Weathered Locos & Stock

[LarryG]

One of my favourite touches is the relatively clean boiler barrel ring nearest the smoke box, and then the other part of the boiler has been left untouched and grimy - including the safety valve cover. I guess the cleaner(s) at the time felt it too much effort to reach, although they did manage to wipe the side of the firebox!

This is pretty well how things were with BR cleaners (I was one). We used a ladder with tank locos and so the firebox sides were within easy reach to clean. There were hot things on many fireboxes (safety valves on non-GWR locos) and we avoided such areas. Reaching over the top of the things mounted on the tank tops to reach the sloping boiler was dodgy becasue one could burn oneself on the safety valve or top feed pipes. Cleaning the front ring of the boiler was done by clambering up onto the running plate so we cleaned as far as we could reach.

Paint near the cab doorway was usually damaged by footwear, but the lower area was often grotty from use of the slacker pipe while washing down the cab floor and coal dust from the coaling plant which seemed to eat into paintwork if left for any length of time. Cleaning the back of the coal bunker was often a waste of time because the paint was too damaged from track dust and what-not. Smokeboxes were painted with a different (heat-resistant) paint and could not be cleaned after even a short time in traffic. Same with running plate. If in doubt, imagine what you would do

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[Deano747]

This is pretty well how things were with BR cleaners (I was one). We used a ladder with tank locos and so the firebox sides were within easy reach to clean. There were hot things on many fireboxes (safety valves on non-GWR locos) and we avoided such areas. Reaching over the top of the things mounted on the tank tops to reach the sloping boiler was dodgy becasue one could burn oneself on the safety valve or top feed pipes. Cleaning the front ring of the boiler was done by clambering up onto the running plate so we cleaned as far as we could reach.

Paint near the cab doorway was usually damaged by footwear, but the lower area was often grotty from use of the slacker pipe while washing down the cab floor and coal dust from the coaling plant which seemed to eat into paintwork if left for any length of time. Cleaning the back of the coal bunker was often a waste of time because the paint was too damaged from track dust and what-not. Smokeboxes were painted with a different (heat-resistant) paint and could not be cleaned after even a short time in traffic. Same with running plate. If in doubt, imagine what you would do

Thanks, Larry. Some very interesting points from experience!
Everyone has their own approach to weathering. I try and look at photos of the original and try and interpret what I see.

Regards, Rob.

 

[Focalplane]

I feel quite inadequate when it comes to weathering skills. I admire others’ work and know that my experience is not up to par. And this is my problem, as a geologist I can cringe at some representations of cuttings and outcrops associated with layouts. There are some superb examples on WT, think of Stephen Fay’s dioramas along the Dawlish Teignmouth line. One of my favourites before I left RMWeb a few years ago was Tony Wright’s shallow cuttings at Little Bytham. Hardly cuttings but just a few strata of off white limestone that looked just right trackside. And perfectly represented!

With the ability to be critical about lineside geology I have managed to avoid getting into weathering though I know I am going to have to dive in the deep end one of these days. Wagons and vans are my only real attempts so far.

Larry’s comments above are so logical it amazes me. Why didn’t I think of hot areas being passed over, or damage from falling coal on an otherwise nicely cleaned top link Jubilee? Well, I learned a few things today!

 

[Podartist79]

It’s been a little while, but I’ve just completed the weathering on another couple of vehicles.
First a Dapol fuel tank wagon and second a Lee Marsh crimson GWR clerestory coach.
I subsequently added the gangway/bellows cover after these pictures were taken.

 

[James Fibbens]

Very subtle weathering on both the tank and the coach.

 

[steve50]

That weathering is just superb!

 

[michael mott]

That close up shot of the coach looks fantastic.

Michael

 

[Podartist79]

Thank you All very much, very kind.

 

[Dog Star]

All of the appreciation that Wt-ers have shown is truly justified; particularly, in my opinion, the GWR Clerestory in Lake 1912 livery.

What have you done in respect of BR diesels? Westerns and 37s for example.

 

[Podartist79]

All of the appreciation that Wt-ers have shown is truly justified; particularly, in my opinion, the GWR Clerestory in Lake 1912 livery.

What have you done in respect of BR diesels? Westerns and 37s for example.

Thank you very much for the kind comment and my apologies I’ve been so long in responding!
I’ve weathered a Heljan Western that appeared in a Model Rail article on David Thomas’s shed diorama a long while back.
I’m about to undertake the weathering on two further Heljan models; a DRS Class 37 and a large logo Class 50. I’m excited about undertaking these as being in my early forties, and although a steam enthusiast through and through, these locos are from ‘my period’.
They’ll be posted here in time.

 

[Longbow]

A very nice and reasonably priced job on a Minerva Manning Wardle by Scott at the Weathering Works.

Some of you will recognise Peter Smith's handiwork using printed overlay panels to render the lining and lettering. It's very effective and almost indistinguishable from a professional paintjob.

