7mm Wagons For Westerfield

[SteveO]

Minor update: all filing has now been dne on the stanchions and vents. Even with a good file it took a while to do. Will post a test-fit later tonight when the littleman is in bed. I'm looking forward to getting the soldering iron fired up. Has anyone read the soldering article in BRM? What's it like?

 

[tomstaf]

Minor update: all filing has now been dne on the stanchions and vents. Even with a good file it took a while to do. Will post a test-fit later tonight when the littleman is in bed. I'm looking forward to getting the soldering iron fired up. Has anyone read the soldering article in BRM? What's it like?

Steve,

I've not seen the article, but the biggest thing to emphasise when soldering is cleanliness and moderation. A fibre glass pencil is an absolute must for cleaning. Flux is also vital to allow the solder to flow properly. You only need very small amounts of solder, the flux and heat will do the spreading for you. Tinning the surfaces to be joined often assists too. Ensure you use the correct solder and iron, and that's it really. It's not as hard as it seems just so long as you follow the ground rules. The soldering advice here is very good.

100C solder - for white metal, and wm to brass. You can use 70C solder but it doesn't flow as well.
145C solder for brass.

Cheers

Tom

 

[SteveO]

Thanks Tom, I think I've prepared as much as I can, I just need to get on with it.

Coincidentally I bought my solder, flux and tip cleaner from Simon over at 7mm, and I've got fibreglass and brass pencils. I was thinking about some 188 solder as I have a lot of bits to put on my van bodies and I'm worried about them falling off when I solder something else close by. My theory is doing it in temperature stages may be safer?

My iron is a 65W variable temp very similar to the Maplin soldering station many of our members here have. I'll take a pic when I get up in the loft.

 

[adrian]

Steve,
I've not seen the article, but the biggest thing to emphasise when soldering is cleanliness and moderation. A fibre glass pencil is an absolute must for cleaning.
[snip]

I'd concur with most of that with the exception of the fibreglass pen - I'd rather jab a sharp stick in my eye than use a fibreglass pen - which come to think of it is exactly what happens with a fibreglass pen. The pain of using them just isn't worth it in my opinion. I manage my cleaning with a mixture of various scrapers, metal brushes (one brass, one steel) , scalpel, garryflex blocks, wet and dry.

 

[SteveO]

That's what I've heard also Adrian, which I why I backed up with a brass pen too, just in case. Here's a couple pics of the stanchions and vents thrown on in the general direction of where they are supposed to be plus all my soldering gear ready for break out.

 

[dibateg]

I'm not a fan of the fibre glass brush either, and only use occasionally over the bin, and then rinse the model afterwards. I use multiple grades of emery paper and some excellent flexible nail boards with varying grades I picked up from a model car stand at the Bristol show as well as a fleet of home made and other emery boards.

I thought the article in BRM was pretty informative......

Regards

Tony

 

[tomstaf]

I'd concur with most of that with the exception of the fibreglass pen - I'd rather jab a sharp stick in my eye than use a fibreglass pen - which come to think of it is exactly what happens with a fibreglass pen. The pain of using them just isn't worth it in my opinion. I manage my cleaning with a mixture of various scrapers, metal brushes (one brass, one steel) , scalpel, garryflex blocks, wet and dry.

I've never had any issues with a fibre glass pencil. Am I missing something?

Cheers

Tom

 

[dibateg]

We must have soft skin Tom!
I took a look at the solders on my workbench:

• 70 - Whitemetal
• 100 - Whitemetal to brass and filling
• 145 - Brass detailing and construction
• 179 - Stage soldering for bras
• 210 - I think, con and coupling rods
• 60/40 cored fine electrical - electronic and some fine detail
• 60/40 cored 16swg - freames and major body components
• solder paste - occasional rare use!

Regards

Tony

 

[Ian G]

When I prepare my brass kits i give them a once over with 400-800 grit wet and dry, before i punch out any rivet detail, the fibre glass refills i soak in a PVA/water/washing up liquid mix then put them on pins to dry, I find this the best way to keep getting spiked from the fibres, for the big fibre glass sticks I unravel the string wrap them in masking tape then soak in the PVA mix for a long time before putting out to dry, the PVA mix works wonders for me.

Ian G

 

[Ian G]

For all my main soldering I use a Weller 40 watt iron, for smaller etches I use a 25 watt Weller or an 18 watt antex, for low melt soldering i use a Maplin temp control iron, Flux i use from here http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/ind...mart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1&Itemid=52

Ian G

 

[Rob Pulham]

When I prepare my brass kits i give them a once over with 400-800 grit wet and dry, before i punch out any rivet detail, the fibre glass refills i soak in a PVA/water/washing up liquid mix then put them on pins to dry, I find this the best way to keep getting spiked from the fibres, for the big fibre glass sticks I unravel the string wrap them in masking tape then soak in the PVA mix for a long time before putting out to dry, the PVA mix works wonders for me.

