Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Steph, thank you for providing info on wiring for DCC - you just knew that there would be more questions, did not you!
regards, Graham
Please try to make the answer understandable to a silly old bear(e).To answer your questions:
1. Pass. I'll look it up - they're not tricky or even critical in their component selection.
Got that... arrange for the snub stubs to be at the outer ends of each power bus. What happens if we then need to test just (say) the middle of three boards and for which there are no snub stubs?To answer your questions:
3. Again, it's not. If you think/plan every layout as an end-to end then the snubbers (if required) go on the ends of each/the bus.
My intention was to use 1mm diameter copper stripped from twin and earth. What current can that carry? What diameter copper cable is needed for 10A plus contingency?In general there's no great difference between 'analogue' and DCC wiring. The issue is merely how well you do it. The main thing to remember is that under DCC there's the potential for some very high currents to be winging their way around your layout; using 5A rated cable is an absolute minimum. Even then Richard's using a 10A booster, so should be using something rated at least 20% over that (i.e. 12A rated). Same for any/all sockets and switches.
I know what you are talking about here... just do not understand what you mean about "having them switched from the track supply (also switched)", a diagram might help here.If you've got the points controlled through the DCC it's worth having them switched from the track supply (also switched). That way, should you end up with a short-circuit across a point (we've all driven into a 'closed' point haven't we?) you can switch out the track supply, change the point and restore the track supply with most people remaining completely unaware of what's happened.
My immediate reaction was balan/unbalan... and then thought, silly old bear(e), this is an AC circuit. Twisted pair is a sure recipe for a short if I use bare copper wires!!!! If I use 15A rated twin, multistrand, cable then I can strip the outer insulation and wind the two insulated wires to create a twisted pair (others might think that this discussion could only be between a twisted pair of modellers). A power bus created as a twisted pair is going to be a pain in the proverbial with droppers every 21cms (30' prototype rail length) - removing the insulation from a twisted pair, keeping the un-insulated wires apart and then making the feed joints looks like a mind-numbing activity.One other quick thing to mention is that running all the buses as twisted pair is highly recommended. If you do this, there's a chance you won't need the snubbers as they'll do a great deal to reject any interference.
regards, Graham