What rail do you use?

[paratom]

I had a conversation with DCC Concepts at the Bristol show last weekend and they were advocating the use of stainless steel rail as apposed to nickel silver. Their argument was that it looked more realistic, it didn’t oxidise and the rail kept cleaner. The only disadvantage I can see in it is the soldering aspect and maybe having to silver solder the crossing vee. I’m not bothered by the extra cost but like to know if the benefits outweigh the disadvantages. Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Stephen Freeman]

Soldering is harder but not too difficult (silver soldering is not needed), the main problem I find with it is its maleablilty. It bends very easily and is hard to cut, forget trying to use Cutters, best bet is either a cutting disc or piercing saw. Personally I'd put up with the difficulties for the enhanced appearance.

 

[Paul Tomlinson]

I bought some of the DCC Concepts "Legacy" s/s rail for the improved appearance, but found that it wasn't held securely by (PECO) EM gauge track bases. I came to the conclusion that the web must have been thinner than the PECO code 75 rail. Some experimentation may be necessary.

 

[Stephen Freeman]

I bought some of the DCC Concepts "Legacy" s/s rail for the improved appearance, but found that it wasn't held securely by (PECO) EM gauge track bases. I came to the conclusion that the web must have been thinner than the PECO code 75 rail. Some experimentation may be necessary.

I think you will find that the rail fits individual Exactoscale chairs well enough, probably mainly down to the fact that yet again PECO bullhead isn't quite Bullhead in section. In fact as I understand it, most Bullhead has a thicker web than prototype, Peco must be a little thicker than most. I believe that dimensions of at least some of the various rail types have been mentioned on Templot Group as it is a critical dimension in the production of 3D printed chairs.

I think that some varieties of Exactoscale Fasttrack are still available if that helps. I see that EMGS have some in all 3 gauges. Scalefour just have them in P4 and 00

 

[Paul Tomlinson]

I think you will find that the rail fits individual Exactoscale chairs well enough, probably mainly down to the fact that yet again PECO bullhead isn't quite Bullhead in section. In fact as I understand it, most Bullhead has a thicker web than prototype, Peco must be a little thicker than most. I believe that dimensions of at least some of the various rail types have been mentioned on Templot Group as it is a critical dimension in the production of 3D printed chairs.

I think that some varieties of Exactoscale Fasttrack are still available if that helps. I see that EMGS have some in all 3 gauges. Scalefour just have them in P4 and 00

Thanks, Stephen, that's valuable info. re. the fit of individual Exactoscale chairs, and (in my case) a useful pointer to the Exactoscale Fasttrack option, if only to use the 3 packs of s/s rail I have gathering dust. I just thought I'd mention my difficulties in case they were of use. Since my post I've had the recollection that Pete Waterman used s/s rail on his "Making Tracks" exhibition layout, but I've failed to find where I read this?

 

[Mike W]

I know Gauge 3 is completely different, but we use stainless steel rail outdoors partly because it expands less than brass (or I assume Nickel). That may or may not be an issue for you.

My distant memory bank recalls something about steel and iron wheels gripping better on a non-steel rail, but that's way beyond my field of knowledge and may not be important anyway.

Mike

 

[John TAYLOR]

Nickel for me......

C&L




Peco bullhead rail



All cleaned once a year and lightly rubbed with graphite which seriously improved electrical conductivity.........

 

[simond]

I too use nickel, although some years back, Martyn @3 LINK & I discussed the possible merits of using steel. We both live near the coast, and I think we both chickened out. I’m not sure it matters much as I guess the rail will be painted anyway.

There was an article in the MERG mag IIRC which suggested that NS rail really does not benefit from abrasive cleaning, it simply creates more oxide to clean off. I have cleaned my track with a Peco track rubber from time to time, but tend to use beard trimmer oil, on a rag.

I had a pal whose use of graphite is legendary in these parts. To the extent that even light engine, locos struggled with traction…

 

[Phil O]

I use SMP phospher bronze, it looks rusty before you even touch it and I have found that it needs less cleaning, than N/S.

 

[Tim Watson]

Does this count? Fortunately, no one has told our locos that they shouldn’t be able to pull long trains on brass ‘rail’.

Tim

 

[Herb Garden]

although some years back, Martyn @3 LINK & I discussed the possible merits of using steel. We both live near the coast, and I think we both chickened out.

For some reason I was foolish and built my first handmade track using steel rail ..... Yeah looks lovely easy to work with..... But....





Rusty!!!!!

Don't judge my track making too harshly.... It was a first attempt and although the 3 way point was rather unreliable the slip worked surprisingly well... Even though it was common practice or offer up a prayer before crossing it from top left to bottom right

I've now gone over to nickel silver