Weathered Locos & Stock

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Podartist79

Western Thunderer
71BE086E-A73B-46E1-9412-74EF372F7267.jpeg DA24D53C-D4CF-40E3-AE89-326D0CF1DF9B.jpeg I’ve posted a fair amount of my weathering work on various FB railway modelling pages, but this will be the first independently* on WT!
*Some 4mm scale weathered wagons I’ve undertaken appear in the Layout Progress section, ‘Kingswear’ thread.

The loco is a Robinson O4 built by David Andrews from his own kit and painted by John Cockcroft.
The weathering certainly won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of replicating all the filth, grime and texture in 7mm scale.
The loco is depicted on Kevin Wilson’s wonderful Bucks Hill Model Railway.
(My photo)
Neil Podbery
 
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Roger Pound

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
Brings back fond memories of work-stained 04's on the former GC main line hurrying trains of loose coupled wagons ("Wind-cutters") through the countryside.
Thank you for posting.

Roger
 
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Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Tom Insole said:
Stunning models. I sometimes wish we could see a few engines in preservation get that same "look" to show the younger generation what the real working loco's would have looked like!
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I think the Great Central did it with their 8f a few years back. Looked great.

And to add to that, there is a no-clean order on the bodywork for L92, as it lives out its last days before overhaul.

JB.
 
michael mott

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Podartist79 said:
View attachment 151834 View attachment 151833 I’ve posted a fair amount of my weathering work on various FB railway modelling pages, but this will be the first independently* on WT!
*Some 4mm scale weathered wagons I’ve undertaken appear in the Layout Progress section, ‘Kingswear’ thread.

The loco is a Robinson O4 built by David Andrews from his own kit and painted by John Cockcroft.
The weathering certainly won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of replicating all the filth, grime and texture in 7mm scale.
The loco is depicted on Kevin Wilson’s wonderful Bucks Hill Model Railway.
(My photo)
Neil Podbery
Click to expand...
I had to do a double take on that first picture, originally thought it was 1:1.
Michael
 
P

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Giles said:
Absolutely superb, Neil! If ever I managed to build anything worthy enough, I should want you to weather it.
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Very kind Giles, but you certainly don’t need me to undertake any weathering for you (as much as I’d like to) your weathering, all your modelling is total inspiration!
 
P

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Easterner said:
That Bulleid looks fantastic Neil!

Are there any chances of you sharing your techniques/methods/paints/weathering powders used at?
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Thank you for the kind comment.
Many of the techniques I use are well tried and tested to be honest. I think a possible difference is my fairly minimal use of an airbrush and extensive use of artists oils (I was an oil painter in a previous working life).
Depending on the level of grime I wish to create, I mix 3 main colours; Lamp Black, Raw Umber and Mixing White to varying degrees of grey/brown and apply this to the model with different sizes of soft brush depending on the area(s) I’m covering. (I use a few other colours as well such as Cad. Orange, Burnt Umber, Cad. Yellow, Yellow Ochre, but mainly for detail areas)
If like the O4 I’m going for a very careworn finish, I tend to leave most of the mix on the surfaces but blend them with very soft brushes so it isn’t just daubed on. On a more well maintained loco/piece of stock I will remove most of the grime with soft cloths, cotton buds and micro brushes leaving the dirt in areas it naturally gravitates to.
The great thing with oils as well is they take a fair time to dry, so for grittier textured areas I will add weathering powders onto/into the drying oils which also has the benefit of making them adhere firmly to the surface.
(I will also use weathering powders like powder paints and mix them with water/thinners to add further variations)
The other benefit of the oils I use is they tend to have a mild satin sheen to them which can be extremely useful when creating an oily rag look, or areas where the ‘original paint’ shows through. However, where I don’t wish this effect to be, I will blow over with a super Matt varnish, or a thin/fine dirty enamel mix in the airbrush.
Any final blending/toning down I feel is necessary I undertake by airbrush, but, as explained, this is usually quite a minimal amount.
The biggest piece of advice I can give, regardless of technique, is to study photographs of the real thing and reproduce what you see - easier said than done I admit.
Hope this is helpful.
Neil.
 
P

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
The next piece of weathering I completed was a superb Lee Marsh GWR Single, with the lining correction beautifully undertaken by Ian Rathbone.
Arguably it took more time to do than the O4 I posted earlier in the thread!
The first photograph is by David Thomas and it’s a cracker. I hope it shows more clearly, than the next iPhone snap of mine, the work I put in to creating a ‘clean but in use’ loco.
The backdrop is again Kevin Wilson’s fantastic Bucks Hill model railway.32CE4CA4-AA2C-45F4-9285-3FEA7E9BD944.jpeg EB03AB7D-0CB9-4BA5-8BA7-2B5F5C7F09DB.jpeg
 
Silverystreaks

Silverystreaks

Western Thunderer
Superb work there Neil. Looking back at your WC images could you outline the paint colours and methods you use for the loco motion, wheels and tender under frame
Regards
Bob
 
P

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
Thank you Bob,
The under frame, motion and wheels I undertake in a very similar way to what I mentioned above.
Although I use a thicker layer of oils on the chassis area and remove far less than on a locomotive body for example.
The colours are all oils, mixed on a palette. I don’t use a specific amount of any of the colours; as in ‘one part this, two parts that’. I do it intuitively I suppose you’d say.
The colours for this are; Raw Umber, Burnt Umber, Ivory Black and Mixing White.
Whilst these are drying I carefully apply weathering powders - my preference is the MIG range of rust and dirt colours.
The oily sheen created is a bonus of using the oil paints as they dry with a slight sheen (the weathering powders naturally matt the paint where needed).
To create extra oily sheen, I do the usual dry brush technique, with again a mix of the colours above, excluding the white.
Hope that’s useful.
Neil.
 
SimonT

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Neil,
which brand of paint do you use? I presume you use them neat and don't add Turps/White spirit or any other thinning agent.
Simon
 
Silverystreaks

Silverystreaks

Western Thunderer
Podartist79 said:
Thank you Bob,
The under frame, motion and wheels I undertake in a very similar way to what I mentioned above.
Although I use a thicker layer of oils on the chassis area and remove far less than on a locomotive body for example.
The colours are all oils, mixed on a palette. I don’t use a specific amount of any of the colours; as in ‘one part this, two parts that’. I do it intuitively I suppose you’d say.
The colours for this are; Raw Umber, Burnt Umber, Ivory Black and Mixing White.
Whilst these are drying I carefully apply weathering powders - my preference is the MIG range of rust and dirt colours.
The oily sheen created is a bonus of using the oil paints as they dry with a slight sheen (the weathering powders naturally matt the paint where needed).
To create extra oily sheen, I do the usual dry brush technique, with again a mix of the colours above, excluding the white.
Hope that’s useful.
Neil.
Click to expand...

Thank you Neil I am most grateful. I have only gone as far as toning down the valvegear on my builds. I keep meaning to have a go but always bottle out in the end.
It is inspirational to see your work.
Regards
Bob60868 B.jpg 60051 WT copy.jpg
 
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