Very Little Gravitas Indeed*

[adrian]

A quick update as a little progress has been made. Again a slight deviation from the standard kit build, as supplied the kit has a single fold up etch for the brakes, so there is no float in them and they would have to mounted with a fair gap to the wheels to avoid shorting. So I have always replaced brake blocks with insulated versions, original using paxolin sheet and then subsequently using laser cut plastic.

However just taken the plunge into 3D modelling and printing, one of the first experiments I decided to 3D print the brake blocks. I've spent a little time learning FreeCAD, FreeCAD: Your own 3D parametric modeler . Chosen following recommendations on here and I liked the choice and control over the files. Being open-source I can save the files locally and isn't restricted by the licensing terms unlike some of the other software.

I had started with version 0.19 to sketch out the brake blocks, it was going okay but padding out from 2D to 3D was tricky to generate the draft to represent the casting. However I then found out the the proposed new release 0.20 had an option to specify a taper on the pad to 3D. I was using a pre-release version but this has recently been formally released.



being able to specify a taper angle made it much simpler to replicate the casting draft and a matching taper to the coning on the wheels.



One of the items missing from the kit and need to be sourced elsewhere is the vacuum cylinder so that was another item to learn a little bit about 3D modelling.



For the brakes I took the etches supplied (on the right) and cut off the etched brake block representation (centre). Then folded them up around a strip of steel so that the lower hanger was separated to fit around the 3D printed brake block (on the left).



The vacuum cylinder I wasn't sure what size it should be so I drew up 3 different sizes, what limited online information I could find it there seemed to be a few standard sizes so I plumbed for a scaled 18", 21" and 24" diameter and printed all 3 off to see which would look about right. I think the 21" seems the best fit unless anyone can tell me any different.

 

[adrian]

It's been a while again for an update. A combination of mojo loss, followed by a well earned holiday, a well appreciated and wonderful week in a cottage just outside Dunoon followed by a second bout of Covid have all conspired against modelling for a while.

Mark's effort at a Scale7 North meet have rejuvenated modelling endeavours but I failed to get many photographs of work in progress. So there are a few other items to report on in the following weeks but for now it's a build complete for the palbrick wagons. They still need a damn good clean up before wafting a coat of paint over them.

 

[AJC]

Looking good, Adrian, especially above the solebar. The extra work on the brakes is worthwhile, too.

That said, I really don't like how the axleboxes are rendered - in reality the edge on some types of plate front axlebox was inset from the centre rather than proud, per this image of the breed: BR Palbrick and rebuilds as match wagon, internal use | B462143_Palbrick_B_lot_2724__m_). You might want to take a second look at the vac' pipes, too - very few wagons had the pipe through the solebar like that and Palbricks were not among them - they had the usual swan neck fitting. Since they also look a little underscale in thickness, perhaps a second look might be in order? I really must get back to my 4mm versions...

Adam

 

[adrian]

Thanks for the feedback - I needed that. I agree with you regarding the axlebox the centre should be proud of the edge frame, it's fitted as supplied in the kit. It's a thin etch overlay on the box structure so could be replaced but I'm tempted to see how it looks with a little paint on first, maybe a little dry brushing a darker colour around the edge may give the impression of a raised centre.

Absolutely right to take me to task for the vac pipes - I was simply being lazy at the time and just following the instructions, I really shouldn't so I'm glad to be corrected. The kit are etches only no castings - hence some of the solutions with the kit, a suitable set of vac pipes have been ordered and will be fitted prior to painting.

Regards.

Adrian

 

[SimonT]

I'm not sure that there aren't two types of axlebox covers in play here. Adam's link does point to what is a domed cover, but there are others in the same album, and on plenty of other wagons, that are flat. I've seen plenty of the flat ones but this is the first of the domed ones.
Simon

 

[adrian]

Whilst waiting for the vacuum pipes for the palbrick wagons I'll start an update on the next project - a Sidelines kit for an LMS Brake Third (D1964). It ties in with various photographs of the 3F's operating around the Gloucestershire branchlines, Ashchurch Malverns etc.

Tackling the bogies first I'm using Peartree Scale7 wheels and as usual my first thought was how to spring the bogie! It does have a suggested method for rocking compensation but not a great fan and prefer sprung suspension.


So after a little thought I developed this scheme with a small T shaped jig which locates on the axle hole and top edge of the frame. With the intention of soldering on a little length of brass angle to form horn cheeks.


The jig provide a hard edge to push against when soldering the brass angle.


The step in the jig also gives a positive location for the vertical positioning.



The brass angle is then trimmed and cleaned up after soldering.



Then it was digging out the piercing saw to remove the old axle box hole.



Now folded up and axle boxes sorted. Next instalment to cover springing options.

 

[AJC]

I'm not sure that there aren't two types of axlebox covers in play here. Adam's link does point to what is a domed cover, but there are others in the same album, and on plenty of other wagons, that are flat. I've seen plenty of the flat ones but this is the first of the domed ones.
Simon

There are several - and flat seem to have been more common - but what the etch seems to be trying (and failing) to represent are the domed type.

Adam

 

[SimonT]

I totally agree about the failing bit!