Ian G

I soak mine in PVA and never have any problems either.

 

[SteveO]

So I don't glue these refills to the kitchen sink, and therefore be slung from the house by whatever is left of my ear, how do you prepare them exactly?

I'm guessing that I mix a 50-50% solution of PVA and water with a drop of Fairy in an old marg tub for an hour or so then stuck on some sort of jig with pins in and left to drip dry for a day or two?

Am I close?

 

[Ian G]

I use a bit of balsa wood with pins stuck through it, I normally do a pack of 10 at a time.

Ian G

 

[Steve Cook]

I'm a pva on fibreglass sticks man as well. I tend to half fill a small jar with the pva/water mix and just stand the sticks in that. Turn over after a day, then dry on a piece of kitchen towel the following day. Its amazing how much the sticks 'drink'

 

[Railwaymaniac]

Two thoughts to add here, after soaking the refils in the water/PVA mix . . .
1) I have a ring of brass wire, formed around a 4mm drill. I pass the refils through the ring (fixed end first) to both remove excess glue mixture and force the refil to a shape that will fit nicely in the pen attachment , and
(2) I have a piece of wood that I have drilled some 4mm dia holes into. I sit the refils upright into these holes for a while to dry out - probably about a week or so. . .

Ian

 

[SteveO]

Cheers for the advice on the fibreglass pens, really helpful. I have two more questions. I'm getting itchy feet now, and I'm really keen on getting started with the soldering.

So, first question, what do I do to ensure my tip is in good condition to start soldering? Do I switch on, wait until it's up to temp and then dip my tip into my 7mm tip tinner, then on with the solder? Or do I dip it in the tinner first, wait until it's up to temp then on with the solder? This may be such a noob question but there seems to be a lot of information about making you a better solderer but nothing about the first flick of the ON switch.

Second question, once I've got the iron on, tinned and ready, how do I solder those stanchions onto the body? Do I tack the tabs at the back (they're only on one side) or do I run the solder down the outside of both sides?

I've also bought two new solders today - a 100 deg solder and a 188. I'll use the 188 for the major body parts (stanchions, solebars, etc) and let the 145 do the finer detail work like vents, door runners, etc.

Cheers in advance.

 

[7mmMick]

Hi Steve,

For the tip tinner let the iron heat first as the tinner will just be a small amount of solder to help adhesion. With regards the stanchions and other parts do as much soldering from te back as possible. The solder, like any liquid ( with this when the work is at the right temp ) will run in a capillary action so if the stanchion is fitted, from the rear get loads of flux on and dab the iron tip in the joint. You will probably find that is enough to hold it. With the danger of repeating others use as little as possible as you only have to clean the rest off again and don't get to into every joint needs soldering as you 'll be surprised how little is needed to hold it. Try a bit and see if it's strong enough and if it is leave it, if not do more.

Lastly if you struggle with the iron get a micro flame. I bought mine on eBay for about £2.50 and it works great. For the stanchion all I would do with the flame is flux it, drop a tiny bit of solder on which is cut with a knife from the roll, drop it in the join and then warm it and watch it melt, then chase it down the join with the flame, easy. And no extra solder from the iron tip to clean up.

If this makes no sense please disregard as its easy to over think when you're dirt starting out. Looking forward to te progress,

ATB Mick

 

[SteveO]

Two more solders bought: 188 and 100 degrees of Carrs.

I'm always having ideas and distractions, which is really annoying. My latest is to build a small plank (literally a plank) with a small bit of pointwork and plain track on it to test wagons and maybe small locos. I thought to myself, "What is the most complicated piece of trackwork I'm likely to encounter on my or my club's layout?". The answer was a double-slip so I bought a used Marcway example for £30. I found a blockboard plank up in the loft and started to chisel out chunks to fit between the rafters in the loft to form a shelf at a convenient height. This is it with the slip on and all the chiselling done (on the other side). I just need to make the legs for the front to keep it secure and level.



It needs a bit of cleaning up and straightening as it arrived damaged. Once positioned, there should be enough room for a couple wagons on each of the sidings. Maybe my little Cl02 can live on one of the sidings and do a bit of shunting.

I'm working from home Thursday so I'm trying to clear the decks to finally start soldering these vans. They're looking at me saying "Well, what are you waiting for?" every time I go up there. It's unnerving.

 

[SteveO]

Home alone at last! Let the soldering begin...

 

[SteveO]

My first go at soldering, accompanied by my first burn. I feel like a pro already!

Using spare etch, Carrs 188 solder, 7mm flux and a couple blobs of Playdough, this is it. You can probably notice that the ends are not soldered, just the middle of the length, which is my fault for inadequate filing of the two parts. I'll try sweating a couple bits together plus more practice on corners tomorrow.

Overall, easier than I thought but it is a bit grubby (I didn't clean the etches at all). Obviously there's quite a bit of wastage on there but it will get better with time.