a clean kid in the bath you know that it's cleaner when it comes out than when it went in.
But please don't expect it to come out of the U/S cleaner looking all shiny it won't, it may come out looking all funny colours but it will be clean. A bit like if you leave the kid in the bath too long it comes out all wrinkly (you know what I mean).
If you want to just have a go with it, and see what it does get something like a wrist band from a watch or a gold chain (don't put opals or soft stones in) diamonds and such are OK, and pop it in for about 2min. (don't put the watch in unless it's got a very good water proof depth on it, the one I wear is up to 100M and I wont put it in the U/Sc.).
Then look at all of the muck (I nearly said s41t) at the bottom of the tank.
Then try something out of the workshop that won't go rusty and give that it a go. The reason that I say won't go rusty is because if you have a degreaser in the fluid it will strip all of the oil /grease off the metal when it's in the U/Sc and by the time it has dried it can have a small amount of rust on it.
The next thing that you should get is a BIG pan so that you can warm up the cleaning fluid along with a thermometer that you can use only for this purpose.
Have you got any cleaning fluid to use in the M/C. Yet?
OzzyO.
I would like to know what IS the difference between the two models, apart from approx £11 and one having the name James and Ultra 9000 on the front screen.
All jokes aside, I do hope that you find you M/C as good as mine, if you want to have a gab about using it drop me you land line No. in a PM and I'll phone you back.
All I can say is that I've been using these things for number of years and they seem to do there job, as I mentioned before if you put a clean kid in the bath you know that it's cleaner when it comes out than when it went in.
But please don't expect it to come out of the U/S cleaner looking all shiny it won't, it may come out looking all funny colours but it will be clean. A bit like if you leave the kid in the bath too long it comes out all wrinkly (you know what I mean).
If you want to just have a go with it, and see what it does get something like a wrist band from a watch or a gold chain (don't put opals or soft stones in) diamonds and such are OK, and pop it in for about 2min. (don't put the watch in unless it's got a very good water proof depth on it, the one I wear is up to 100M and I wont put it in the U/Sc.).
Then look at all of the muck (I nearly said s41t) at the bottom of the tank.
Then try something out of the workshop that won't go rusty and give that it a go. The reason that I say won't go rusty is because if you have a degreaser in the fluid it will strip all of the oil /grease off the metal when it's in the U/Sc and by the time it has dried it can have a small amount of rust on it.
The next thing that you should get is a BIG pan so that you can warm up the cleaning fluid along with a thermometer that you can use only for this purpose.
Have you got any cleaning fluid to use in the M/C. Yet?
OzzyO.
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Not yet. I had to go and unpack the machine to get the booklet out 
. I'm not sure I even made a note of your recommendation for fluids in the posts I read here and elsewhere.
It will be a little while yet (I reckon maybe even November) before I get the workshop set up but I'll certainly get in touch for some advice, thanks for the offer.
Tony
. I'm not sure I even made a note of your recommendation for fluids in the posts I read here and elsewhere.It will be a little while yet (I reckon maybe even November) before I get the workshop set up but I'll certainly get in touch for some advice, thanks for the offer.
Tony
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Thanks Adrian and the Flying Squad
I've looked at both and am still undecided LOL, the more expensive would be nice, but it's almost a whole kit price extra and for the limited amount I'll use one then the cheaper one that Dave has might be all I need and the shot blaster looks like a nice addition to the workshop as well, again the choice is more tools or another kit
I've looked at both and am still undecided LOL, the more expensive would be nice, but it's almost a whole kit price extra and for the limited amount I'll use one then the cheaper one that Dave has might be all I need and the shot blaster looks like a nice addition to the workshop as well, again the choice is more tools or another kit
adrian
Flying Squad
I know what you mean, I'm in a similar dilema. There's a guy in the local cycling club who's a dentist so I'm hoping to have chat with him about sourcing secondhand equipment - I don't think he'd let me test out the machines in his surgery.
As for shot/grit blasters - that's one I'll give a miss after a couple of bad experiences with them. I dare say it may well have been down to operator error but I'm not willing to take the risk again. It was a couple of tenders I'd built which were then cleaned with a grit blaster, unfortunately the grit blaster deformed the tender sides. It was nickel-silver rather than brass and the tender sides ended up being bowed out in the middle. I think what I ended up doing was effectively shot peening one side of the metal, this stretched the metal on the outside resulting in the bowed sides. As I say perhaps I was using the wrong grit or the wrong pressure, although I started off on what I thought was the low side ( certainly lower than that quoted by Ozzyo). Anyway it's not something I'll experiment with again.
As for shot/grit blasters - that's one I'll give a miss after a couple of bad experiences with them. I dare say it may well have been down to operator error but I'm not willing to take the risk again. It was a couple of tenders I'd built which were then cleaned with a grit blaster, unfortunately the grit blaster deformed the tender sides. It was nickel-silver rather than brass and the tender sides ended up being bowed out in the middle. I think what I ended up doing was effectively shot peening one side of the metal, this stretched the metal on the outside resulting in the bowed sides. As I say perhaps I was using the wrong grit or the wrong pressure, although I started off on what I thought was the low side ( certainly lower than that quoted by Ozzyo). Anyway it's not something I'll experiment with again.