1/32 Workbench

[Mr Tiger Viking]

Hi Cynric
Very neat job of the chassis, Fred advises that this is the very complex and time consuming part of the kit, looks like you are lapping up your 1st 1/32nd challange. keep the photos coming its good to see your progress. I do like your comment earlier in this thread... There is also the enticing thought of hitching up to Freds coaches with a bit of double headed Warship action.......... Surely this is inticing industrial pornograhy!! is this allowed on this forum !!
Regards
Mr Tiger Viking

 

[28ten]

Hi Cynric
Very neat job of the chassis, Fred advises that this is the very complex and time consuming part of the kit, looks like you are lapping up your 1st 1/32nd challange. keep the photos coming its good to see your progress. I do like your comment earlier in this thread... There is also the enticing thought of hitching up to Freds coaches with a bit of double headed Warship action.......... Surely this is inticing industrial pornograhy!! is this allowed on this forum !!
Regards
Mr Tiger Viking

Steve,
Fred is making it sound much harder than it really is, probably about 3 hours work. The biggest problem I find with coaches is the repetitive nature of doing 8 compartments, 16+ windows etc. I have come to a slight halt as I want to add some springing to the bogie, but I do have the Rowmark for the partitions, I really must get back to it after I have finished mucking about with the engine shed, So little time

 

[28ten]

It has been a while, but whilst looking at some partitions for Lancer I got on with lasering the floor and the partitions the first shot shows how the partition slots into the seat, obviously I need more of them


and to make life easier I lasered some construction lines into the floor to help align the seats and corridor partitions, this shot just about shows them.


next job is to look at the corridor partition glazing...

 

[lancer1027]

That looks exellent work Cynric Those resin seats look great. Wish i could cast some like that for myself.
Look forward to the next pics

Rob

 

[28ten]

Well a slight diversion being a fully paid up member of the scattergun club and spurred on by the Dapol 63 I have dusted mine off and got the final bits of research completed



The instructions start with the body so I am doing the motor bogie.... power will come from 2 ABC diesel gearboxes and I am hoping I will get enough traction without fitting the delrin chain as I suspect it might be visible in a profile view, if it isnt then I shall be powering all four axles rather than 2.


The inner bogie supplied is an old design and Fred suggests a bit of trimming to remove the visible parts, but before doing this I am attempting to work out some form of suspension. the easiest will be a compensation beam (the final one wont be lasered in MDF!) and I might combine this with something secondary for the bolster.

 

[Simon]

Those gearboxes look very nice indeed, I guess they run as nicely as they look too.

Great to see another 1/32 ballooon going up, can't bet a bit of scattergun modelling.

All you need now are a few "goats" and you're sorted......

I'm trying to get myself motivated to work on the C10 turnout ready for Saturday, but I think I may make a pot of tea and crash out. At least I managed to finish the books and drop them off to the accountant earlier, thank goodness that job's out of the way for another year

Simon

 

[28ten]

At least I managed to finish the books and drop them off to the accountant earlier, thank goodness that job's out of the way for another year

Simon

That would be the Warship book than
Yes the gearbox is very smooth and about half the cost of the full ABC motor bogie, ill be sticking one in the DMU ..... Im sure they will be powerful enough for such a small loco, I will probably want something with a bit more reserve for the Warship.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Not sure about 1 axle driven per bogie, you could always make chain tensioner's if the chain is visible

 

[28ten]

Not sure about 1 axle driven per bogie, you could always make chain tensioner's if the chain is visible

It has worked out much better than I expected and a chain will be barely visible, so it shouldn't be a problem actually the whole arrangement has worked out pretty well.

 

[Ressaldar]

by powering only two axles, are you then getting nearer prototypical pulling power?

cheers

Mike

 

[Simon]

Seeing that whitemetal bogie sideframe takes me back...
I thought the Delrin drive would be visible on my SB Cl22.... it is, but only if you get down really low!!


