1/32 Workbench

Simon

Flying Squad
That's looking good, My D6319 is built rigid (I bought it as a complete and working loco) and works fine but when:rolleyes: I get on to D6315 I want to build in some movement as you are here.

One question, what kind of fit are your ball races on the Mark Wood axles, I am intrigued as to how you are going to assemble it all and how easily would it all come apart if the need arose?

Actually, I would really appreciate a simpleton's guide to ball races and how and where you can use them, the likely differences in performance out on the line, where to get them and ideas of costs etc.

I'm thinking 1/32 but I guess there wouldn't be much difference between 7mm and 1/32 in terms of practicalities.

When you've got a moment:p

Simon

PS Would make a good "article" for my modelling web pages too,,,,
 

28ten

Guv'nor
www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning :)
The fit on Mark Wood axles is ok, an easy push fit rather then tight, I use them on axles because I think they run smoother and last better in the long term, probably not a good idea on split axles though.
Yes it will all come apart easily, it is really dead simple.....and I will make the etch available to discerning enthusiasts :))
An email from Fred tells me that the works plates and some etched valancing is on its way.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
....and some etched valancing is on its way.

There's posh......

Thanks for the info Cynric, I think I'll give them a go on D6315.

Right, I'm getting off this lap top to try and finish some check rails - good night!

Simon
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning :)

Cynric,

They've been out of stock for a while so good to see they've got them back and yes I'm also a frequent user of the bearing/supplier you quote. Just a thunk, but in 1/32 the larger FR166zz may be a slightly better bet. I recently bought some from Arc Euro Trade (actually SFR166zz - so stainless steel) and again they arrived a day or two after ordering. They were £2.50 each for a much larger, corrosion resistant, harder -wearing bearing.

In terms of ideals I'd be looking to source SFR156zz bearings for 0-gauge and although I've found some, the high unit cost (around £4.50 ea!) or high volume necessary to get the cost down (around 1000 units) means I'm only ordering the odd one or two for particular applications (gearboxes mainly)

Incidentally, in imperial/US bearing specs:
S = Stainless Steel
F = Flanged
R = Regular (standard Imperial/US size)
###= codified size of inner/outer/width
zz = metal shielded

Steph
 

28ten

Guv'nor
The replacement valance arrived this morning
IMG_4341.JPG

I shall be removing three sections of the resin so I can have the panels slightly out of alignment
 

28ten

Guv'nor
I found some time while the laser was chugging away to form the tanks
IMG_4344.JPG

Quite a complicated shape to form but with the right tools it isnt too tricky
IMG_4345.JPG
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
The replacement valance arrived this morning
View attachment 7863

I shall be removing three sections of the resin so I can have the panels slightly out of alignment
Do they come ready-formed? I had to make a rudimentary tool to bend the SB ones with for my 22; IIRC Mr Dockerill used plasticard instead....
Etched valances are the way to go, though, as not only did some get left off, the ones still fitted got bent and distorted as well.... ;)
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Yes they are ready formed :thumbs:, All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places :))

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works
IMG_4363.JPG
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Yes they are ready formed :thumbs:, All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places :))

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works
View attachment 7902

That looks terrific, it has lost the "slightly too perfect" lines and edges of the raw work.

I look forward to buying Cynrickits buildings:thumbs:

Simon
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
A new mortar mix - mdf is the way to go for bricks as it can be peeled quite nicely. some drybrushing and pigments later tonight

Cynric,

That does look excellent - particularly the roughish finish to the mortar which looks just right.

Jim.
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I am not going to say what has been said before, Excellent!!!! I like the chipped bricks on the corner are you going to attempt spalded bricks on the face itself'

Ian

I would add that it looks like the retaining walls of Birmingham New Street
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
particularly like the spalling brickwork, will you be going for 'gold' and trying to get an efflorescence effect as well?

cheers

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Mike I had to look that up:) but yes I will, along with a couple of spalled bricks. mitring the corners is certainly worth the effort and a better router table is a project for the weekend....
I must exercise a degree of restraint and not throw every trick at the wall !
I'm not sure pollyfilla would work in smaller scales, emulsion paint might be better,but t would loose the advantages of a dry mix
 
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