1/32 Workbench

[Simon]

That's looking good, My D6319 is built rigid (I bought it as a complete and working loco) and works fine but when I get on to D6315 I want to build in some movement as you are here.

One question, what kind of fit are your ball races on the Mark Wood axles, I am intrigued as to how you are going to assemble it all and how easily would it all come apart if the need arose?

Actually, I would really appreciate a simpleton's guide to ball races and how and where you can use them, the likely differences in performance out on the line, where to get them and ideas of costs etc.

I'm thinking 1/32 but I guess there wouldn't be much difference between 7mm and 1/32 in terms of practicalities.

When you've got a moment

Simon

PS Would make a good "article" for my modelling web pages too,,,,

 

[28ten]

www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning
The fit on Mark Wood axles is ok, an easy push fit rather then tight, I use them on axles because I think they run smoother and last better in the long term, probably not a good idea on split axles though.
Yes it will all come apart easily, it is really dead simple.....and I will make the etch available to discerning enthusiasts
An email from Fred tells me that the works plates and some etched valancing is on its way.

 

[Simon]

....and some etched valancing is on its way.

There's posh......

Thanks for the info Cynric, I think I'll give them a go on D6315.

Right, I'm getting off this lap top to try and finish some check rails - good night!

Simon

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Guv,

that's some flywheel in the last picture - approved by the 1/32nd brigade no doubt

cheers

Mike

 

[Steph Dale]

www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning

Cynric,

They've been out of stock for a while so good to see they've got them back and yes I'm also a frequent user of the bearing/supplier you quote. Just a thunk, but in 1/32 the larger FR166zz may be a slightly better bet. I recently bought some from Arc Euro Trade (actually SFR166zz - so stainless steel) and again they arrived a day or two after ordering. They were £2.50 each for a much larger, corrosion resistant, harder -wearing bearing.

In terms of ideals I'd be looking to source SFR156zz bearings for 0-gauge and although I've found some, the high unit cost (around £4.50 ea!) or high volume necessary to get the cost down (around 1000 units) means I'm only ordering the odd one or two for particular applications (gearboxes mainly)

Incidentally, in imperial/US bearing specs:
S = Stainless Steel
F = Flanged
R = Regular (standard Imperial/US size)
###= codified size of inner/outer/width
zz = metal shielded

Steph

 

[28ten]

The replacement valance arrived this morning


I shall be removing three sections of the resin so I can have the panels slightly out of alignment

 

[28ten]

I found some time while the laser was chugging away to form the tanks


Quite a complicated shape to form but with the right tools it isnt too tricky

 

[Jordan]

The replacement valance arrived this morning
View attachment 7863

I shall be removing three sections of the resin so I can have the panels slightly out of alignment

Do they come ready-formed? I had to make a rudimentary tool to bend the SB ones with for my 22; IIRC Mr Dockerill used plasticard instead....
Etched valances are the way to go, though, as not only did some get left off, the ones still fitted got bent and distorted as well....

 

[Phill Dyson]

Will you be leaving some of the valance off ?

 

[28ten]

Yes they are ready formed , All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works

 

[Simon]

Yes they are ready formed , All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works
View attachment 7902

That looks terrific, it has lost the "slightly too perfect" lines and edges of the raw work.

I look forward to buying Cynrickits buildings

Simon

 

[Ressaldar]

very good Guv.

cheers

Mike

 

[Dan Randall]

I look forward to buying Cynrickits buildings

Nice one Simon.

Nice work with the brickwork too Cynric.


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

I shall try another test tonight, but I will mix some MIG into the pollyfilla to tone it down a little

 

[28ten]

A new mortar mix - mdf is the way to go for bricks as it can be peeled quite nicely. some drybrushing and pigments later tonight

 

[Jordan]

Now that is looking impressive...

 

[JimG]

A new mortar mix - mdf is the way to go for bricks as it can be peeled quite nicely. some drybrushing and pigments later tonight

Cynric,

That does look excellent - particularly the roughish finish to the mortar which looks just right.

Jim.

 

[iploffy]

I am not going to say what has been said before, Excellent!!!! I like the chipped bricks on the corner are you going to attempt spalded bricks on the face itself'

Ian

I would add that it looks like the retaining walls of Birmingham New Street

 

[Ressaldar]

particularly like the spalling brickwork, will you be going for 'gold' and trying to get an efflorescence effect as well?

cheers

Mike

 

[28ten]

Mike I had to look that up but yes I will, along with a couple of spalled bricks. mitring the corners is certainly worth the effort and a better router table is a project for the weekend....
I must exercise a degree of restraint and not throw every trick at the wall !
I'm not sure pollyfilla would work in smaller scales, emulsion paint might be better,but t would loose the advantages of a dry mix