*Pedant Mode <ON>*
"The Balloon Going Up" is not actually a good thing.... "When the balloon goes up" is a phrase used to imply impending trouble. This relates to the use of observation balloons in the first World War. The sight of such a balloon going up nearly always resulted in a barrage of shells following soon after. The expression was re-inforced during WW2 when the hoisting of barrage balloons was part of the preparations for an air raid.....
*Pedant Mode <OFF>*

Sorry, /got coat, left the building....

Quite so, but I was thinking more Brothers Montgolfier than Kaiser Bill

 

[Phill Dyson]

I have a stock of Roxy gearboxes to use up, but I will get those ABC's next time ( they look the buisines )

 

[28ten]

£105 a pop Phill!! but they are very good

 

[D816Foxhound]

Well a slight diversion being a fully paid up member of the scattergun club and spurred on by the Dapol 63 I have dusted mine off and got the final bits of research completed

View attachment 7846

The instructions start with the body so I am doing the motor bogie.... power will come from 2 ABC diesel gearboxes and I am hoping I will get enough traction without fitting the delrin chain as I suspect it might be visible in a profile view, if it isnt then I shall be powering all four axles rather than 2.
View attachment 7845

The inner bogie supplied is an old design and Fred suggests a bit of trimming to remove the visible parts, but before doing this I am attempting to work out some form of suspension. the easiest will be a compensation beam (the final one wont be lasered in MDF!) and I might combine this with something secondary for the bolster.
View attachment 7844

Cynric, it will be interesting to see what you make up for the suspension.
I didn't use Fred's method for the suspension as I found it was too firm. In the end I left it out, making all axles fixed and made sure that all axles and in the inner bogie box were square. I haven't had any running problems with this set up so far.

Roger

 

[28ten]

Cynric, it will be interesting to see what you make up for the suspension.
I didn't use Fred's method for the suspension as I found it was too firm. In the end I left it out, making all axles fixed and made sure that all axles and in the inner bogie box were square. I haven't had any running problems with this set up so far.

Roger

Sprung bolster with piano wire and compensated bogie. if I had really thought ahead I could have used split axles, but i didn't and Im not attacking a turned sat of Mark Wood wheels

 

[28ten]

Somehow the workbench always seems to lead to the computer ......


I need to check the folds and make adjustments, but it should go off by the weekend

 

[28ten]

Whilst cutting some bits for Old Buffer, I wacked the dxf for the etch into the laser cutter just so I could check a couple of clearances - just as well as I had miscalculated the cutout for the gearbox. the beam will probably be on the inside , but it doesn't matter either way as it is all hidden. I shall be using flanged ballraces because I prefer them.



A small amount will also need to be removed from the front sides (shown by the black triangles)


Finally checking the bolster springing with my sophisticated jig im not looking for a massive amount of movement just a little controlled shock absorption.

 

[Simon]

That's looking good, My D6319 is built rigid (I bought it as a complete and working loco) and works fine but when I get on to D6315 I want to build in some movement as you are here.

One question, what kind of fit are your ball races on the Mark Wood axles, I am intrigued as to how you are going to assemble it all and how easily would it all come apart if the need arose?

Actually, I would really appreciate a simpleton's guide to ball races and how and where you can use them, the likely differences in performance out on the line, where to get them and ideas of costs etc.

I'm thinking 1/32 but I guess there wouldn't be much difference between 7mm and 1/32 in terms of practicalities.

When you've got a moment

Simon

PS Would make a good "article" for my modelling web pages too,,,,

 

[28ten]

www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning
The fit on Mark Wood axles is ok, an easy push fit rather then tight, I use them on axles because I think they run smoother and last better in the long term, probably not a good idea on split axles though.
Yes it will all come apart easily, it is really dead simple.....and I will make the etch available to discerning enthusiasts
An email from Fred tells me that the works plates and some etched valancing is on its way.

 

[Simon]

....and some etched valancing is on its way.

There's posh......

Thanks for the info Cynric, I think I'll give them a go on D6315.

Right, I'm getting off this lap top to try and finish some check rails - good night!

Simon