 

[adrian]

Progressing with the bogies needed a little thought on how to fit and retain the spring wire. Various ideas on hooks and holes etc and after a couple of abortive ideas I settled on this arrangement.

I used some of the spare framing from the etches and bent a little strip at either end to make little pockets. The ones at the outer end form full sealed pockets whereas the inner ones were a little taller to allow the spring wire to feed in but when the right way up the wire would be held in by the central bolster.






It seems to have worked - so far! and they have a couple of mm of movement.

 

[adrian]

As I've been building this Sidelines coach I've slowly come to realise why there are so few build threads on them.

1. They are a joy to build and you get so engrossed in the build I forgot about taking photos
2. There's acres of brass and I'm desperate to get it finished quickly and primer applied before it tarnishes too much.
3. Being much bigger than a wagon it's the hassle of clearing the workbench enough to get a photo sorted.

Having sorted the suspension on the bogie I started on the body work. The first hurdle, as with most coaches is forming the tumblehome. I started with the suggestion in the instructions using a broom handle but the results were patchy and uneven and I wasn't happy with the result. So a quick trip to the local DIY store and a length of skirting board later I had the following jig. A couple of bolts to clamp the coach side.


Each end has a mounting plate soldered to the bottom to allow the body to be bolted to the chassis.



The window frames with hinges included and toplight fittings were soldered in. Then one extra modification is for the brake end ducket. It's a nice brass casting to be soldered to the brake end however if it's soldered straight on then the view into the coach is blocked so the position was marked out and a hole cut into the coach side so that there will be a view through the brake ducket into the coach.

 

[John Duffy]

I like the simplicity of this solution. Nicely done.

John

 

[LarryG]

Half etched grooves or relief lines would have made the task of forming a tumblehome much easier on 16 though brass.

 

[adrian]

Half etched grooves or relief lines would have made the task of forming a tumblehome much easier on 16 though brass.

I'm not really a great fan of half etched grooves or relief lines. Unfortunately from past experience I just end up with a stepped bend, lots of little bent straight edges. Holding the brass this way and then massaging with a rawhide mallet to smooth out any irregularities works for me. An evening college course in jewellery making and silversmithing means bashing metal with a rawhide mallet is quite therapeutic and a better finish in my opinion.

 

[Focalplane]

I have tried several techniques for forming the tumblehome and the last one seems have been slightly more successful, using a brass rod about half inch diameter. Brass against brass might be the reason, I don’t know, but it was much easier than the broomstick!

I like the springing, Adrian. Looking forward to the brake block assemblies!

 

[adrian]

I like the springing, Adrian. Looking forward to the brake block assemblies!

Cheers, I'm still trying to work something out for the brakes. Probably 3D printed to some extent so they don't short out across the wheels but they will need some pivot built in so they don't interfere with the sprung wheels. Whilst still pondering I carried on with the build of the body.

I did go together rather quickly and easily so there aren't that many in build photos. The sides and ends were soldered together to form the body and the roof trimmed to fit. I was impressed with the roof extrusion the profile fitted very nicely and needed very little fettling.


I then started with the end details, handrails, door bump stops etc.









Looking at the under frame next. In the meantime one very small but noticeable change for the Sentinel, the supplied buffers were far too small for my liking so I turned up a new set of larger buffers.

 

[ianlbsc]

Hi Adrian, could you not add something to the suspension printed parts that wraps across the wheel front and attach the brakes to them, just below the spring wire, so they also go up and down with the wheels? Cheers, Ian in Blackpool

 

[adrian]

Hi Adrian, could you not add something to the suspension printed parts that wraps across the wheel front and attach the brakes to them, just below the spring wire, so they also go up and down with the wheels? Cheers, Ian in Blackpool

That was one option to look at however I think I'm going to keep it simple. You can only see the bottom half of the brake block to wheel gap, the top half is hidden behind the bogie casting. Not keen on brass casting for brakes due to potential for shorting so I'll probably make them fixed with the bottom half curved to follow the tyre where it is visible but the top half just vertically up so the wheel can move without interference.

 

[adrian]

Failed to get many photos of the chassis build. Again went together very easily and I motored through it to avoid it tarnishing too much. The truss in the kit is an etch to fold up but looked to much hassle to get right and far simpler to replace with machined brass angle. Although I did manage to fit it initially upside down so had to do a quick remove and replace the right way up. Everything else just as supplied.







The main body has had the roof glued on and I used some 1mm Tamyia masking tape to add the strips for the panelling.









I made a concerted effort to get everything clean in preparation for painting but the recent cold snap isn't very conducive to dragging out the airbrush. I might risk it though if it doesn't warm up slightly in the next few days.

 

[Focalplane]

Adrian, that is looking very nice indeed! I am glad you opted for the machined angle strip for the trusses, well worth the extra cost in my opinion. I have used Malcolm's way of springing the buffers on most of my coaches and it is cost effective.

A suggestion for painting the roof. After priming I mask off the roof and use car bumper spray which comes in several medium to dark grey colours - anthracite and. dark grey on mine.

 

[Mike W]

That's looking beautiful. Stepping back a little to the skirting board jig - did you then form the metal by had - palm of the hand or thumbs maybe - from one end to the other?

Mike