 

[Podartist79]

In the last couple of days, I’ve completed the weathering on this David Andrews kit built GWR 7200T.
The effects, tones and colours have all been copied directly from reference. For me doing it this way helps with my hoped for authenticity of the finished job.
Loco builder unknown
Painted by the late Graham Varley


Neil.

 

[MarkR]

Lovely, looks really authentic, I have one of these in my stash...........one day who knows it might even emerge from its box!

 

[jonte]

Another fabulous piece of work.

I particularly admire the patina of the cast iron, just visible through the grime. May I ask how this was achieved, please?

One particular method I saw used varying amounts of Pva glue, but it was far too heavy IMHO, especially on a 4mm scale model.

In the past, I’ve attempted this by gently wafting pigments onto wet enamel paint, or by mixing the desired colour with varnish and again wafting pigment onto the top, or even mixing the second mix with small quantities of pigment and stippling on the mixture.

However, like the use of masking agents such as Maskol, I think they’re best suited to 7mm scale or above lest they look a little out of scale unless caution is exercised of course, or at least I’ve found.

Many thanks for sharing.

jonte

 

[Podartist79]

Thank you Mark and Jonte, very kind.
Jonte, forgive me, I think you’re talking of the smokebox on the loco?
If so, it was a first time using Crackling Medium. I didn’t buy the model version, it’s application is actually for 12” to the 1’ as far as I can tell, for things like furniture and so forth.
The more you apply, the heavier the effect, and so, even in 7mm scale I used it very sparingly. I also didn’t just leave it once it had dried and ‘crackled’, I chipped little bits away to give that more flaky effect.
It does dry fast, but glossy also, so required a lot of matting down as well.
In the indents left I added the orange-brown of the rust colour.
I hope this helps .
Neil.

 

[jonte]

Thank you Mark and Jonte, very kind.
Jonte, forgive me, I think you’re talking of the smokebox on the loco?
If so, it was a first time using Crackling Medium. I didn’t buy the model version, it’s application is actually for 12” to the 1’ as far as I can tell, for things like furniture and so forth.
The more you apply, the heavier the effect, and so, even in 7mm scale I used it very sparingly. I also didn’t just leave it once it had dried and ‘crackled’, I chipped little bits away to give that more flaky effect.
It does dry fast, but glossy also, so required a lot of matting down as well.
In the indents left I added the orange-brown of the rust colour.
I hope this helps .
Neil.

Many thanks, Neil.

I should imagine you would have to use crackling paint rather sparingly even in this scale as you suggest, Neil, but it seems quite effective.

I’m also thinking of the patina shown above and below, as well as, on the valance/footplate in picture four above, which closely resembles the undulations on the surface of steam engines which is also very effective. Did you also complement the paint in these areas or is it just brushwork?

I hope you don’t mind my persistence

jonte

 

[Podartist79]

Many thanks, Neil.

I should imagine you would have to use crackling paint rather sparingly even in this scale as you suggest, Neil, but it seems quite effective.

I’m also thinking of the patina shown above and below, as well as, on the valance/footplate in picture four above, which closely resembles the undulations on the surface of steam engines which is also very effective. Did you also complement the paint in these areas or is it just brushwork?

I hope you don’t mind my persistence

jonte

Not at all Jonte,
The valance and footplate, everything really, is all layering/layers.
It starts with a work over of one mixed colour, some rubbed away, some not. Then I add further layers over the top of that.
I use weathering powders but also artists pastels ground down to add texture into the wet paint. Sometimes I use thinners with weathering powders to create yet another type of layer.
It’s an involved and pretty long winded process really.
Hope that’s useful Jonte.
Neil.

 

[LarryG]

Truly authentic weathering even to the texture. Now then, you said the late Graham Varley. This came as a shock as I had no idea. We worked together for a number of years with me doing the painting. He sold me a brand new Kern lining pen, which I was glad off considering the age of mine.

 

[jonte]

Not at all Jonte,
The valance and footplate, everything really, is all layering/layers.
It starts with a work over of one mixed colour, some rubbed away, some not. Then I add further layers over the top of that.
I use weathering powders but also artists pastels ground down to add texture into the wet paint. Sometimes I use thinners with weathering powders to create yet another type of layer.
It’s an involved and pretty long winded process really.
Hope that’s useful Jonte.
Neil.

Many thanks once again, Neil, for sharing.

Your protracted process has definitely paid dividends.

Best,

jonte

 

[Podartist79]

Truly authentic weathering even to the texture. Now then, you said the late Graham Varley. This came as a shock as I had no idea. We worked together for a number of years with me doing the painting. He sold me a brand new Kern lining pen, which I was glad off considering the age of mine.

Sorry that you’ve found out this way Larry.
he passed away in the Spring this year.
I only met him once - lovely and highly skilled chap - but I’ve weathered numerous locos he’d built and painted.